First Timer - Winterize Question

[LambdaChi385]

All,

I am a first time travel trailer owner, and I could use some help. Surprisingly enough, I can't find a YouTube link or a How-To site to save my life....

We purchased a 2020 Coachmen Freedom Express Liberty Edition - Model: 310BHDSLE - in June 2020. It's time for me to winterize this sucker and my owner's manual is about as useless as a screen door on a submarine...

Can anyone walk me through the steps or post a link?


Thanks in advance!!

 

[TJ&LadyDi]

Welcome to RVF, @LambdaChi385; glad to have you here.

As you have found, most RV "owner's manuals" are useless. Sad, but true.

I don't know of any links to winterizing procedures specific to your RV, but can walk you through a general process. Some of this will depend on the area of the country, whether relatively mild winter temperatures (mid-20s and up) frequent sub-freezing overnight temperatures or extended day and night sub-freezing weather.

First, you should plan on storing your travel trailer in a location where you will have reliable access to at least 15A of 120 VAC electric power (20A is better). That way, you can keep the RV batteries charged and have at least some minimal indoor heat.

If there's a chance that indoor temperatures could get below freezing, you need to remove things like canned food, bottled and canned drinks, and other items that can freeze. If they do freeze--and, the container bursts--you will have a mess!

Then, you need to completely freeze-proof the RV water system. This means draining the freshwater tank, along with gray and black tanks, and water heater tank. If your RV has "low-point drains," they should be opened and allowed to drain completely. Once drained, shut off the low-point drain valves. And, be sure to turn off the electric water heater element at the lockout switch in the heater compartment before draining or you could destroy it if the circuit is turned on with no water in the tank.

Finally, you will need to protect the water supply and drain lines as well. That means either blowing all the water out of them with compressed air or using RV antifreeze to displace any water in the lines.

Using anti-freeze is probably the most popular and simplest method, but requires thorough flushing out before the next RV use. Most RVs have a connection point with a hose that is inserted in the antifreeze container and the electric water pump is used to push the antifreeze through the system. Most RVs also have a bypass valve system for the water heater tank, allowing you to close off the piping to the WH tank itself and avoid filling it with antifreeze.

Now, you pump antifreeze through the system, opening each faucet and valve (including the toilet flush valve) until a steady stream of the pink fluid flows out. Start with the faucet/valve furthest from the water pump and work your way back. When all water supply lines have been filled with antifreeze, you still have one more area to winterize; the drains. Pour 2-3 cups of antifreeze in each drain to ensure that they don't freeze and burst.

Using the compressed air method works similarly, replacing water in the lines with air. You need a compressor and a special fitting to connect a compressed air hose to the RV water inlet. Limit the compressor to not more than 50 PSI; 35-40 PSI is plenty, Again, bypass the water heater and then pressurize the system with air. Open each faucet/valve until the water is expelled and it is blowing air. I prefer to do each faucet/valve twice, repeating the first sequence again to be sure all the water is out. And, don't forget to use antifreeze in the drains; that still needs to be done.

Good luck.

TJ

 

[rc320]

I have owned several types of Rv's over the last 30 or so years. I have also lived in a very Temperate Climate and a pretty cold New Mexico at about 5200'. I have always just blown the lines and put a little extra antifreeze (RV type) down the drains. Use your Water Heater by pass during this process.

To get all the water out of your lines use a "good" air compressor, preferably a contractor type. Set it for about 40 lbs pressure and get connection hardware for your City Water hookup. Let the compressor come up to top and shut off. Turn any valves on the water hookup marked "City or Internal" to City. Start at one faucet and open it until you are getting just air from the compressor and go to the next one and do the same. When you no longer get a spray (air only) when you open a faucet, your lines are empty. Open any "Low Point" drains and drain all internal tanks. Remove the Water Heater Drain Plug and open the bypass. When this procedure is complete I always leave all faucets open about half way so the faucet washers do not stick. Don't forget the water pump, too many possibilities to describe here but make sure it is empty.

I have used this method because I do not like to use the gallons and gallons of water to flush antifreeze and taste out of the lines. I also like to camp in the Winter time and this system makes it easy to start the system.

 

[NWIP]

When I lived in NY I had to winterize and did exactly what @rc320 posted.

 

[MrsOlney]

I shared this post last year. Hopefully it helps!

How To Winterize a Coachmen RV

I found a great article with step by step instructions on how to winterize a Coachmen. I am sure that this info could apply to any TT or RV really, but because it specifies Coachmen, I am posting it here. I'm not affiliated with the people who wrote this article...

rvforums.com

 

[Gronk]

I have owned several types of Rv's over the last 30 or so years. I have also lived in a very Temperate Climate and a pretty cold New Mexico at about 5200'. I have always just blown the lines and put a little extra antifreeze (RV type) down the drains. Use your Water Heater by pass during this process.

To get all the water out of your lines use a "good" air compressor, preferably a contractor type. Set it for about 40 lbs pressure and get connection hardware for your City Water hookup. Let the compressor come up to top and shut off. Turn any valves on the water hookup marked "City or Internal" to City. Start at one faucet and open it until you are getting just air from the compressor and go to the next one and do the same. When you no longer get a spray (air only) when you open a faucet, your lines are empty. Open any "Low Point" drains and drain all internal tanks. Remove the Water Heater Drain Plug and open the bypass. When this procedure is complete I always leave all faucets open about half way so the faucet washers do not stick. Don't forget the water pump, too many possibilities to describe here but make sure it is empty.

I have used this method because I do not like to use the gallons and gallons of water to flush antifreeze and taste out of the lines. I also like to camp in the Winter time and this system makes it easy to start the system.

That was the way I winterized my last fiver. The instructions with the trailer said to also run the pump dry for about 30 seconds to clear water from the pump. It would take me all of about 15 minutes to winterize and never had an issue. The way I winterize now is to head south when it gets cool up north!!