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Suggestions for Newmar

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Neal

Staff member
RVF Administrator
Joined
Jul 27, 2019
Messages
11,480
Location
Midlothian, VA
RV Year
2017
RV Make
Newmar
RV Model
Ventana 4037
RV Length
40' 10"
Chassis
Freightliner XCR
Engine
Cummins 400 HP
TOW/TOAD
2017 Chevy Colorado
Fulltimer
No
This thread is to document your ideas for Newmar to read. This is not a complaint thread but a constructive idea thread if you come up with ideas to improve or innovate. Newmar seems to have responded to my thread posted on IRV2 of this nature, let's continue it here.

EDIT: A new system is in place and the Newmar Suggestions is now a dedicated forum using the new voting system by this forum'ware. Please create a NEW THREAD for each suggestion. Do not reply to an existing post with your suggestion.

Many posts/suggestions have no been moved to their own threads so some of the dialog below will be confusing
 
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Hate to pick on any mechanical engineers that might be on this forum but......when designing something there should be a requirement that they have to fix all foreseeable failures prior to production of any design [emoji3]

Marketing does not approve.
 
OASIS burner switch in the rear bath.
So you don’t have to run up front to turn on the burner when I’m ready to shower

@rtspence - Boy this is a great suggestion ... can't tell you how many times I have been in the shower and start yelling at DW to "turn on the burner" ...

FLSteve
 
Well now that I’ve seemed to fix my Kwikee step by cleaning connections and grounds, it reminds me of another Newmar production request. Dielectric grease. Please don’t put non-weatherproof connections together without dielectric grease. It’s very important.
 
In (1), are you speaking of a "driver's side door"? Or the "rear egress door", usually as an emergency exit from the bathroom?
The reason I ask, is that I have the driver's door on my 3710 Canyon Star, & the rear egress door was shown as an option.
In (2), I have the 15,000 BTU heat pumps front and rear, which were also an option.
Or did I misinterpret, and your intent/suggestion was to make them standard?

Allan
Yes drivers door. I asked for the 15000 on the Baystar 3626. They refused. Kind of crazy , since much lower quality manufacturers offer it on even smaller coaches. I have the 15000 on my Forester and it barely keeps up on a 95 degree day.
 
Yes drivers door. I asked for the 15000 on the Baystar 3626. They refused. Kind of crazy , since much lower quality manufacturers offer it on even smaller coaches. I have the 15000 on my Forester and it barely keeps up on a 95 degree day.
Not sure why you cant get them!
But you can get them & the door too, on a Canyon Star.
A bit more expensive than Bay Star, but will allow you to get both the 15,000, & the drivers door too.
Good luck, whichever choice you make!
 
Not sure why you cant get them!
But you can get them & the door too, on a Canyon Star.
A bit more expensive than Bay Star, but will allow you to get both the 15,000, & the drivers door too.
Good luck, whichever choice you make!
Already have the Baystar ordered. Personally, I think they should add whatever the customer is willing to pay for. They seem not to be as much of a custom shop as I was led to believe. Canyon star did not have the right floor plan.
 
Significantly more marker lighting on the sides of the coach.
 
Know this is nitpicky, but move the switch panel in the kitchen (Ventana Models) out to the end of the cabinet on the side, so people with short arms can reach those switches. It is now in a place the BH cannot get too, especially when slide is out, as that is the deepest point of the counter.

Move the thermostat to the main inside wall so it's central to the coach. The temp sensor/clock is on that wall, move it there. This may be only in the Ventana models. Realize that in the NA and others the dometic thermostat is not an item, it's integrated into Silverleaf in NA, don't know about DS.

It would seem to me, that if some components/features are common across all diesel lines, this would cut down on costs of parts and the labor to install them in different places on every model. I could be wrong about this. And my main complaint is the quality of the sub-components purchased, many if not all made in China, move to better built components, made in the USA, YES, that will cost more, but it would put more Americans to work, and ensure that gotchas dont happen as often. I can give example if necessary.
I think I saw the new Dometic 10 button thermostat on the wall right behind the co-pilots chair. Is this the one you're talking about?
 
I have converted my last 2 houses with a full loop hot water recirculating system. If the loop passes closely to the faucet you get nearly instantaneous hot water without dumping the unwanted cool water down the drain.
In a coach with finite fresh and waste water tanks, a similar system could save precious water.
The heart of the system is a pump with temperature switching. It turns itself on and off based on the water temperature in the loop. It can also be provided with a timer so it only operates during typical use hours. For an RV, there could be a switch that the user turns on the pump prior to needing hot water and allows a few minutes for the loop to get up to temp.
The hot water lines must be planned out so that the return line begins at the furthest faucet in the pipe line. The pumps are small and being located next to the water heater should be no problem.
At first, the water being tossed down the drain seems insignificant, but accumulated it is quite a bit. If I were ordering a new coach I would at least ask if they’d consider it.
 
I have converted my last 2 houses with a full loop hot water recirculating system. If the loop passes closely to the faucet you get nearly instantaneous hot water without dumping the unwanted cool water down the drain.
In a coach with finite fresh and waste water tanks, a similar system could save precious water.
The heart of the system is a pump with temperature switching. It turns itself on and off based on the water temperature in the loop. It can also be provided with a timer so it only operates during typical use hours. For an RV, there could be a switch that the user turns on the pump prior to needing hot water and allows a few minutes for the loop to get up to temp.
The hot water lines must be planned out so that the return line begins at the furthest faucet in the pipe line. The pumps are small and being located next to the water heater should be no problem.
At first, the water being tossed down the drain seems insignificant, but accumulated it is quite a bit. If I were ordering a new coach I would at least ask if they’d consider it.
What you describe sounds an awful lot like a Shower Miser (RV) except for the pump. Newmar already installs these on their units. However, I suppose they could also add an option for installing the Sink Miser as well.
 
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