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Thank you! I had the battery disconnect off. I called it bypass. That should be my problem. So i have a leak somewhere. I'll have to search for it tomorrow because its nothing I can see inside. Sinks toilet ect. Thanks again!!The water pump shouldn't cycle with all taps closed. It should hold the pressure, and the pressure switch shouldn't close and cycle the pump. That said...water pressure is leaking out somewhere. I could be a fitting, it could be a check valve, it could be a fill valve, which is allowing back pressure to bleed past even though the valve is closed.
I'm not sure what a "battery bypass" is. If you are on shore power...your converter...or inverter/charger as installed should keep the batteries topped up, while simultaneously meeting your 12vdc demands. That said, if your "bypass" prevents the batteries from also getting charged...then many subtle things can be draining them. They have a slow internal self drain. Usually, Flooded batteries can go 3-6 months...AGMs 6-12 months. Also, what may have been wired directly to the batteries, bypassing your bypass. Carbon Monoxide monitors in Propane Equipped rigs. Electric Brake breakaway circuit, TPMS booster, add-on items...bluetooth devices to monitor LP tank level, Macerator pumps, perhaps a Thermostat, or DSI control for HotWater or Furnace... You'd have to know every wire and where it is in the scheme of things.
It is usually better if connected to shore power to let the converter float the batteries, instead of removing them from this maintenance charge. Or, simply recording your drain, and adding a solar panel to keep the bank charged up and not depleting...which would work regardless of your connectivity to shore, or bypassing if that's what you choose to do.
Most welcome...Thank you! I had the battery disconnect off. I called it bypass. That should be my problem. So i have a leak somewhere. I'll have to search for it tomorrow because its nothing I can see inside. Sinks toilet ect. Thanks again!!
Gotcha. If so, what would be the fix?Most welcome...
When I say leak...it may not be a drip from a fitting or line. It may be a valve or check valve that internally bleeding water pressure back to the supply side..
RV geeks had a video on their YouTube channel of a similar issue.
@Chuggs is doing a great job here, and is spot on. I would like to suggest that if the pump valves are faulty you might consider a new water pump that controls the pressure better. Also if you must take the pump out for service consider a strainer filter for the inlet side of the pump.If it is doing it while on pump alone...or the water pressure is already within limits...replacement of the faulty valve.
Thank you so.much!!If you have bleed thru...if connected to city water...I would first make sure your supply pressure is 50psi. If you don’t already, it can be important to use a water pressure regulator.
If it is doing it while on pump alone...or the water pressure is already within limits...replacement of the faulty valve.
Some extra places to look...
underneath at low side drains used for draining the system for repair or winterizing.
pt valve (pressure relief/over temp relief) on water heater weeping.
outside shower panel.
Water dripping back out of the city water connector.
Make sure if you have winterizing valves for pumping in the food safe antifreeze are fully switched to their proper position for normal Non-winterizing use.