Need advice about steep driveway and Class C

[Caroljv123]

We are newbies, I researched buying our first RV for 8 months. We pulled the trigger on a 2021 Jayco Greyhawk Prestige 31FP (bunkhouse model). Delivery not expected until
March/April 2021. I tried to be completely comprehensive. But totally forgot about the length of the wheelbase and our STEEP driveway. The dealer was too far away to have driven it to our home anyway. NOT driving it up to our house is a deal killer. I have to be able to park the rig in front of my house. Does anyone know of a work around in CASE it will not go up the driveway without dragging? It is looking unlikely that it will not scrape ?. We are renting one January 9th to test it but with tax that will be costing us over $400.00 JUST for ONE night! ? I saw somewhere about “air bags”??? What is that?! We know about rampsBut I understand they rarely work. We are of course considering Class A’s but are coming against the same problem with the wheel base length. I really want THIS rig and do not want to downsize to a tiny Class C unless I absolutely have to. So does anyone know of anything that works?? We still are in a window where we can order something else from the dealer but I don’t want to unless I have exhausted all other options. My window for finding a solution is small because once Jayco starts my order - that rig is mine.

 

[TJ&LadyDi]

Without seeing photos of your driveway with the coach headed up it, we're all going to be guessing here. There are caster-type roller wheels that might help. They would be attached to the drag bars or rear frame extensions.

Usually, some 2x12 boards placed in just the right places will help lift the rear of a coach a little. Without having the coach actually on the driveway, there's no way to really know how much lift you might need.

Can the driveway be reconfigured a bit to minimize the slope at all?

It usually isn't "wheelbase" that is the problem, it is overhang behind the rear axle. You might look for a coach with less overhang if the one you have selected is a problem.

TJ

 

[AbdRahim]

The easiest way is to get a 12 foot piece of wood, 1x2, 2x 4 etc. Lay the wood so that the end lines up with the end of the driveway. The wood should be perpendicular to the ground - that is the width of the board, so as to avoid flexing the board. Lift the end of the wood until it is level. You can use a bubble level on top of the wood to measure this. When the wood is level, measure the height of the end of the wood off of the ground. Compare this with the ground clearance at the back of your motorhome. The overhang on my C was nine feet. So by this method, I could tell where the back would be when the tire met the end of the driveway. My driveway allowed for the overhang. When I calculated and measured for my Class A (12 ft overhang from center of rear tire to end of bumper, 19.5 in from the ground at the bumper), I found the driveway would allow for a 14 ft overhang. Plenty of room.
I went to the dealer and took these measurements on a similar unit several times to insure accuracy.
That being said, I found that I have to back in, otherwise the front levelers hit, and it may also bottom out at the back bumper.

You can double check with the formula (A squared + B squared = C squared) where C is your driveway, A is the distance between your hitch guard and the ground, or your hitch and the ground, and B is your overhang (distance along the ground, from the center of your rear tire to the end of your hitch or back bumper)., and b is

These will give you a good approximation of how close you are cutting it.

I also bought heavy duty rollers which I installed on the hitch bar for the places I went that could bottom out. I think I got them fro E-Trailer or Amazon.

I hope that points you in the right direction.

 

[Caroljv123]

Tomorrow I could take pictures to share. We looked into Loadlifters 5000 Ultimate — the factory happens to be here in Lansing, MI where we live. I’m going to give them a call tomorrow. They just may be what could do the trick. I am literally losing sleep over this...We will be considering ramps and boards as well. I will post photos tomorrow! Thanks!

 

[Caroljv123]

The easiest way is to get a 12 foot piece of wood, 1x2, 2x 4 etc. Lay the wood so that the end lines up with the end of the driveway. The wood should be perpendicular to the ground - that is the width of the board, so as to avoid flexing the board. Lift the end of the wood until it is level. You can use a bubble level on top of the wood to measure this. When the wood is level, measure the height of the end of the wood off of the ground. Compare this with the ground clearance at the back of your motorhome. The overhang on my C was nine feet. So by this method, I could tell where the back would be when the tire met the end of the driveway. My driveway allowed for the overhang. When I calculated and measured for my Class A (12 ft overhang from center of rear tire to end of bumper, 19.5 in from the ground at the bumper), I found the driveway would allow for a 14 ft overhang. Plenty of room.
I went to the dealer and took these measurements on a similar unit several times to insure accuracy.
That being said, I found that I have to back in, otherwise the front levelers hit, and it may also bottom out at the back bumper.

You can double check with the formula (A squared + B squared = C squared) where C is your driveway, A is the distance between your hitch guard and the ground, or your hitch and the ground, and B is your overhang (distance along the ground, from the center of your rear tire to the end of your hitch or back bumper)., and b is

These will give you a good approximation of how close you are cutting it.

I also bought heavy duty rollers which I installed on the hitch bar for the places I went that could bottom out. I think I got them fro E-Trailer or Amazon.

I hope that points you in the right direction.

My husband said thank you very much. He read and reread this. We will definitely try this as well AbdRahim! Thank you!

 

[Caroljv123]

The easiest way is to get a 12 foot piece of wood, 1x2, 2x 4 etc. Lay the wood so that the end lines up with the end of the driveway. The wood should be perpendicular to the ground - that is the width of the board, so as to avoid flexing the board. Lift the end of the wood until it is level. You can use a bubble level on top of the wood to measure this. When the wood is level, measure the height of the end of the wood off of the ground. Compare this with the ground clearance at the back of your motorhome. The overhang on my C was nine feet. So by this method, I could tell where the back would be when the tire met the end of the driveway. My driveway allowed for the overhang. When I calculated and measured for my Class A (12 ft overhang from center of rear tire to end of bumper, 19.5 in from the ground at the bumper), I found the driveway would allow for a 14 ft overhang. Plenty of room.
I went to the dealer and took these measurements on a similar unit several times to insure accuracy.
That being said, I found that I have to back in, otherwise the front levelers hit, and it may also bottom out at the back bumper.

You can double check with the formula (A squared + B squared = C squared) where C is your driveway, A is the distance between your hitch guard and the ground, or your hitch and the ground, and B is your overhang (distance along the ground, from the center of your rear tire to the end of your hitch or back bumper)., and b is

These will give you a good approximation of how close you are cutting it.

I also bought heavy duty rollers which I installed on the hitch bar for the places I went that could bottom out. I think I got them fro E-Trailer or Amazon.

I hope that points you in the right direction.

So after your advice, we found a local company that manufactures and installs RV air bags, in addition we will install RV rollers AND do as you instructed with the wood— my husband already went to Home Depot. I think we will solve our problem. We are going to go ahead and rent the exact model RV we have on order as planned and see if by some chance it clears anyway. But if not, given all that you told us, plus the heavy duty rollers you also suggested and air bags I am confident we will get the RV up the driveway. Thank you for such detailed help! My husband said your explanation really did the trick!

 

[Scooterfan]

I have a very steep driveway and our 32 foot Class A has a hitch that will kiss the pavement IF I try and get a run at the hill. What I found is if I just gently approach the hill and let the big motor and low gears do ALL the work it won't touch. It does prohibit me from using a hitch carrier however. It would be nice to have that option to carry wood, etc. I cannot imagine your driveway is much steeper than ours, so with all you are planning, you should be fine. The caster(s) or skid plate under the hitch (standard?) will come in handy not just at your house but in your travels as well. (Gas station driveways, RV park drainage dips, etc. can all cause us to drag a little ) Good Luck

 

[docj]

We are newbies, I researched buying our first RV for 8 months. We pulled the trigger on a 2021 Jayco Greyhawk Prestige 31FP (bunkhouse model). Delivery not expected until
March/April 2021. I tried to be completely comprehensive. But totally forgot about the length of the wheelbase and our STEEP driveway. The dealer was too far away to have driven it to our home anyway. NOT driving it up to our house is a deal killer. I have to be able to park the rig in front of my house. Does anyone know of a work around in CASE it will not go up the driveway without dragging? It is looking unlikely that it will not scrape ?. We are renting one January 9th to test it but with tax that will be costing us over $400.00 JUST for ONE night! ? I saw somewhere about “air bags”??? What is that?! We know about rampsBut I understand they rarely work. We are of course considering Class A’s but are coming against the same problem with the wheel base length. I really want THIS rig and do not want to downsize to a tiny Class C unless I absolutely have to. So does anyone know of anything that works?? We still are in a window where we can order something else from the dealer but I don’t want to unless I have exhausted all other options. My window for finding a solution is small because once Jayco starts my order - that rig is mine

We had such a situation at our last home before we went full-timing. We had a 27' Class B+ (a Coach House) and we managed to rip of the little caster wheels! in our case we were able to get up the driveway (100' rise from street to house) but it wasn't easy and we had difficulty turning around at the top. One time I tried going up backwards but that overheated the transmission! Good luck!

 

[Calsun]

We are newbies, I researched buying our first RV for 8 months. We pulled the trigger on a 2021 Jayco Greyhawk Prestige 31FP (bunkhouse model). Delivery not expected until
March/April 2021. I tried to be completely comprehensive. But totally forgot about the length of the wheelbase and our STEEP driveway. The dealer was too far away to have driven it to our home anyway. NOT driving it up to our house is a deal killer. I have to be able to park the rig in front of my house. Does anyone know of a work around in CASE it will not go up the driveway without dragging? It is looking unlikely that it will not scrape ?. We are renting one January 9th to test it but with tax that will be costing us over $400.00 JUST for ONE night! ? I saw somewhere about “air bags”??? What is that?! We know about rampsBut I understand they rarely work. We are of course considering Class A’s but are coming against the same problem with the wheel base length. I really want THIS rig and do not want to downsize to a tiny Class C unless I absolutely have to. So does anyone know of anything that works?? We still are in a window where we can order something else from the dealer but I don’t want to unless I have exhausted all other options. My window for finding a solution is small because once Jayco starts my order - that rig is mine.

We recently bought a 25' Navion and I knew that with its lack of ground clearance that it would never make it up our driveway. I found a RV storage place about 10 minutes from the house and pay $200 a month to keep it there. Only a Class B motorhome would fit and that is not what we wanted this time around.

 

[Caroljv123]

we rented a similar RV-just a few years older and it made it up and down without any problems. We are in the clear!