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How To Verify your ITR OASIS Two Electric Burners are working

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Neal

Staff member
RVF Administrator
Joined
Jul 27, 2019
Messages
11,477
Location
Midlothian, VA
RV Year
2017
RV Make
Newmar
RV Model
Ventana 4037
RV Length
40' 10"
Chassis
Freightliner XCR
Engine
Cummins 400 HP
TOW/TOAD
2017 Chevy Colorado
Fulltimer
No
In my other thread about AC Heat not working I had a short, a second electrical short in the wiring of my OASIS system. In verifying the wiring ITR Heat had me go to my EMS panel and then turn AC I on and check for an AMP change. I showed +12 AMPS. Then switch to AC I and II and you should see a gain of 12 AMPS on both L1 and 12 AMPS on L2. L2 was NOT showing any change for me. I verified all wiring, wire nuts, etc. and could not figure out the issue. I then removed and reinserted the spade connectors in the 3rd back relay which is related to AC II and now it works. I'm sure I'll now enjoy much better heating via electric than before. This could have been this way since taking delivery and never knowing it so the above steps may help you verify for your own peace of mind that your AC I and AC I/II are working as it should.
 
Last edited:
Neal,
I just checked mine. Believe it or not, I have the same problem. AC1-13A, AC1+AC2 -13A.
On our trip last week, I noticed it was taking longer than usual to heat the water. Always something.....
 
Just checked mine AC1 increase 12a L2, AC1/2 increase 10A L1, thanks for the info
 
In my other thread about AC Heat not working I had a short, a second electrical short in the wiring of my OASIS system. In verifying the wiring ITR Heat had me go to my EMS panel and then turn AC I on and check for an AMP change. I showed +12 AMPS. Then switch to AC I and II and you should see a gain of 12 AMPS on both L1 and 12 AMPS on L2. L2 was NOT showing any change for me. I verified all wiring, wire nuts, etc. and could not figure out the issue. I then removed and reinserted the spade connectors in the 3rd back relay which is related to AC II and now it works. I'm sure I'll now enjoy much better heating via electric than before. This could have been this way since taking delivery and never knowing it so the above steps may help you verify for your own peace of mind that your AC I and AC I/II are working as it should.
@Neal … where is this relay located?? Down by the Oasis unit or at the control panel over the drivers seat? Did you get a picture?

FLSteve
 
There are 3 relays on the bottom left of the oasis. Remove the front panel and you’ll see it on the left. FYI if needed you can remove the front shroud/cover of the oasis unit by loosening 3 screws and lifting it off. Newmar may have installed the floor mounting bolts into this shroud so use a 7/16 socket or ratchet wrench to remove the two bolts if needed. It’s a good exercise in learning to access the oasis internals which is not hard and helps for a good wiring inspection. I used a voltage pen to test the 120V power and without that today I’d been lost.
 
If your AC Heat green light is not coming on run a faucet on hot water for 1 minute and then do your test.
 
Today I did some troubleshooting. Opened up the Oasis, and could not find anything wrong.
Got back to the display panel, and noticed with the switch to AC1/AC2, Line1 is 122V/12A draw, and Line2 is 7V 1A ???

Line status.jpeg


Checked the transfer switch, both lines are hot. Inside the coach the AC breaker panel, the main double 50A breaker raised my suspicion.
When I touch L1 breaker with the tester, it is buzzing strong. When I touch the L2 side, nothing.
Opened the panel, and both lines coming to the breaker are hot. so I'm suspecting the L2 side breaker is bad.
It is Eeaton brand, but I'm not sure if it is anything special about it?
The fun will continue tomorrow, and hopefully I will not electrocute myself ?
 
Look carefully at the breaker model number. The shore power and inverter breakers are different. You need the exact correct model number.

The test in this thread requires 50A service otherwise GEN power. Not 30A service.
 
I have a good 50A service at our home RV garage. Tomorrow will remove the breaker and try to match the part number at Lowe’s or H Depot.
 
I’m stumped.
Today I opened the main panel and checked all leads with wolf meter. Both L1 and L2 are getting 120V.
But on the Power Control Monitor, I’m getting L2 7V like the picture I posed yesterday.
Turned off the shore power and fired up the generator. No change. L1 shows 7V. Any ideas?
 

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