Recs for "All Weather" Travel-Trailer

[MicaPica]

Hi, very new to all this and researching as best I can. I need to narrow the field to travel-trailers that are not too heavy (tow vehicle is a 2002 Escalade, rated "7400-8400 lbs" but I don't think I should, or want to, push that limit) but mainly as "all-weather"-ready as possible. I will be making trips to RV dealers and looking and asking questions, lots of questions, yes. Thought I would throw it out here too. I found something called an "Ollie" that is billed as a great all-weather travel-trailer. Looks to be top notch but sort of hard to find. Again, JUST STARTING to research all things RV, so excuse my ignorance. Seeing repeated comments all over that Airstreams are NOT good for cold weather (say, the Dakotas, snowy mountains in CO, etc.), but some people make do. I could be a make-do person, I suppose, and I am not ruling out ANY make or model. Main thing is, being so new at this, I would want something I can handle (not too long, and only need for me and dog), something good for "all weather" but especially colder, and then price, I am open to new or gently used and under $45K would be good. I see Forest River travel trailers that get great reviews.

And then I see this woman in CO and Canada with her Bootcamp Airstream, loving it.

I'm confused and more confused. hahah thanks for any input from personal experience!

 

[Kevin D Pem]

Hello MicaPica,

I stick with vintage with two exceptions. One was a 1960 Seista that was in very bad shape so I tore it down to the floor and made it new. The shape was still tin can ham but the siding was shiny alu. The shinny alu reflected heat back in, the 1 inch foam was the insulation. In 40 deg. weather if 4 of us sat at the table playing card and talking, the heat became to much and we had to open windows. it was the reflective surface of the alu that made the difference. research reflective mylar for more science on that statement.

The second example is a cargo trailer Insulated with reflectix insulation. The trailer was very comfortable with very little heat with nights in the 20's
My Alpinelite touted as the first all weather fifth requires a 2 brick heater when temps dip into the 30s at night.

I am not a fan of all the utilities Hidden in the walls, as in the ollie. Typically an all weather trailer has water lines run in heated space not the walls. The rig is nice and compact and that is good. You may not like dealing with a compost toilet. That is what I put in the cargo trailer. I liked it but the other half would have had issues if she had to deal with the maintenance.

The Siesta with it's reflective alu siding only needed a stove burner to keep it warm. The same applied to the cargo with it's bubble reflective insulation. The cargo had a pellet rocket stove for heat and to make my coffee on.

I would choose a Airstream bambi silver bullet. Other options that work well in the cold are Arctic Fox, or Lance, Arctic Fox would be the top of those two for me.

Disclaimer: My opinion only counts to me and mine. I have stated before find what you like and make a short list, then rent the one's on the list in weather you plan to subject yourself to. Then and only then will you be able to make an informed choice. Keep in mind when closed in to small spaces could make you go insane.



I lived aboard a classic plastic Catalina 30. I don't like plastic, they have their problems, but so do alu in the RV world. Hope this helps, rather than confuse.

 

[TJ&LadyDi]

Cold weather performance is dependent on several things; insulation (including floor insulation), heat source and wind protection. That last one (wind protection) is not something built into an RV; it is a factor of where and how you park it.

Any RV, if parked in cold weather where it is subject to unblocked wind, will be COLD. Finding sites that are protected from the wind will help greatly. Another big factor is blocking the flow of wind underneath the RV. If you can block the flow of cold air flowing under the RV, you will be way ahead.

Way back when, we lived in a converted transit bus with poor floor insulation over a cold winter in the Pacific Northwest. I found some large, thick styrofoam blocks and wrapped them in plastic sheeting that we used to seal off underneath the bus. It made a HUGE difference. I have also seen people use hay/straw bales for the same purpose.

Now, this obviously only works well if you are going to be in one place for an extended period. Carrying that much stuff around would be impractical. The point is, however, if you can find sheltered sites that are not subject to unblocked wind, cold weather performance is enhanced significantly. Even just parking your two vehicle on the windward side of the RV can help.

TJ

 

[MicaPica]

Hello MicaPica,

I stick with vintage with two exceptions. One was a 1960 Seista that was in very bad shape so I tore it down to the floor and made it new. The shape was still tin can ham but the siding was shiny alu. The shinny alu reflected heat back in, the 1 inch foam was the insulation. In 40 deg. weather if 4 of us sat at the table playing card and talking, the heat became to much and we had to open windows. it was the reflective surface of the alu that made the difference. research reflective mylar for more science on that statement.

The second example is a cargo trailer Insulated with reflectix insulation. The trailer was very comfortable with very little heat with nights in the 20's
My Alpinelite touted as the first all weather fifth requires a 2 brick heater when temps dip into the 30s at night.

I am not a fan of all the utilities Hidden in the walls, as in the ollie. Typically an all weather trailer has water lines run in heated space not the walls. The rig is nice and compact and that is good. You may not like dealing with a compost toilet. That is what I put in the cargo trailer. I liked it but the other half would have had issues if she had to deal with the maintenance.

The Siesta with it's reflective alu siding only needed a stove burner to keep it warm. The same applied to the cargo with it's bubble reflective insulation. The cargo had a pellet rocket stove for heat and to make my coffee on.

I would choose a Airstream bambi silver bullet. Other options that work well in the cold are Arctic Fox, or Lance, Arctic Fox would be the top of those two for me.

Disclaimer: My opinion only counts to me and mine. I have stated before find what you like and make a short list, then rent the one's on the list in weather you plan to subject yourself to. Then and only then will you be able to make an informed choice. Keep in mind when closed in to small spaces could make you go insane.



I lived aboard a classic plastic Catalina 30. I don't like plastic, they have their problems, but so do alu in the RV world. Hope this helps, rather than confuse.

Thank you so much! This is a LOT of info for a total new person to digest. I am gonna chew on this.

 

[MicaPica]

Kevin, replied one time already and adding this. I like the Airstream Bambi idea. The general RV dealer I saw today was a dose of cold water on my whole dream. He said basically I cannot pull much with my 2002 Escalade. He said there aren’t really any “all season” smaller travel trailers that will work in SD or up that way anyway. That was what I took from it anyway. I hope he is wrong.



Hello MicaPica,

I stick with vintage with two exceptions. One was a 1960 Seista that was in very bad shape so I tore it down to the floor and made it new. The shape was still tin can ham but the siding was shiny alu. The shinny alu reflected heat back in, the 1 inch foam was the insulation. In 40 deg. weather if 4 of us sat at the table playing card and talking, the heat became to much and we had to open windows. it was the reflective surface of the alu that made the difference. research reflective mylar for more science on that statement.

The second example is a cargo trailer Insulated with reflectix insulation. The trailer was very comfortable with very little heat with nights in the 20's
My Alpinelite touted as the first all weather fifth requires a 2 brick heater when temps dip into the 30s at night.

I am not a fan of all the utilities Hidden in the walls, as in the ollie. Typically an all weather trailer has water lines run in heated space not the walls. The rig is nice and compact and that is good. You may not like dealing with a compost toilet. That is what I put in the cargo trailer. I liked it but the other half would have had issues if she had to deal with the maintenance.

The Siesta with it's reflective alu siding only needed a stove burner to keep it warm. The same applied to the cargo with it's bubble reflective insulation. The cargo had a pellet rocket stove for heat and to make my coffee on.

I would choose a Airstream bambi silver bullet. Other options that work well in the cold are Arctic Fox, or Lance, Arctic Fox would be the top of those two for me.

Disclaimer: My opinion only counts to me and mine. I have stated before find what you like and make a short list, then rent the one's on the list in weather you plan to subject yourself to. Then and only then will you be able to make an informed choice. Keep in mind when closed in to small spaces could make you go insane.



I lived aboard a classic plastic Catalina 30. I don't like plastic, they have their problems, but so do alu in the RV world. Hope this helps, rather than confuse.

Thank you so much! This is a LOT of info for a total new person to digest. I am gonna chew on this.

 

[MicaPica]

Cold weather performance is dependent on several things; insulation (including floor insulation), heat source and wind protection. That last one (wind protection) is not something built into an RV; it is a factor of where and how you park it.

Any RV, if parked in cold weather where it is subject to unblocked wind, will be COLD. Finding sites that are protected from the wind will help greatly. Another big factor is blocking the flow of wind underneath the RV. If you can block the flow of cold air flowing under the RV, you will be way ahead.

Way back when, we lived in a converted transit bus with poor floor insulation over a cold winter in the Pacific Northwest. I found some large, thick styrofoam blocks and wrapped them in plastic sheeting that we used to seal off underneath the bus. It made a HUGE difference. I have also seen people use hay/straw bales for the same purpose.

Now, this obviously only works well if you are going to be in one place for an extended period. Carrying that much stuff around would be impractical. The point is, however, if you can find sheltered sites that are not subject to unblocked wind, cold weather performance is enhanced significantly. Even just parking your two vehicle on the windward side of the RV can help.

TJ

I am a bit discouraged after RV dealer said my SUV won’t be good for pulling much. I cannot buy a new 3/4 ton truck AND a travel trailer. :/. Will research more

 

[TJ&LadyDi]

I am a bit discouraged after RV dealer said my SUV won’t be good for pulling much. I cannot buy a new 3/4 ton truck AND a travel trailer. :/. Will research more

I wouldn't let what one RV dealer told you define how you proceed. He/she might not be correct. That said, any 18-year-old vehicle can present some challenges, especially when towing a trailer. If you have a trusted mechanic that maintains your Escalade, ask them what they think.

Then, if you decide to get a new (at least to you) tow vehicle, a 3/4-ton pickup isn't necessary to tow one of the lighter trailers. A half-ton would do just fine. And, you aren't restricted to buying a new tow vehicle and/or trailer. There are some quality units (both trucks and trailers) on the market for those who have the patience to wait until one comes along. Yep...we're back to "lets not get in too much of a hurry." "Good things come to those with the patience to wait for them."

You may even come across someone selling a fairly new tow vehicle-trailer combination that fits within your budget. Don't give up hope. "Where there is a will, there is a way!"

TJ

 

[MicaPica]

I wouldn't let what one RV dealer told you define how you proceed. He/she might not be correct. That said, any 18-year-old vehicle can present some challenges, especially when towing a trailer. If you have a trusted mechanic that maintains your Escalade, ask them what they think.

Then, if you decide to get a new (at least to you) tow vehicle, a 3/4-ton pickup isn't necessary to tow one of the lighter trailers. A half-ton would do just fine. And, you aren't restricted to buying a new tow vehicle and/or trailer. There are some quality units (both trucks and trailers) on the market for those who have the patience to wait until one comes along. Yep...we're back to "lets not get in too much of a hurry." "Good things come to those with the patience to wait for them."

You may even come across someone selling a fairly new tow vehicle-trailer combination that fits within your budget. Don't give up home. "Where there is a will, there is a way!"

TJ

Thank you TJ, hard not to be bummed, I don't know what I'm doing and I feel like an idiot trying to know what to believe, etc. Kinda overwhelming.
--Sheri (BTW)

 

[Kevin D Pem]

(tow vehicle is a 2002 Escalade, rated "7400-8400 lbs" but I don't think I should, or want to, push that limit)

My 83' Alpinelite has a gvw of 6800 is 26' toung to end of bumper. I sold my vintage 60 seista to a man with a Subaru forester and he had no problems towing it. Seen many Escalades hauling Colman 28 footers. Weigh when loaded and stay withing the gcvw of the truck no problem.

hauled 10000 lbs for years with my 94 dakota with 230000 miles when I got rid of her. My mom hauled an 18'fifth with the Dakota to Alaska when it had just a little under 100000 miles.

Many a 1/2 ton truck is on the road hauling small, lets say under 25 foot trailers, new and old, lite and standard old fashion heaver trailers. Engine size determines weight you can haul. Attention to loading (10% hitch weight) determines how well she handles.

 

[MicaPica]

My 83' Alpinelite has a gvw of 6800 is 26' toung to end of bumper. I sold my vintage 60 seista to a man with a Subaru forester and he had no problems towing it. Seen many Escalades hauling Colman 28 footers. Weigh when loaded and stay withing the gcvw of the truck no problem.

hauled 10000 lbs for years with my 94 dakota with 230000 miles when I got rid of her. My mom hauled an 18'fifth with the Dakota to Alaska when it had just a little under 100000 miles.

Many a 1/2 ton truck is on the road hauling small, lets say under 25 foot trailers, new and old, lite and standard old fashion heaver trailers. Engine size determines weight you can haul. Attention to loading (10% hitch weight) determines how well she handles.

My 83' Alpinelite has a gvw of 6800 is 26' toung to end of bumper. I sold my vintage 60 seista to a man with a Subaru forester and he had no problems towing it. Seen many Escalades hauling Colman 28 footers. Weigh when loaded and stay withing the gcvw of the truck no problem.

hauled 10000 lbs for years with my 94 dakota with 230000 miles when I got rid of her. My mom hauled an 18'fifth with the Dakota to Alaska when it had just a little under 100000 miles.

Many a 1/2 ton truck is on the road hauling small, lets say under 25 foot trailers, new and old, lite and standard old fashion heaver trailers. Engine size determines weight you can haul. Attention to loading (10% hitch weight) determines how well she handles.

Thank you! I have the v8. The owner’s manual says towing weight is 7400-8200 lbs.