(dumb) question about winterizing

[shug23]

I live in an area where it rarely gets below freezing for more than a day or two. I am wondering about anti-freeze. I have three drains...the kitchen sink, the bathroom sink, the shower, and then i have the toilet. What would be the danger with he following : Drain all tanks (grey and black and water heater). Open the valves to drain the pipes. Keep them open and pour anti-freeze into each sink and shower until you see anti-freeze coming out through the open valves underneath the RV. Once you know the antifreeze has gone thru each sink and shower, then close up the drain valves. Por some antifreeze into the toilet and black tank.

What is missed vs, using the pump and sucking the antifreeze into the piping ? Thanks

 

[Gronk]

Nothing is missed, but you don't need to worry about the empty black and grey tanks freezing.What is in there will freeze, but since it is such a small amount it won't hurt anything. You only need a cup or so of antifreeze in each trap.

 

[shug23]

I am thinking what I described is ok, but I am wondering why on you=tube they have the more complicated process of blowing out the piping with air and then sucking up the anti-freeze using the city water connection and pump. I did it the more labor intensive way last year, but am thinking I'm ok with going the much simpler route

 

[MemoriesByTheMile]

Pouring antifreeze down drains does not protect your water supply, only the waste system.

Blowing air through the supply lines may not get ALL the water out. This small amount of water can slowly drain back to low spots and freeze. On top of just the water supply lines themselves and the faucets/shower heads and water valve, some RVs will have other appliances attached which need water freeze protection: washing machine, dishwasher, residential fridge with ice maker, hot water heater, etc

 

[Gronk]

I had one trailer that I could blow the lines out and put antifreeze in the traps in about 10 minutes. Worked great for that trailer. This tralier I have only takes me dragging it south to warmer weather to winterize!

 

[Bob K4TAX]

I dump the freshwater tank and close the valve. Connect my air compressor at 40PSI to the freshwater/city connection { adapter required} and open the low point drains. This blows out a lot of water. Continue to do so until you only have air coming out. Pull the anode rod out of the water heater and allow it to drain. Put it back in as it normally resides. Don't leave it out as critters will likely take up residence inside. Open the faucets and allow the water to blow out. Add a cup of RV antifreeze to each drain, sink, lav, and shower. Make sure to blow the line to the toilet as well. There won't be enough water remaining in the lines to cause any issues. Close all the valves and low point drains and allow the air compressor to fill the lines and system to 40PSI. Disconnect the compressor from the city water connection. Next Spring you should still have 40PSI or so in the system and it is ready to fill for camping. If you don't have air pressure next Spring, you have a leak in the system..........somewhere.

 

[shug23]

need some help please. I have drained the water tank and have opened all the low point valves ( three of them). I ahve then closed them all. I attached a hose to the city water intake along with bypassing the hot water tank. I have put the other end of the hose into the RV anti-freezer gallon. My hose is about 5 feet long. Then when I put the pump on, I hear a noise and can feel a vibration, but it is not sucking up the anti-freeze into the line. I have three settings 1) winterize/sanitize 2) city fill and 3) city fixtures.....It seems like I need to somehow prime the pump maybe ? SHould I use a funnel and pour the antifreeze in ? please advise

 

[Bob K4TAX]

need some help please. I have drained the water tank and have opened all the low point valves ( three of them). I ahve then closed them all. I attached a hose to the city water intake along with bypassing the hot water tank. I have put the other end of the hose into the RV anti-freezer gallon. My hose is about 5 feet long. Then when I put the pump on, I hear a noise and can feel a vibration, but it is not sucking up the anti-freeze into the line. I have three settings 1) winterize/sanitize 2) city fill and 3) city fixtures.....It seems like I need to somehow prime the pump maybe ? SHould I use a funnel and pour the antifreeze in ? please advise

The onboard pump does not pump from the city water intake. It will only pump from the onboard fresh water tank. The city water intake operates from the pressurized city water source. {Just like your house.}

I suggest opening the low point drains and opening all the faucets inside to allow the water to drain out. Operate the valve on the toilet to allow water to drain from that line. Remove the water heater anode rod and drain the water heater. You indicated you've already drained the freshwater tank. Be sure to close that valve to keep critters out. Now close the low point drains. I don't use RV antifreeze in the freshwater system. It is a pain in the b......tt to get out of the system when getting ready for the next use. I don't care what the advertisements say. I do pour about 2 cups of RV antifreeze in each drain.

If you really want to get the water out of the lines, as I have done, I made an adapter to connect my air compressor, setting at 40 PSI, to the city water inlet. Do not have the onboard pump ON. Open the low point drains along with all faucets. Allow the compressor to blow air through the lines and fixtures for 5 to 10 minutes. The system will sputter and hiss. This is normal. Then close everything inside and then the low point drains last. Disconnect the compressor from the city water inlet last, thus leaving about 40 psi air in the lines. DO NOT exceed 40 psi!!!!! More is not better!

Then add about 2 cups of RV antifreeze to each drain, sink, shower, and lavatory.

You are now ready to fill the freshwater tank for the next trip.

 

[shug23]

The onboard pump does not pump from the city water intake. It will only pump from the onboard fresh water tank. The city water intake operates from the pressurized city water source. {Just like your house.}

I suggest opening the low point drains and opening all the faucets inside to allow the water to drain out. Operate the valve on the toilet to allow water to drain from that line. Remove the water heater anode rod and drain the water heater. You indicated you've already drained the freshwater tank. Be sure to close that valve to keep critters out. Now close the low point drains. I don't use RV antifreeze in the freshwater system. It is a pain in the b......tt to get out of the system when getting ready for the next use. I don't care what the advertisements say. I do pour about 2 cups of RV antifreeze in each drain.

If you really want to get the water out of the lines, as I have done, I made an adapter to connect my air compressor, setting at 40 PSI, to the city water inlet. Do not have the onboard pump ON. Open the low point drains along with all faucets. Allow the compressor to blow air through the lines and fixtures for 5 to 10 minutes. The system will sputter and hiss. This is normal. Then close everything inside and then the low point drains last. Disconnect the compressor from the city water inlet last, thus leaving about 40 psi air in the lines. DO NOT exceed 40 psi!!!!! More is not better!

Then add about 2 cups of RV antifreeze to each drain, sink, shower, and lavatory.

You are now ready to fill the freshwater tank for the next trip.

thanks; all good on water I have a few questions on batteries..I currently have the RV hooked up to my house and the batteries are float charging. I have a switch on the RV which apparently disconnects the batteries. I am wondering if I should switch the switch and unplug the RV from the house, or just let them continue to float charge all winter.. If I throw the switch to disconnect the batteries and unplug the RV, will the batteries retain their charge or should I also disconnect the positive terminal. On the other hand, If I leave the batteries on float charging instead, will I need to keep an eye on the water level ? Any opinions will be appreciated. I am leaning toward leaving the RV plugged into the house

 

[kayakterp]

I've read that a lot of people keep their RV plugged in over the winter. If you unplug your RV be careful when you turn your battery dis-connect off it may still draw parasitic draws from the battery if you don't remove it...like the co2 detecter, microwave clock, etc.
On another note, I have a separate hose on my water pump specifically designed for antifreeze - I just need to turn a valve at the pump to get it to work.