Tank Flush Dribble

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Maybe this is a normal annoyance. Maybe I am doing it wrong. Maybe something is broken. Need some help from the experience folks here with identifying which one it is.

Whenever I flush my black tank, I hook up my rinse hose, connect to water supply, let it fill and dump three or four times until the water runs clear.

When disconnecting, I turn off the water, close my gate, disconnect at the water supply and leave the hose on the ground so water can drain from my hose (there is a check valve between my hose and the tank rinse valve to ensure I am not dumping sewage out of my hose as well as the built in check valve on the tank rinse). When I disconnect my hose from the tank rinse valve though, clean water spills from the tank rinse into the floor of my wet bay. It’s enough to coat the entire drain pan with a good 1/8” of water. I always have to take everything out of the wetbay before flushing to prevent things from getting soaked.

Is this normal? The only thing I can think of is that because I have an additional check valve on the end of the hose, this water that is spilling is trapped between my hose check valve and the built in check valve. No pressure to push it into the tank, check valve preventing it from emptying through the hose. Disconnect and here it comes...

Does your wetbay get soaked when you disconnect from your tank rinse?
 
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Normal - mine does it. The check valve Newmar installs is under your half bath sink. I use a check valve at the tank rinse connection as well.
 
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@MapNerd @Neal … just a question. Before you disconnect the hose, do you first drain the system using this valve?? It dumps under the coach.

FLSteve


flush valve.jpg
 
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My coach doesn't have that valve
 
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Our 2018 MADP also has that drain valve and it works as described. I think the actual purpose is to drain the tank rinse system for winterizing. I also carry a round, rubber pan in the wet bay (check farm supply stores for them) to put under the connection to collect stray water.

TJ
 
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I open valve @FLSteve suggest, will get most of the water out but still will dribble a small amount
 
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@FLSteve that is one nice setup. Where did you get those faucets for the wetbay shower? Another mod to add to the list.
 
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Little off subject, does anyone else use hot water to flush? With unlimited hot, I figured it would clean better.
 
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I do and wondered if it mattered.
 
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@MapNerd @Neal … just a question. Before you disconnect the hose, do you first drain the system using this valve?? It dumps under the coach.

FLSteve
Nope. I don't have that valve. This is the kind of stuff that really irks me about Newmar. They clearly knew this was an issue as a solution to resolve it was implemented on DSDP+ lines way back in 2018 at least. It probably costs a whopping 18 cents in parts (considering their purchasing power) and 5 minutes in additional labor. Yet they hold back on something so simple for the lower lines. So in order to buy a coach that would not drench my wetbay every time I rinsed, I would've needed to spend an extra $70k.
 
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Can't wait to see your mod to add one :) If you're going to have the wet bay panel off this would not be a hard mod to add. You can get the rotary knob from Newmar parts, the rest is just pex tubing and connectors. For example put in a T-connector that goes to the drain rinse connection and then to a new down tube with the on/off knob. After turning off the black tank rinse and prior to disconnecting open the valve which will drain the line, close the knob and disconnect. This would be cool for @redbaron to automate with an electric on/off valve in his automated dump/flush system :)
 
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Can't wait to see your mod to add one.
Yep. It's been added to the list of things to change in the wetbay. At some point I'll be able to get out of the mockup phase and into the doing phase.
 
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When is NC software going to open the “we do mods division”? Build it and they will come...
 
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When is NC software going to open the “we do mods division”? Build it and they will come...

The biggest problem is the addiction vs. service issue. My therapist that finally tapered off my mods via electric shock is concerned about such a venture. Me love some mods!

I know @Chuggs and I would love to help with solar installs, that's almost fun! :) The LED lighting was a bit more painful, I hate running wires!

The wet bay stuff was fun too other than the constant puzzle of pex and fittings, diameters, crimps, etc. I despised the Lowes/HD runs trying to solve the plumbing puzzles with the mix of everything Newmar uses. I could not have figured out the electricals (relays, latching controllers, diodes, zeners, etc.) without @Chuggs and @Stuart S - huge help in my project which I love love love (drainmaster, sanicon, all from the inside).
 
Last edited:
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I have been working on jeep mods. So much easier to gain access to than the dutchstar!

I should be done.with the jeep in the next 2 weeks, and return to the dutchstar tank system. I have a few people on the beta list, and plan on documenting the requirements for the full install soon.

2019 DSDP 4369 * Active Air * NHSO
 
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@MapNerd @Neal … just a question. Before you disconnect the hose, do you first drain the system using this valve?? It dumps under the coach.

FLSteve


View attachment 659


Hmmm, so you have an interesting setup. You're using on-board water pump (or city) pressure run through that faucet to rinse your tank? My instant thought, was that it's not nearly the amount of pressure or flow as would with a direct hookup to the spigot.

Do tell, please!?

I've retrofitted my whole operation with Quick-Connects and MAN does it make things fast and easy. But, like ya'll...I've got post-disconnect drip that I'm working on. Caps, plugs, and loops for now.
 
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Quick update on this for me. After removing the check valve I had on my rinse hose, no more spillage. I just disconnect at the spigot, let water drain from the hose and then disconnect from the rinse valve.
 
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It seems that you wouldn't need to remove the check valve as the same steps would yield the same results? The check valve isn't needed, I use one too for paranoia. In fact I did a rinse last night and could smell black tank smell so it may stop fluid but not stop the gasses. This was discussed long ago on the other forum when I mentioned this concern of plumbing a permanent line to the black tank rinse that you still have gasses to worry about.
 
Joined
Jul 27, 2019
Messages
3,624
Location
Midlothian, VA
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RV Length
40' 10"
TOW/TOAD
2017 Chevy Colorado
Hmmm, so you have an interesting setup. You're using on-board water pump (or city) pressure run through that faucet to rinse your tank? My instant thought, was that it's not nearly the amount of pressure or flow as would with a direct hookup to the spigot.

Do tell, please!?

I've retrofitted my whole operation with Quick-Connects and MAN does it make things fast and easy. But, like ya'll...I've got post-disconnect drip that I'm working on. Caps, plugs, and loops for now.

I don't have the setup like you as you have a dedicated black tank rinse drain. I would think your procedure would be to do the black tank rinse, shut off the water source for the rinse, then open the black tank rinse drain? I'd think that would just reroute the "dribble" out that plumbing instead of your connection point. Again, don't know, I don't have that feature.
 
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