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Question ‘97 Itasca Spirit No Crank No Start

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Rubiks Mind

RVF Regular
Joined
Apr 10, 2023
Messages
9
Location
Southern Central Wisconsin
RV Year
1997
RV Make
Itasca
RV Model
329RQ
RV Length
“29
Chassis
Ford
Engine
V10 Trition
Fulltimer
No
Ayo! So I received an RV. Found out it doesn’t start or crank. Upon ignition key turn, I hear a loud singular click sound. Tested the battery(11.72v steady without key turn)
I figured starter. So I replaced the starter. Same issue. Starter is also reading the same voltage.

I also tried using my Aux Start Switch to get it kicking, but to no avail.

Question: I read somewhere that it could be a solenoid or even the safety interlock switch prohibiting the unit from starting, and figured I would check the brake light switch and brake light fuse to see if it’s something like that, but I have no owners manual or anything of that nature.

Although I have found an e-version of the owners manual online, but it doesn’t carry some of the model specific info, like fuse diagrams.

I figured I’d get this post up to try getting as many suggestions as possible while I try to narrow it down myself as well.
Please, any help would be greatly appreciated.
Such as solenoid locations on my model, or fuse diagrams, maybe where the brake light switch is located.. anything that it could be or what my next step is in diagnosing the problem.
Thanks guys!

Update: So I have got a new battery. (Reading 12.74v on open circuit)
I just tried jumping the starter by wiring the top posts together (due to having only one person) and I definitely heard the starter turning making a whirring sound but no crank. Almost like the teeth of the starter aren’t clicking into the flywheel.
Upon research I found that means the solenoid isn’t engaging with the flywheel, or it’s a wiring problem. I’ll post a picture of my starter wiring to see if that helps.

Further Update:
So I called the tech support number that was listed on my new starter, and he told me that since Im already bridging the starter, and it’s whirring, and since the solenoid is still not engaging through the solenoid lead that I should try also bridging the solenoid post itself to the other two posts. So I did that and it would still just whirring.

So out of frustration I decided to remove the battery and remove the starter entirely, and I decided to try jumping them completely apart from the vehicle to see if I could engage the solenoid.

With alligator clips I was able to wire them directly to each other attaching the clips exactly where the vehicles wires would go on the starter. The result was that I could get the starter to spin or the solenoid to engage when power was supplied to either one, but I could not do both. When I bridged all of the starter/solenoid posts to each other as the tech guy suggested there was no reaction.

Sidenote: I decided to check for giggles, ya know, and my old starter did the exact same thing :/ whirring the starter or engaging the solenoid but not both, leaving me to believe that my old starter is as in working condition as the new one.

I’m currently inside for the night to ponder and learn more, but as I write this I’m kind of wondering if maybe the reason I didn’t get a duo reaction is because I used alligator test clips.. so I couldn’t get the power I need for both to kick over through the thinner wire.. which is also leading me to believe the reason I can’t get the solenoid to engage while installed in the vehicle is because there is a fault somewhere in the solenoid post lead wire leading from the solenoid to the battery.
The wire was built for such things, so I’m assuming there is a fuse or relay along the way? Where is it?

Question: Is it the thing that’s right next to the battery that also somewhat looks like a solenoid?
 

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11.72V is your open circuit voltage, it's likely dropping below 3V with just the current draw of the starter solenoid when the key is turned, the starter motor would turn over very slowly if at all even if it wasn't trying to spin the engine. It's new battery time and likely the old starter was fine.
 
11.72V is your open circuit voltage, it's likely dropping below 3V with just the current draw of the starter solenoid when the key is turned, the starter motor would turn over very slowly if at all even if it wasn't trying to spin the engine. It's new battery time and likely the old starter was fine.
Just put in a new battery. Same issue. Single click. New battery reads 12.74v as an open circuit.
 
I wish you were closer, this doesn't sound like a terribly complicated diagnosis but becomes exponentially more difficult (at leat for me) trying to guess the next best thing to check. This is usually where I'd short the starting solenoid, with the key turned to "run" and see if it will crank and hopefully start & run. That would eliminate other potential electrical gremlins keeping it from doing what it needs to do.
 
I wish you were closer, this doesn't sound like a terribly complicated diagnosis but becomes exponentially more difficult (at leat for me) trying to guess the next best thing to check. This is usually where I'd short the starting solenoid, with the key turned to "run" and see if it will crank and hopefully start & run. That would eliminate other potential electrical gremlins keeping it from doing what it needs to do.
Right! Lmao. I’ll try that next. I read that somewhere as well. Keep in mind with all tests I have only my hands available, so I’m gonna wire in the solenoid short.

But my only doubt for that working is that the starter I replaced and the starter I replaced it with have the solenoid on top of the starter, so wouldn’t the new starter also have a new solenoid?
 
Ayo! So I received an RV. Found out it doesn’t start or crank. Upon ignition key turn, I hear a loud singular click sound. Tested the battery(11.72v steady without key turn)
I figured starter. So I replaced the starter. Same issue. Starter is also reading the same voltage.

I also tried using my Aux Start Switch to get it kicking, but to no avail.

I read somewhere that it could be a solenoid or even the safety interlock switch prohibiting the unit from starting, and figured I would check the brake light switch and brake light fuse to see if it’s something like that, but I have no owners manual or anything of that nature.

Although I have found an e-version of the owners manual online, but it doesn’t Carib some of the model specific info, like fuse diagrams.

I figured I’d get this post up to try getting as many suggestions as possible while I try to narrow down myself as well.
Please any help would be greatly appreciated.
Such as solenoid locations on my model, or fuse diagrams, maybe where the brake light switch is located.. anything that it could be or what my next step is in diagnosing the problem.
Thanks guys!
I wish you were closer, this doesn't sound like a terribly complicated diagnosis but becomes exponentially more difficult (at leat for me) trying to guess the next best thing to check. This is usually where I'd short the starting solenoid, with the key turned to "run" and see if it will crank and hopefully start & run. That would eliminate other potential electrical gremlins keeping it from doing what it needs to do.
I just tried jumping the starter by wiring the top posts together (due to having only one person) and I definitely heard the starter turning, or at least something started turning fast, but no crank. Almost like the teeth of the starter aren’t clicking in the right place..
When I turned the ignition key while the turning sound was apparent the single click sound was the result.
 
So I called the tech support number that was listed on my new starter, and he told me that since Im already bridging the starter, and it’s whirring, and since the solenoid is still not engaging through the solenoid lead that I should try also bridging the solenoid post itself to the other two posts. So I did that and it would still just whirring.

So out of frustration I decided to remove the battery and remove the starter entirely, and I decided to try jumping them completely apart from the vehicle to see if I could engage the solenoid.

With alligator clips I was able to wire them directly to each other attaching the clips exactly where the vehicles wires would go on the starter. The result was that I could get the starter to spin or the solenoid to engage when power was supplied to either one, but I could not do both. When I bridged the all the starter/solenoid posts to each other as the tech guy suggested there was no reaction.

Sidenote: my old starter did the exact same thing :/ whirring the starter or engaging the solenoid but not both, leaving me to believe that my old starter is just as in working condition as the new one.

I’m currently inside for the night to ponder and learn more. But as I write this I’m kind of wondering if maybe the reason I didn’t get duo reaction is because I used alligator test clips.. so I couldn’t get the power I need for both to kick over through the thinner wire.. which is also leading me to believe the reason I can’t get the solenoid to engage while installed in the vehicle is because there is a fault somewhere from the wire leading from it to the battery is faulty.
The wire was built for such a thing, so I’m assuming there is a fuse or relay along the way? Where is it?
 

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