I need some help with my electrical system in my camper

[mancave]

I was given a camper and I am gutting it and redoing it. I am at the point of redoing the wiring and I want to redo the wiring since I am seeing 14/2 and 12/2 and I don't know how old this wire is. so My issue is what wire do I use to wire my furnace and my ac? should I put them on the same breaker or separate?.
I also plan to wire outlets on a line and put lights on another line.

This is a 30amp system so I have to confirm to this to make all this safe. So anyone who can help me out would be great. If you need further info just let me know.

Thanks
Don

 

[Kevin D Pem]

Well Don, age is not an issue if the insulation is good.

Heater and ac can be on the same circuit because they don't run at the same time.

Your outlet daisy chain can be started with a GFIC device and give you a safe system.

 

[mancave]

Hi thanks for the reply. I have been told by a electrician I can use 6g wire to wire everything to just to be safe and prevent any overload. I do plan to have GFIC outlets where I have sinks and any where near water. He said I can use it to wire everything including outlets and lights.
however the cost for that wire is very high.

Don

 

[Fizxguy]

I was given a camper and I am gutting it and redoing it. I am at the point of redoing the wiring and I want to redo the wiring since I am seeing 14/2 and 12/2 and I don't know how old this wire is. so My issue is what wire do I use to wire my furnace and my ac? should I put them on the same breaker or separate?.
I also plan to wire outlets on a line and put lights on another line.

This is a 30amp system so I have to confirm to this to make all this safe. So anyone who can help me out would be great. If you need further info just let me know.

Thanks
Don

Try Explorist.life. I’ve purchased one of their kits for my motorhome.

 

[newmarokie]

6awg is awfully big wire. I'm not sure you can even get a plug into the box after attaching. I think, Kevin may correct me, but fourteen gauge is approved for a 20 amp circuit by the NEC. Many city codes require 12 gauge. The key is to not build a string on a circuit that can have to many energy hogs put on it. Think coffee pot, tea kettle, toaster and microwave all on the same circuit. I have seen electricians put plugs on a bathroom vanity on separate circuits because of blow dryers, curling irons, and hot curlers. More circuits are better than too few circuits that will be overloaded.

 

[GTS225]

Hi thanks for the reply. I have been told by a electrician I can use 6g wire to wire everything to just to be safe and prevent any overload. I do plan to have GFIC outlets where I have sinks and any where near water. He said I can use it to wire everything including outlets and lights.
however the cost for that wire is very high.

Don

Whoever told you that is NOT an electrician worthy of the title. While it might be true that you could use 6 gauge, it's entirely to large for the job. It's also true that you wouldn't over-amp the wire. However, I highly doubt you could even get it into the terminals on a standard duplex outlet.
Use 12 gauge for the outlets and 14 for the lighting. Typically, there's a dedicated circuit for the A/C.

Roger

 

[Kevin D Pem]

6awg is awfully big wire. I'm not sure you can even get a plug into the box after attaching. I think, Kevin may correct me, but fourteen gauge is approved for a 20 amp circuit by the NEC. Many city codes require 12 gauge. The key is to not build a string on a circuit that can have to many energy hogs put on it. Think coffee pot, tea kettle, toaster and microwave all on the same circuit. I have seen electricians put plugs on a bathroom vanity on separate circuits because of blow dryers, curling irons, and hot curlers. More circuits are better than too few circuits that will be overloaded.

Your correct, I will correct you!

20 amp circuit=12awg
15 amp circuit =14awg

That is with standard length runs. Definitely within a mobile home. 30Amp would be 10awg. Once again that depends on how long the run is.

Now I use 6awg for my 1000w solar run! That would be the 60volt run from the panels. But really 6awg for even 30Amp whatever is acceptable (as long as it's over 10awg) there is no rules to say you can't), but way over kill!!!

 

[B52Bombardier1]

All,

Why are we not suggesting the use of 12 and 14 gauge "three conductor" wiring? There is absolutely a need for a ground wire in this system, not merely a hot and a neutral.

Rick

 

[Kevin D Pem]

All,

Why are we not suggesting the use of 12 and 14 gauge "three conductor" wiring? There is absolutely a need for a ground wire in this system, not merely a hot and a neutral.

Rick

Because it is pre-existing. If he strips the old out then romex only comes in one form! He wants to demo Because old wiring has no ground, and he feels the need for one. Why mention something he already has planned for?

 

[Rich W.]

Hi thanks for the reply. I have been told by a electrician I can use 6g wire to wire everything to just to be safe and prevent any overload. I do plan to have GFIC outlets where I have sinks and any where near water. He said I can use it to wire everything including outlets and lights.
however the cost for that wire is very high.

Don

Unless you are installing 240v appliances or an outlet for your welder, 6ga would be ridiculous, expensive, and make the job more difficult, if not impossible. Completely agree with others here: 12 for outlets, 14 for lights, and the existing wire is probably just fine and will be for the duration. A visual inspection of the wire and connections is all that’s needed. Also since you are renovating use all LED lighting and modern appliances that are more efficient and draw less power. Sounds like a great project. Got any pics.

 

[Rich W.]

All,

Why are we not suggesting the use of 12 and 14 gauge "three conductor" wiring? There is absolutely a need for a ground wire in this system, not merely a hot and a neutral.

Rick

Standard Romex (12/2 or 14/2) has three conductors - a hot and neutral both with their own internal insulation, and an uninsulated ground inside the exterior sheath of insulation. 12/3 or 14/3 have an extra insulated wire (traveler) inside the sheath (so black, white, and red plus ground) and are used for things like circuits with 3 way switches.

So recommending he keeps his existing 12 and 14 ga romex IS recommending the use of wire with 3 connectors that includes a ground. Don’t want to confuse the OP any more since he has already had incorrect advice.

 

[Kevin D Pem]

Quick note:

According to code (NEC) a conductor is a wire that carries the load current. More specifically, insulated conductor.

There is no reason to count the ground as a conductor, for two reasons. One it is not a current conducting wire. Second code calls it a grounding wire not a conductor. Three, other than allowing preexisting work to stay as built, no new work would pass enspection without ground!

When adding to preexisting work the most common approach is to use a GFIC to feed new work from preexisting system.

 

[Rich W.]

Quick note:

According to code (NEC) a conductor is a wire that carries the load current. More specifically, insulated conductor.

There is no reason to count the ground as a conductor, for two reasons. One it is not a current conducting wire. Second code calls it a grounding wire not a conductor. Three, other than allowing preexisting work to stay as built, no new work would pass enspection without ground!

When adding to preexisting work the most common approach is to use a GFIC to feed new work from preexisting system.

Agreed - pour use of the term on my part but it seemed the comment I responded to implied that standard romex doesn’t have a provision for a ground. That was what I was a trying to address.

 

[mancave]

Thanks for all the replies. I pulled the box and all the wire out today and the way it was hook is the shore line as I call it was hooked to the box and breaker then 14/2 and 12/2 was hooked to the other breaker(was a single breaker with 2 switches).
The way I was thinking was take the shore line and hook to box to give it power when its plugged in then use breakers for outlets and lights.

how does this sound? I just now have to be sure I get the correct wire. I too think 8g is too big for outlets and lights. he said 10 was min and 8 was max. So I am not sure what and who to trust haha. but I will keep researching it and study hard before I jump into it.

would it be good to have fuses for the ac and furnace? I know I want fuses for the outside camper lights,and water pump.

update - I think the electrician misunderstood what I was asking him. I think he thought I was asking how to wire the 30 amp plug that I would use in the camper site instead of the other but I am awaiting his reply.

Don

 

[Kevin D Pem]

There are some qualified electricians on this site! You have not been steered wrong yet!

May I suggest if you're uncomfortable with this task you hire it done!

 

[mancave]

There are some qualified electricians on this site! You have not been steered wrong yet!

May I suggest if you're uncomfortable with this task you hire it done!

Yeah he still says 8g well he says 8/2 so I am not sure if the size of the wire would be same for 8g and 8/2 or if they are different.

I can't afford to have it done so I have to do it all myself.

 

[Rich W.]

Post some pics and it will be easier to provide guidance. 8 gauge is still totally unnecessary for an RV with a 30amp service. It won’t be using 30 amps through each and every one of the circuits, 30 amps is the total draw of all the circuits. There is just nothing in a typical RV that justifies anything over 12ga. So…pics.

I agree with Kevin that from the previous comments, this would be better handled by a qualified electrician and you clearly don’t have one at your disposal. But that said, it’s nothing you can’t learn and do yourself. What stops people from sharing their knowledge in these cases is the possibility that it could encourage an unqualified person to go ahead with work and potentially make mistakes that could have life safety implications.

But I’m willing to take and look at the job and I’m sure others are too. Beyond that without more info I can’t say anything. So what are you working on? Make, model, year? And can you post some pics? That’s where I’d have to start.

 

[Kevin D Pem]

Yeah he still says 8g well he says 8/2 so I am not sure if the size of the wire would be same for 8g and 8/2 or if they are different.

I can't afford to have it done so I have to do it all myself.

I try not to do this! BUT!!! Your friend may be working in the electrical field, but is not a qualified electrician.

I tried to talk you into using existing wiring, but now you have something that is useless without a good deal of help!

At this time if you must ask for help and want qualified information I suggest either choose to listen to those here that have offered to guide you on this list! Or ask a fourth graders for their opinion! You have not received more credible information other than those two sources.

I personally will not help any further if I hear you are getting information from you friend who says he is an electrician. he is not !!!

 

[Rich W.]

I try not to do this! BUT!!! Your friend may be working in the electrical field, but is not a qualified electrician.

I tried to talk you into using existing wiring, but now you have something that is useless without a good deal of help!

At this time if you must ask for help and want qualified information I suggest either choose to listen to those here that have offered to guide you on this list! Or ask a fourth graders for their opinion! You have not received more credible information other than those two sources.

I personally will not help any further if I hear you are getting information from you friend who says he is an electrician. he is not !!!

Well the good news is that if he keeps negotiating he’ll eventually get back to 12 and 14 gauge wire. ;^]
.

 

[mancave]

wow why does everyone get so insulted. I pulled the wire because it was all over in a mess. I have decided to do one step at a time. first I will get a new box and connect the shore line to it and then go from there.
as far as year,make,model I have no idea as it was given to me and the plate on the camper have worn to hardly seeing the details.
I wasn't here to insult anyone or upset anyone. In the end I always figure it out and I possibly will go back to the 14 and 12 in the end, I just have to be sure before risking it and I am sure everyone can understand that.
Anyway can you answer this. If I get a 125amp breaker box and put a 30amp for shore and then 15amps in the others and no to exceed a total of 125 will this be safe? what would be a good amp breaker to put ac and furnace on?

Thanks
Don