- Joined
- Dec 19, 2019
- Messages
- 565
- RV Year
- 2016
- RV Make
- Newmar
- RV Model
- Dutch Star
- RV Length
- 37
- TOW/TOAD
- 2021 Willys
After visiting North Trail to get an idea on cost of labor for replacing the bedroom slide motor (I already purchased the motor from Newmar) and hearing "4-6 hours, at $220+ per. On some harder ones, they cut the shaft and install another coupling" (I didn't hear the exact figure as shock set in), I then decided it was something I'd take a swing at. At first glance, I couldn't understand just how it would disconnect as the shaft goes through the gear box and there would have to be a big enough gap between the shaft ends for the box to come out.
After breaking both trans torque bushings loose, I loosened the set screws on the retaining collars at the bearings and to my surprise, the shafts will slide through the gears to the outside of the box to make room for removal, BUT...for some reason, the floor is cut to clear the gearbox, but not far enough to remove it as the box hits the wood before it is able to clear the shaft.
I then broke out the Dremel and cut the floor a little further to clear the box.
At this point I had to also remove the bearing mount to get enough wiggle room to remove the motor.
Finally, the box was able to be removed! I was so pleased, I took a day off.
After that, it was just a matter of reassembly with the new motor and Stage8 fasteners. (didn't install the clips yet in the pic) A word of caution about the torque couplings. When first breaking loose, they will move a bit then tighten up again. You have to beat on the coupler housing and shaft to loosen the pawls in the coupler until the nut will rotate out. Not doing this will break the inserts and require replacement. I actually soaked them with Blaster the day before to make them easier to remove. I cleaned them with brake clean before reassembly. I'm pretty proud it turned out ok and actually works, but more so that I didn't loose a pint of blood doing it.
After breaking both trans torque bushings loose, I loosened the set screws on the retaining collars at the bearings and to my surprise, the shafts will slide through the gears to the outside of the box to make room for removal, BUT...for some reason, the floor is cut to clear the gearbox, but not far enough to remove it as the box hits the wood before it is able to clear the shaft.
I then broke out the Dremel and cut the floor a little further to clear the box.
At this point I had to also remove the bearing mount to get enough wiggle room to remove the motor.
Finally, the box was able to be removed! I was so pleased, I took a day off.
After that, it was just a matter of reassembly with the new motor and Stage8 fasteners. (didn't install the clips yet in the pic) A word of caution about the torque couplings. When first breaking loose, they will move a bit then tighten up again. You have to beat on the coupler housing and shaft to loosen the pawls in the coupler until the nut will rotate out. Not doing this will break the inserts and require replacement. I actually soaked them with Blaster the day before to make them easier to remove. I cleaned them with brake clean before reassembly. I'm pretty proud it turned out ok and actually works, but more so that I didn't loose a pint of blood doing it.
