Question OASIS Hydronic heating underperforming with electric elements?

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Neal

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Are these wires documented with images (before they burn up) in some post?
I'm not aware of one but ITR is good, you can call them (fastest) and ask them to email it to you. Good customer support and responsive by phone. 800-993-4402
 

Neal

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redbaron

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Glycol based heat transfer fluids (aka: boiler fluid) do deteriorate over time. I did a google search, and every result was a paywall, but the cache data suggested 3-5 years was the typical useful life.
 

turbopilot

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Glycol based heat transfer fluids (aka: boiler fluid) do deteriorate over time. I did a google search, and every result was a paywall, but the cache data suggested 3-5 years was the typical useful life.
I have not seen any change in operation using the boiler for hot water and heat, just hot water using only one AC circuit. When the coach was new during normal summer months one AC circuit on would cover normal hot water usage. Now it does not. May argue against glycol fluid as the issue.
 

Neal

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I agree, I thought the same as burner is fine. I just don't know if it's throwing 50K BTU's at the heat transfer fluid vs 5K/element is the cause.
 

redbaron

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I have not seen any change in operation using the boiler for hot water and heat, just hot water using only one AC circuit. When the coach was new during normal summer months one AC circuit on would cover normal hot water usage. Now it does not. May argue against glycol fluid as the issue.
Yes, that would argue against boiler fluid.

Another test point would be amp draw. Pay attention to the AMP load before you turn on the burner, and then see how it changes with 1 burner then 2.

A shorted or bad heating element will be "open", and therefore amp load will not increase. Same will be true if the wire became disconnected (aka: burned up).

A properly running electric heating element will be 10-13 amps of usage. Test with 1 element, and then test with 2. Make sure each climb up in usage.

**BEFORE DOING THE FOLLOWING - TURN OF ALL AC & DC POWER TO THE COACH**
For more detailed testing, open the cover and expose the electrical ends of the heating elements. Disconnect both wires so there is no circuit to the heating element. Then with a multimeter test the resistance between the 2 connectors. Properly working should be in the range of 10-30 ohms.
 

Neal

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Yep, have verified per this thread where I learned that I had one side out (probably for a long time). With both sides verified drawing amps (11'ish per side) I still had the concerns as posted but I was in Montana and maybe it was ground water temps. I need to verify again and continue to monitor this situation as I don't have confidence in the electric heating elements.

 

turbopilot

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Yes, that would argue against boiler fluid.

Another test point would be amp draw. Pay attention to the AMP load before you turn on the burner, and then see how it changes with 1 burner then 2.

A shorted or bad heating element will be "open", and therefore amp load will not increase. Same will be true if the wire became disconnected (aka: burned up).

A properly running electric heating element will be 10-13 amps of usage. Test with 1 element, and then test with 2. Make sure each climb up in usage.

**BEFORE DOING THE FOLLOWING - TURN OF ALL AC & DC POWER TO THE COACH**
For more detailed testing, open the cover and expose the electrical ends of the heating elements. Disconnect both wires so there is no circuit to the heating element. Then with a multimeter test the resistance between the 2 connectors. Properly working should be in the range of 10-30 ohms.
I have not opened the cover yet but did check the amp draw previously. Both elements are drawing the same amps as they did when new. Time to pull the cover.
 

Neal

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I'm going with @redbaron's theory of ground water temp. No issues where I am for a hot shower on electric heating elements.
 
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