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2000 Adventurer Coleman Mach Heat Pump/Basement air AND LP furnace issues, EMS issues

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Bubbie

RVF Newbee
Joined
Jun 27, 2021
Messages
1
Hey all,
Shocking. A NOOB PNW RV'er who procrastinates and waits until we get this record heat to REALLY try and diagnose/troubleshoot/repair my 2 stage basement AC/heat pump. I think there's a handful of contributing issues due to one specific instance...information below. Any help/insight/advice would be much appreciated.
Apologies in regards to being all over the place and providing tons of (seemingly random but detailed) info, just trying to cover all of what I've experienced to aid in remedy.

Details:
-2000 Winnebago Adventurer 35u
-RVP 6535-871 2 stage heat pump/ AC
-30 AMP shore power (w/ adapter from 50AMP house plug)

I'll start with what I believe to have originally started all of this.

IDK exactly what happened...but while running the heat pump in a cold winter, we may have over loaded AMPS and tripped an AC circuit breaker. We also lost ALL shore power at this time. After checking and resetting breakers with no change we discovered the 50to30A adapter had burnt up on female side.

Replaced adapter. Shore power restored.

After that issue, the heat pump failed to work. Regardless of what temp thermostat was set to, no click from thermostat, no start up of heat pump etc.

We quickly resorted to switching to LP gas heat. When thermostat was switched to LP, also no change. No click of thermostat, no turning on of fan blower, no igniting of gas furnace ETC.

After trial and error/troubleshooting, I discovered that If I turned AC circuit 1 breaker off, the gas furnace worked as it should. Thermostat would be adjusted as needed and heater worked as should. We lived like this for the rest of winter, with AC circuit 1 off.

Admittedly didn't think much of this issue until now. Wondering if the AC would work, I began testing. With all appliances/lights/fans off and/or switched to LP, I switched thermostat to cool fan on high.

Fan immediately comes on, thermostat clicks and amps spike to approx 30amp for startup. It immediately settles down as (I assume) compressor 1 starts and amps drop to roughly high teens/early twenties.
Amps slowly increase to high twenties and into 30 as I assume compressor #2 engages and starts.

This only happens and unit runs for approximately 1 minute before over amping (into low 30s) and shutting off or simply/quickly just shutting off. And by shutting off, I mean just shutting down. No breakers (AC circuit 1 or AC circuit 2) are tripped.
I have discovered that there is a red rubber "reset button" that is tripped in the control board area at this time and that needs to be reset before another attempt can be made.

Some additional details, curiosities -
-Basement unit Fan (ONLY) runs well in both high and low and uses about 4AMPS.
-Tried to use our ONAN 5000W generator and same thing happened above, however AMPS never made it above 28/29 before AC unit shut down.
-VERY little to no cold air is seemingly blowing during what little time I Assume compressor one is working before shut down.

EMS Powerline by Intellitec seems suspect as well.
-LED indicator lights for Water heater and AC Compressor / FAN are always illuminated and do not turn off when WH breaker or AC circuit breakers are flipped. I have confirmed there to be no Electric WH power to WH when breaker is flipped, however again, LED indicator is still present on EMS.

My initial thoughts given all of these issues between both EMS and AC/Heat operations is something to do with our Convertor OR our AC/Heat circuit board.

I've NOT checked Caps, relays, etc, but will. LED lights on circuit board appear to be working as should.

I have some electrical knowledge and tools and am willing to try most anything...and have too much pride/ ego and not enough $$$ to call a tech for diagnosis at this time.


Perhaps someone may shed some light?

Please LMK and LMK if I need to provide any more info etc!

Thank you!

Riley in Tacoma
 
Last edited:
It sounds to me like you may have a failed motor on at least one compressor. Can you just select one compressor or does it always start both in sequence? If you can start and run one at a time, you may be able to see which one is the problem.

The fact that you burned up a 50A-to-30A adapter tells me that you had a serious overload. You already knew that. Are you sure both compressors can run off 30A. I would seriously doubt it. Each should probably hit 20A+ on startup and run at 14A-15A. If you have anything else running (refrigerator, water heater, battery charger, inverter, etc.) you will be well beyond 30A.

One final thing; be VERY careful working around motor starting capacitors; even a “bad” one can store a lethal charge of electricity!

TJ
 
Hey all,
Shocking. A NOOB PNW RV'er who procrastinates and waits until we get this record heat to REALLY try and diagnose/troubleshoot/repair my 2 stage basement AC/heat pump. I think there's a handful of contributing issues due to one specific instance...information below. Any help/insight/advice would be much appreciated.
Apologies in regards to being all over the place and providing tons of (seemingly random but detailed) info, just trying to cover all of what I've experienced to aid in remedy.

Details:
-2000 Winnebago Adventurer 35u
-RVP 6535-871 2 stage heat pump/ AC
-30 AMP shore power (w/ adapter from 50AMP house plug)

I'll start with what I believe to have originally started all of this.

IDK exactly what happened...but while running the heat pump in a cold winter, we may have over loaded AMPS and tripped an AC circuit breaker. We also lost ALL shore power at this time. After checking and resetting breakers with no change we discovered the 50to30A adapter had burnt up on female side.

Replaced adapter. Shore power restored.

After that issue, the heat pump failed to work. Regardless of what temp thermostat was set to, no click from thermostat, no start up of heat pump etc.

We quickly resorted to switching to LP gas heat. When thermostat was switched to LP, also no change. No click of thermostat, no turning on of fan blower, no igniting of gas furnace ETC.

After trial and error/troubleshooting, I discovered that If I turned AC circuit 1 breaker off, the gas furnace worked as it should. Thermostat would be adjusted as needed and heater worked as should. We lived like this for the rest of winter, with AC circuit 1 off.

Admittedly didn't think much of this issue until now. Wondering if the AC would work, I began testing. With all appliances/lights/fans off and/or switched to LP, I switched thermostat to cool fan on high.

Fan immediately comes on, thermostat clicks and amps spike to approx 30amp for startup. It immediately settles down as (I assume) compressor 1 starts and amps drop to roughly high teens/early twenties.
Amps slowly increase to high twenties and into 30 as I assume compressor #2 engages and starts.

This only happens and unit runs for approximately 1 minute before over amping (into low 30s) and shutting off or simply/quickly just shutting off. And by shutting off, I mean just shutting down. No breakers (AC circuit 1 or AC circuit 2) are tripped.
I have discovered that there is a red rubber "reset button" that is tripped in the control board area at this time and that needs to be reset before another attempt can be made.

Some additional details, curiosities -
-Basement unit Fan (ONLY) runs well in both high and low and uses about 4AMPS.
-Tried to use our ONAN 5000W generator and same thing happened above, however AMPS never made it above 28/29 before AC unit shut down.
-VERY little to no cold air is seemingly blowing during what little time I Assume compressor one is working before shut down.

EMS Powerline by Intellitec seems suspect as well.
-LED indicator lights for Water heater and AC Compressor / FAN are always illuminated and do not turn off when WH breaker or AC circuit breakers are flipped. I have confirmed there to be no Electric WH power to WH when breaker is flipped, however again, LED indicator is still present on EMS.

My initial thoughts given all of these issues between both EMS and AC/Heat operations is something to do with our Convertor OR our AC/Heat circuit board.

I've NOT checked Caps, relays, etc, but will. LED lights on circuit board appear to be working as should.

I have some electrical knowledge and tools and am willing to try most anything...and have too much pride/ ego and not enough $$$ to call a tech for diagnosis at this time.


Perhaps someone may shed some light?

Please LMK and LMK if I need to provide any more info etc!

Thank you!

Riley in Tacoma
Wow bummer
The very best investment for shore power safety is a Hughes Autoformer.!!!
It’s a no brainer sorry !!!
When the Mach starts up it draws 50-70 amp for a couple mil sec !!!!!
All rvs start hard as F
I have installed two Micro-Air easy starts
On it. Works fantastic!!!!! Runs on generator
No problems
Get both end your power worry
Hughes Autoformer surge protector AND voltage booster!!!!
Micro-Air Easy Start two! For the basement air
 

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