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New to Towing a Vehicle

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Dan_Frisbie

RVF VIP
Joined
Aug 4, 2022
Messages
300
We usually have the box trailer with motorcycles behind the Class A, but since my wife bought a 2021 Wrangler (manual transmission), I am considering setting it up to flat tow.
Putting it in the box trailer would overload my hitch on the RV, but the trailer can handle the weight.
I am curious about the tow bar setups out there. Some are quite expensive. Do I need the Jeep brakes?
Would it be smarter/cheaper to upgrade the RV hitch for more weight and use my existing box trailer? The box trailer has electric brakes.

Thanks for your help.
 
You cannot upgrade the hitch to increase your towing capacity. Your brakes, transmission, engine, and frame are all designed for a certain load.

Roadmaster, Blue Ox, and Demco are the major manufacturers of towing systems. Many Jeep owners have changed the bumper to a stronger bumper designed so the towbar attaches directly to it. Do you need a brake for the Jeep? Yes, and that is a big yes. You not only need a brake but also a breakaway brake. Why? Most states make it illegal to tow without a braking system.
 
You cannot upgrade the hitch to increase your towing capacity. Your brakes, transmission, engine, and frame are all designed for a certain load.

Roadmaster, Blue Ox, and Demco are the major manufacturers of towing systems. Many Jeep owners have changed the bumper to a stronger bumper designed so the towbar attaches directly to it. Do you need a brake for the Jeep? Yes, and that is a big yes. You not only need a brake but also a breakaway brake. Why? Most states make it illegal to tow without a braking system.
The Blue Ox system we have on our Jeep Wrangler is fantastic, but costly. We have Class A diesel pusher, they installed the system with a separate smaller air tank to handle brakes for Jeep. It can be hooked up and unhooked within 15 minutes easily by one person. The system, I think, was called Air Force One? We had a professional install it and cost of everything was around $8,000, but don't think we'll be replacing either unit in a long, long time so it was worth it.
 
We usually have the box trailer with motorcycles behind the Class A, but since my wife bought a 2021 Wrangler (manual transmission), I am considering setting it up to flat tow.
Putting it in the box trailer would overload my hitch on the RV, but the trailer can handle the weight.
I am curious about the tow bar setups out there. Some are quite expensive. Do I need the Jeep brakes?
Would it be smarter/cheaper to upgrade the RV hitch for more weight and use my existing box trailer? The box trailer has electric brakes.

Thanks for your help.
Regardless of cost, you will find flat towing so much more convenient (as long as you don't have to back up with the toad attached). Finding a site long enough to accommodate your Coach trailer and the Jeep will be more difficult too. And as Texas Clodhopper mentioned, it's probably not possible to beef up your hitch.

We use Blue Ox and a Brake Buddy. Love the Blue Ox but not so thrilled with Brake Buddy. I just don't like how it sits against the driver seat base. We are now towing our third Jeep and would never go back to a dolly or trailer.

Darrell
 
We have the Blue Ox tow bar and the Air Force One setup. I can hook up and check everything in less than 10 minutes. As others mentioned, not cheap. I installed an aluminum bumper with the integrated tow hooks from Rock Hard 4x4 and installed the wiring harness. Had a local shop install the Air Force One as I wasn't comfortable tackling that one.

If you have air brakes on your Class A, this is a good setup. If you don't have air brakes, check into one of the other braking systems.

If you stay with any of the top rated units, you'll be fine. Not something where you want to pinch penny's. Good luck with your decision.
 
I always wonder what type/class hitch one has, and what makes them think it needs to be beefed up?

So do what you can to answer those questions. Then I may be able to give an informed answer!
 
You cannot upgrade the hitch to increase your towing capacity. Your brakes, transmission, engine, and frame are all designed for a certain load.
This is not necessarily true.
A 3/4 ton gasoline CC pickup can tow more than my MH is rated to tow. The F53 has a beefier chassis and brakes with a similar engine/tranny combo.
My hitch is limited to 5k.
Is my RV? I need to find out...
 
I always wonder what type/class hitch one has, and what makes them think it needs to be beefed up?

So do what you can to answer those questions. Then I may be able to give an informed answer!
My hitch has a 5,000 lb limit. My F53 has a 20,500 limit on the RV itself. Looking for the RV tow capacity...
 

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Your GCWR is 26000 pounds. It is time to drive to the nearest Cat scale.
 
There are only three aftermarket bumpers rated for flat towing Jeep Wranglers, RockHard, LOD and Smittybilt. I have the Smittybilt which I installed myself. Roadmaster makes bumper D-ring adapters which also fit Demco tow bars. Blue Ox D-ring adapters only fit Blue Ox tow bars. You can buy a DIY plug n play wire harness with diodes for lights. All in, my JK was ready to be flat towed for less than $500. For supplemental braking cost/options, you need to determine what you need to be legal in your home jurisdiction only. Once compliant at home, reciprocity takes care of the rest.
 
So I'm ready for the flack on this!

5000 is based on hitch weight. The hitch can handle 500. An equalizer hitch can change that 5000 number!

What concerns me is the warning about the vehicle capacity!!! Most front engine MHs have extended frames, and the joint has been known to fail. This applies to toweds as well as pull trailers.

In short, a class 3 receiver should be capable enough with an equalizer hitch, to pull the trailer loaded with your Jeep!!!! Just remember my warning about that compromised frame!!!
 
There are only three aftermarket bumpers rated for flat towing Jeep Wranglers, RockHard, LOD and Smittybilt. I have the Smittybilt which I installed myself. Roadmaster makes bumper D-ring adapters which also fit Demco tow bars. Blue Ox D-ring adapters only fit Blue Ox tow bars. You can buy a DIY plug n play wire harness with diodes for lights. All in, my JK was ready to be flat towed for less than $500. For supplemental braking cost/options, you need to determine what you need to be legal in your home jurisdiction only. Once compliant at home, reciprocity takes care of the rest.
I am DEFINITELY no expert on this, but I understood supplemental braking requirements had to be met for the specific state you are driving in. Your drivers license requirements fall under the reciprocity agreements but I don't believe that applies to requirements for supplemental braking systems.
 
I have the rockhard bumper on my 2020 rubicon. It is a great hitch.

One thing that is often overlooked is the need to be within 2 inches of center between the RV tow hitch and the bumper centerpoint.

Gas coaches often have a higher hitch receiver than the diesel coaches. I had to use 12" riser hitch from Gen-Y to get mine within 1.5" of center.
 
Regarding Supplemental brakes--I can tell you from personal experience that you want them. I had a breakaway this summer where my front bumper separated from the towbar on one side. This was a very scary moment. I was able to get the vehicle stopped using the one remaining connection, but this was a struggle to do while going down hill on a 2 lane highway. The jeep was in the oncoming lane, and required me to move over to shoulder a lot more than I wanted to. Had it broke away at that point, it would have killed someone in oncoming traffic.

I don't care about the laws, rules, or any other reasoning--Supplemental brakes are just common sense and will save a life.

If my vehicle killed someone because I was too cheap to do it right, I don't think I could live with myself.
 
Regarding Supplemental brakes--I can tell you from personal experience that you want them. I had a breakaway this summer where my front bumper separated from the towbar on one side. This was a very scary moment. I was able to get the vehicle stopped using the one remaining connection, but this was a struggle to do while going down hill on a 2 lane highway. The jeep was in the oncoming lane, and required me to move over to shoulder a lot more than I wanted to. Had it broke away at that point, it would have killed someone in oncoming traffic.

I don't care about the laws, rules, or any other reasoning--Supplemental brakes are just common sense and will save a life.

If my vehicle killed someone because I was too cheap to do it right, I don't think I could live with myself.
What he said!!!!
In the OP's case, he is trying to tow a Jeep with a gas motorhome, he will need all the auxiliary braking he can get in a panic stop.
 
This is not necessarily true.
A 3/4 ton gasoline CC pickup can tow more than my MH is rated to tow. The F53 has a beefier chassis and brakes with a similar engine/tranny combo.
My hitch is limited to 5k.
Is my RV? I need to find out...
Please let us know which chassis you have. The Ford F53 is available in 22k, 24k, and 26k versions. I could not find that information on the Georgetown website for your year model. There should be a nameplate with both the GVWR and GCWR. A lot of times it is near the drivers seat.
 
Please let us know which chassis you have. The Ford F53 is available in 22k, 24k, and 26k versions. I could not find that information on the Georgetown website for your year model. There should be a nameplate with both the GVWR and GCWR. A lot of times it is near the drivers seat.
If you had scrolled down to the next post, you would have seen the chassis info. The plate does not list GCWR.
 
So I'm ready for the flack on this!

5000 is based on hitch weight. The hitch can handle 500. An equalizer hitch can change that 5000 number!

What concerns me is the warning about the vehicle capacity!!! Most front engine MHs have extended frames, and the joint has been known to fail. This applies to toweds as well as pull trailers.

In short, a class 3 receiver should be capable enough with an equalizer hitch, to pull the trailer loaded with your Jeep!!!! Just remember my warning about that compromised frame!!!
If the hitch itself is capable of towing 5000 lbs, how is an equalizer hitch going to up that? It may reduce tongue weight, but not overall towing weight.
The extended frame/joint failure is interesting. I'm going to look when it quits raining.
 
If the hitch itself is capable of towing 5000 lbs, how is an equalizer hitch going to up that? It may reduce tongue weight, but not overall towing weight.
The extended frame/joint failure is interesting. I'm going to look when it quits raining.
Basically, I read manufacturers data. Of course I read what applies to my personal needs.

For instance, my class 4 hitch has a tow capacity of 10000 and a tongue of 1000.

However that capacity is increased to 14000 and 1400 respectively when a equalizer hitch is used. Oh! The greatest issue would be twist on the welds that would not be the same therefore the capacity difference!

Typically a class 3 is capable of 8000 and 800. The frame is a big factor that can change ratings drastically! No matter what hitch, the weak link establishes the final number. What the RV number is, is the final and only number you really need to avoid exceeding.

Check with Curt after you know what the RV manufacter has to say.

Personally, I would rather trailer, but I am the oddball! Reason is I value being able to back up, when I make a mistake on my route. Some here know the hassle flat towing can be when that happens! Furthermore what you would pay for an upgraded hitch does not compare to the price to enter the flat tow arena!!!
 

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