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Atwood Voltage Low from board

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Cncdean

RVF Regular
Joined
Dec 15, 2021
Messages
6
Most recently I ran into a problem with my Atwood 8525 IV furnace.
Some history is that I bought it and the furnace wasn’t working but the old owners replaced the igniter board with an original Atwood/dometic, I’m pretty sure. Doesn’t look like a dinosaur.
I put in a new igniter and it worked fine but the blower would squeal.
I used it for a month and one morning it stopped igniting. The air from the vents felt low.
So since I was eventually going to do it anyway, I bought a new blower motor and installed it. It still wouldn’t stay lit.
What it was doing is igniting and then lighting for about 3 seconds and going out.
I bought a new tank regulator because the site glass to indicate if the tanks were full wasn’t working. I thought maybe if that was faulty then it might be related.
Once it continued to happen I decided to check the orifice. It was clogged with a bunch of particles. I cleaned them out and activated the solenoids to open the valves and I sprayed some office air from a can through it.
After that it started up and ran for maybe 10 seconds and would die.
I checked the voltage going in the board at the blue wire and got 13.55v. It’s plugged into ground power.
Once the blower starts, the voltage at the board and from the board to the blower drops to 11.5v.
Does anyone know why there would be this voltage drop? It seems weird that the voltage coming into the board would drop as soon as there’s draw on the line.
Is this a thermostat thing? But I do have a brand new mechanical therm from dometic that was recently put in because the old one was very inaccurate and sporadic.
Thanks for the help.
 
Update:
So I guess this is my mistake.
When it wouldn’t stay lit before I knew that the gas valve was clogged, I ordered a new igniter/flame sensor. I just put it in when I cleaned the orifice.
It looked like it was a 1/4” from the burner so I didn’t Bend it closer.
What I realized is that it was staying lit for the same amount of time as the Igniter was clicking. 7 seconds.
So I pulled it out and bent the igniter closer to the burner and it started working properly.

I’m still unsure why there’s a voltage drop at the board.
 
Voltage drop is either there is a corroded connection, too small of wire, or a dirty ground connection (well, possibly a board issue too). Not much causes it, but it can be a real bugger to locate. As you found out, 1/8" is the propper gap for a spark rod. Just an FYI, if/when it starts not staying lit clean the spark rod even if it looks fine.
 

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