XLS 23BHE Freeze Proof

[redbaron]

We have many similar questions. Brand new Reflection 315RLTS w/4 Seasons package, but we continue to have freezing pipes in temperatures in the 'teens. First, the copper tubing at the water heater; dealer installed a heating pad on the tubing. Then freezing at the pump inside the Nautilus unit; we now leave the side panel off the Nautilus and run a small space heater in the storage area with the Nautilus. Anticipating very cold temps this week we added insultation along the piping inside the Coroplast belly panels from Nautilus in front to split for kitchen sink. This morning (New Year's Day) we have cold water but no hot; hot water piping does not pass enough flow to kick on water heater.
Any ideas would be helpful!?!?

Hay bales around the perimeter of the trailer. You want to keep wind from blowing under it. Wrap bales with a tarp to seal it up better.

The area where furnace for water heater and coach air exhaust need extra protection to prevent the hay from getting caught on fire. A piece of osb on top of the hay should be good.

 

[Looknow12]

Just had a cold night of 9 degrees with no wind. The wind can make a difference if you are hoping for a bit of radiant heat from the underbelly and the storage compartments. Remember the unit isn't air tight so excessive wind will take heat away.

Anyway I check this morning and kitchen sink faucet won't work. Lines must be frozen.bathroom if course fine since it has the duct right off the furnace.

I have temp sensors in several spots. See image below. Fortunately no leak. Should have kept the pump off though had I thought about it in advance.

 

[Looknow12]

Btw I had complaints with grand design about lack of duct work to master bedroom. During the conversation with GD he actually said to me you should have bought a reflection.

Anyway, We had a plan to run a line from kitchen sink side to add second duct. In hindsight though it might take away from the underbelly heat making this worse.

This is not a four season camper.

 

[redbaron]

I would add electric ceramic heaters in the back area, and open cabinet doors.

I am replacing the furnace with an aquahot. I will start a thread for this upgrade once I get going.

 

[Jireh Financial]

"but I can’t get a straight answer from anyone at the dealer as to what the factory min temp design is to prevent freezing."

This is because when something goes wrong, your dealer does not want to be responsible. You can never say "you told me so" if they don't comet to a temperature where freezing will occur. It's called CYA from the dealership. Notice I am not giving advice on this either (ha).
Let me know how we can help.
Ken

 

[Bob K4TAX]

There are too many variables to consider when asking the question "what is the minimum temperature design to prevent freezing". A simple answer for water is any temperature below 32 degrees F. Any line exposed will begin to show signs of freezing at or below 32 degrees. The amount of insulation around the line is very important. Just because it is enclosed inside a compartment is no assurance it won't freeze. If the line is against an outside wall there will be conduction of the cold and the line can freeze, although the compartment is above freezing. Physical conduction of temperature from one object to another is more efficient than air conduction. Usually, the inside temperature related to the outside temperature is about 10 to 20 degrees different. However, that does not consider "soak time" which is an important factor. If the temps briefly drop to a low of 20 degrees overnight that is not usually an issue. However, if the temperature stays at 20 degrees or lower for longer than 24 hours, one can be in serious trouble. Anytime the outside temperature is below freezing one can expect to need a heat source on the inside.

Someone asked about a 60 watt 12-volt bulb. That will draw about 5 amps from the 12-volt source. With a 100 aH battery, using 50% discharge as a safe level for battery survivability, that gives about 10 hours of operation for a single bulb. Do the math from here.

The best policy, good insulation, and making sure all doors, hatches, and such are securely closed and there are no cracks or crevices for the exchange of air to take place is the better approach. Keep cold air out, and warm air in.