Air Conditioner Repair

[Bob K4TAX]

We have a 2016 Forest River Wildwood XL, 253RLXL. Purchased it used and all have worked well. Just checked for our Fall run and discovered the AC was not cold. The fan runs, the compressor runs but no cold air. Checked currents, fan current = 2.6 amps, compressor current = 6.8 amps. The compressor current is too low. Should be 10 to 11 amps. Removed the cover, eliminated the wasp nests, cleaned out the leaves and a good visual inspection shows no leaks or oil spots visible.

Contacted the local Dealer and was told the only solution is to replace the unit. The estimated cost for a 13.5K BTU and installation was about $1200 to $1400. Must be replaced as it is as a "sealed" system.

Spoke with my local Air Conditioning tech. He said HA HA HA! Just add a line tap for about $10, and about 1 lb of R410a refrigerant for about $50. The total cost of him doing the job including parts, material, labor, and trip to the house was $125. He could find no leaks with his leak test equipment. Unit now blows cold air with a 20+ degree differential.

So don't let them tell you "oh you have to replace it because it is a sealed unit".

Bob

 

[Gronk]

If it was low then there must be a leak somewhere. I have put taps on many AC/refridge units. Simple and easy to do! BTW, you can also find used AC units for a few hundred dollars. Four screws inside and a few wires is all there is.

 

[Kevin D Pem]

I know where to get a used one for free just take it off.

 

[Bob K4TAX]

If it was low then there must be a leak somewhere. I have put taps on many AC/refridge units. Simple and easy to do! BTW, you can also find used AC units for a few hundred dollars. Four screws inside and a few wires is all there is.

Agreed on the leak. However the unit is a 2015 model, per the date code on the compressor, thus it has taken ~5 years to leak down. Unless there has been a catastrophic failure while the trailer is here at the house. I've noticed over the Summer the compressor current has been decreasing, indicative of being low on refrigerant. The normal current draw is about 2.7 amps for the fan and about 10 amps for the compressor or a total of ~13 amps. It peaks at about 16 amps only during compressor startup. Of course, the compressor running current will be somewhat impacted by the air temperature.

I have added a digital voltmeter and digital ammeter to my power distribution panel for both the AC and DC sources. Kinda nice to look down and see why the lamps are dim or the pump is running slow. Another easy do-it-yourself project with a cost of about $35 for parts.

If one should choose to make these modifications, be sure to get LED display units and not LCD display units. The LCD unit must be viewed from below the unit. Thus laying on the floor to read the display is not desirable. <grin>

 

[Bob K4TAX]

I know where to get a used one for free just take it off.

But driving 1000 miles each way {2000/16 MPG =125 gals x $3.00/gal = $375 + meals + lodging} nah, I'll buy a new one and have it installed for that. But thanks anyway.

 

[Kevin D Pem]

But driving 1000 miles each way {2000/16 MPG =125 gals x $3.00/gal = $375 + meals + lodging} nah, I'll buy a new one and have it installed for that. But thanks anyway.

LOL didn't think you would but it was fun thinking someone might get it off for me.