Problem 1995 Fleetwood no start/power

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Bluewolf115

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1995 Fleetwood bounder flair. Just got it and first motorhome. Started fine and drove home over 100 miles. Next day, turned key and just got a click. So without knowing anything about the auxiliary start button, I hooked up battery charger. Flipped it to high amperage engine start and tried to start. I got nothing, not even a click. Tried charging battery and tried 2 different chargers. Both said that the battery is charged fully. Checked to make sure cables were tight and they are. Found out about auxiliary start and tried it, nothing. Checked all fuses under hood and under instrument panel, all good. I'm getting power to the solenoids but not fuse box under instrument panel. So I'm thinking there's something between the solenoid and fuse box that I blew when I hit the high amp engine start on the charger. Does anyone know what to look for or what it might be. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

TJ&LadyDi

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Welcome to RVF, @Bluewolf115; glad to have you here, but sorry it is under these circumstances. I’m not familiar with that particular coach’s electrical layout, but it sounds like you are talking about the chassis battery/batteries. Not sure if you have one or two chassis batteries. How old are those batteries? If over 5 years old, it sounds like the battery/batteries may have failed. Just because they are showing some voltage doesn’t mean they are good.

The first thing I would do is to have the batteries “load tested.” By putting the batteries under a known load, their true condition can be determined.

If the batteries are good, then you may have a starter or starter solenoid that has failed. Are you familiar with how to manually shorty a solenoid to see if the starter turns the engine over? If not, this is NOT the time to earn. It will be “find a qualified RV mechanic time.”

Dood luck.

TJ
 

Bluewolf115

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Batteries are fine after all it started several times the day before. Have 1 battery for engine start. The problem is current from batteries to solenoids is fine. But from there to the chassis fuses, horn, ignition, radio, etc. There's no power to the fuse box for all that. Turn key and nothing. No power reaching fuses which in turn means no power to ignition switch.
 

NWIP

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Have you found a fuse/relay box in the front of the coach on driver’s side inside the engine compartment?
 

Kevin D Pem

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Ford, Chevy? Look for the starter relay. Take a pair of pliers and jumper between the two large lugs. If it cranks that is the problem if the key connection or key is not the problem.
 

Bluewolf115

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Chevy, and yes already tried that in the beginning of trying to find the problem. Like I have started, I have power to the solenoid. The problem is NO power to the fuse box under the dash. Without power to the fuse box then the ignition won't work. The fuse box has no power. Batteries are fine. Power everywhere else but fuse box. No radio, heater motor, horn, etc. Because of no power to fuses. Something between the fuse box and battery power is blown. The power wire for the fuse box is dead. Is there a fusible link on this wire? Where does this wire come in to contact with the battery? At the solenoids?
 

Kevin D Pem

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Chevy, and yes already tried that in the beginning of trying to find the problem. Like I have started, I have power to the solenoid. The problem is NO power to the fuse box under the dash. Without power to the fuse box then the ignition won't work. The fuse box has no power. Batteries are fine. Power everywhere else but fuse box. No radio, heater motor, horn, etc. Because of no power to fuses. Something between the fuse box and battery power is blown. The power wire for the fuse box is dead. Is there a fusible link on this wire? Where does this wire come in to contact with the battery? At the solenoids?
Most of the time. Most fusible links are close to the battery. If it is blown look for bare wire before you replace it. Don't worry about finding fusible link. replace it with an inline fuse.
 

Bluewolf115

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Nothing but battery cable all the way up to the solenoid. Solenoids have power. No power to fuse box under the dash
 

"EZ"

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Seems to me if you have power to the solenoid but no power after the solenoid that the solenoid is your problem.
 

RandyB

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Your thought process about a possible fusible link is down the right path. There must be another wire or 2 coming off the positive post of the battery. It (they) could be directly at the post clamp of the battery, or they could be attached at the other end of the battery cable going to the solenoid, bolted onto the solenoid along with the battery cable. It is that wire(s) that needs to be tracked down. Somehow, 12 volts must come out of the battery and get to the circuitry feeding everything else, like the fuse box.

In past years a fusible link is not very prominent. It only appears as a cylindrical object about 1/2 to 3/4" in diameter and about 1 or 1-1/2" long, in-line with a wire of about 12 gauge in size. Typically, they are quite close to the battery post. This knowledge comes from the auto industry. What the RV makers do is nearly impossible to guess. Tracing or following the wiring is the only way to find out, with a voltmeter or test light in hand.
 

Bluewolf115

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Your thought process about a possible fusible link is down the right path. There must be another wire or 2 coming off the positive post of the battery. It (they) could be directly at the post clamp of the battery, or they could be attached at the other end of the battery cable going to the solenoid, bolted onto the solenoid along with the battery cable. It is that wire(s) that needs to be tracked down. Somehow, 12 volts must come out of the battery and get to the circuitry feeding everything else, like the fuse box.

In past years a fusible link is not very prominent. It only appears as a cylindrical object about 1/2 to 3/4" in diameter and about 1 or 1-1/2" long, in-line with a wire of about 12 gauge in size. Typically, they are quite close to the battery post. This knowledge comes from the auto industry. What the RV makers do is nearly impossible to guess. Tracing or following the wiring is the only way to find out, with a voltmeter or test light in hand.
I'm thinking that the positive wire for fuse box goes to the solenoid. Have power to solenoid so everything is good from battery to solenoid. Not getting power from there to fuse box so there has to be something in that wire
 

Kevin D Pem

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Told you I just woke up. If you turn the key and the dash does not light up with anything look for a fusible link. If the dash lights up there is power to the key. The chassis provided to the RV company is from the auto industry and yes the same applies to your RV. like @"EZ" stated above if the solenoid has power to one side you should be able to use a cable or anything metal to jumper to the other side of the solenoid and have the starter crank. You are just bypassing the solenoid. If still no crank the starter is likely the problem.
 

Kevin D Pem

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I'm thinking that the positive wire for fuse box goes to the solenoid. Have power to solenoid so everything is good from battery to solenoid. Not getting power from there to fuse box so there has to be something in that wire
The power to the fuse block comes from the battery, not the solenoid.
 

Bluewolf115

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I have only 2 heavy battery cables coming from the battery. Wire to power fuse box is a heavy gauge but not even close to battery cable size
 

Kevin D Pem

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I have only 2 heavy battery cables coming from the battery. Wire to power fuse box is a heavy gauge but not even close to battery cable size
Yah! about a 10AWG. that goes to the fuse block or alt. the other goes to the starter circuit.
 

Kevin D Pem

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most likely the 10 is split someplace or to a terminal post/fuse.
 

Gronk

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I have only 2 heavy battery cables coming from the battery. Wire to power fuse box is a heavy gauge but not even close to battery cable size
That wire should have something like a fusible link right where it hooks to power. IF it does, see if the wire stretches. Stretch = bad, no stretch = good.
 
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