AC maybe over working

[ChrisMaggie]

Hello i am just getting ready to go full time. I bought a 2013 Thor ACE 30.1 and have made some minor modes to it . I went out this last weekend, 106f for sat. My AC got very cold during the night but kept tripping the breaker about every hour during the day. I know I should not keep turning the breaker back on too often, I had a new breaker in my parts kit, so my daughter crawled under bed and changed it, hot and sweating job, the ac quite throwing the new breaker. Problem is that it did not seam to make it cool until sunset then cold again. Looking on line it is recommended to make sure there is nothing blocking the roof inlet. So that is on the list before i hit the road again. My question is this common or isolated? Also, does the row of light by the spade fuse light when working or when blown? Mine just stayed out, we checked a few and they were good, so I assume they light when popped. I posted this on the THOR forum page but since I am new here I copied it. I live in KS and plan on going south next month.

 

[Greg and Mary Brannon]

Welcome to the forum!

You mentioned minor mods. Were those electrical? Any that might cause a change in how the A/C operates or how the AC system is loaded?

You said the A/C ran without tripping the breaker once you changed it. Was the new breaker the same amperage as the one that was tripping?

You have one A/C unit? Do you know what its cooling capacity is (BTUs)? How large is your RV?

RV A/Cs often struggle to keep the interiors cool for various reasons. Run down the list of the common things to check and correct to see if they help, but your system may just be insufficient for the extreme temps you were experiencing.

Greg.

 

[d23haynes57]

Instead of guessing you should have a means t measure the power, current being consumed and also the voltage available, under load. Yes, an air conditioner will draw more power due to increased outside temp and also inside temp. Both raise the operating pressure of the refrigerant. Being a 2013 older tech and the AC may not be performing as it should. Have the coils been checked and cleaned? The condenser can be loaded with some dirt and often these have aluminum fins that can corrode and block air flow. For the evaporator inside, a lot of dirt will get past the filter and collect on the coils and fins. Again, remove the filter, look inside with a flashlight, and see what is in there. No next comes the bad part. Do you have one AC or two? If only one you just may not have enough capacity to cool a 31-foot RV. Poor insulation and single pane windows add to the load. For the most part your coach is designed for short term and fair-weather use. You can look at upgrading the AC or add a supplemental. Over cool it at night and try to minimize heat gain and ride out the increased temp during the day. Cover windows. Pick locations where "the weather suits your clothes".

 

[ChrisMaggie]

Welcome to the forum!

You mentioned minor mods. Were those electrical? Any that might cause a change in how the A/C operates or how the AC system is loaded?

You said the A/C ran without tripping the breaker once you changed it. Was the new breaker the same amperage as the one that was tripping?

You have one A/C unit? Do you know what its cooling capacity is (BTUs)? How large is your RV?

RV A/Cs often struggle to keep the interiors cool for various reasons. Run down the list of the common things to check and correct to see if they help, but your system may just be insufficient for the extreme temps you were experiencing.

Greg.

I have a 30.1, the mods were step replacement and swapping the sofa for power seats. CWD did both mods so i assume, yea I know, that they did it correctly .
The new breaker was the same fit form and function.
no idea about BTU's, is that on data plate or on the roof?
I thinking about one of those small wall AC unit that don't need to be plumbed, have you seen those?

- one option for more cool on really hot ones

Still learning a lot. thanks for the quick response.

been trying to update profile but can't add anything.

 

[ChrisMaggie]

Instead of guessing you should have a means t measure the power, current being consumed and also the voltage available, under load. Yes, an air conditioner will draw more power due to increased outside temp and also inside temp. Both raise the operating pressure of the refrigerant. Being a 2013 older tech and the AC may not be performing as it should. Have the coils been checked and cleaned? The condenser can be loaded with some dirt and often these have aluminum fins that can corrode and block air flow. For the evaporator inside, a lot of dirt will get past the filter and collect on the coils and fins. Again, remove the filter, look inside with a flashlight, and see what is in there. No next comes the bad part. Do you have one AC or two? If only one you just may not have enough capacity to cool a 31-foot RV. Poor insulation and single pane windows add to the load. For the most part your coach is designed for short term and fair-weather use. You can look at upgrading the AC or add a supplemental. Over cool it at night and try to minimize heat gain and ride out the increased temp during the day. Cover windows. Pick locations where "the weather suits your clothes".

you say "short term and fair weather" is there one best for long term? Since i only have one AC I'm have the AC unit checked as we speak by a PRO!

 

[d23haynes57]

you say "short term and fair weather" is there one best for long term? Since i only have one AC I'm have the AC unit checked as we speak by a PRO!

Yes, there are motor homes and trailers that are much better suited for weather extremes. Better box, better windows, more and larger AC, Heat, Tanks etc. There are some high-end gassers that come close matching some lower end or mid-range Diesels. Moving up to rigs that be like home. It would really be nice if the industry actually gave ratings for what the temp and time conditions are. As a guide most rigs larger than van-campers that only have a 30 amp feed will have some limitations. 30 feet with a single AC the low 90's and some sun is the limit for cooling. Heating you may be good to just below freezing. Single digits and the teens will be challenging and you will need a lot of propane.

 

[JBright11]

Welcome from another Kansan!
The weather lately will challenge even the better units to keep cool.

 

[T’sOVR&Explore]

Two comments to offer from experiencing mentioned conditions:
1. The led indicator next to 12 vdc fuses in your panel lights up when the fuse is blown.
2. While the roof air is running, meter the voltage by probing one of your outlets inside the rv with a multimeter set to read ac volts. You may find that it is low, like 95 to 100 volts. Low voltage may be your problem, which is why an earlier reply seen here included the recommendation to measure voltage and current under load.

It is slso possible that your compressor's run capacitor or start capacitor is drying up and is no longer the microfarad value that it once was, but generally, you get a no start / won't run condition for that.

Good luck!

 

[sanda]

1. Check the filter on the ceiling.
2. On top of the camper remove the cover and clean the coils.
3. With the AC running measure the hot air return vs. the cold air coming from the unit. It should be colder by +-20 degrees. If it isn't putting out the adequate change you probably need a new AC
4. You must start the ac early in the day to have any chance of it being able to cool the camper.

 

[Kevin D Pem]

Head pressure will be higher in hot temperatures.

This will cause the compressor thermal switch to cycle.

The breaker should be dedicated to the AC circuit.

You say the breaker is where? Is it's location vented?

Breakers have lower ratings at higher temperature, so if the breaker location is hot and unventilated then add some vents.

The AC unit should be able to run 100% duty cycle.

Things to check:

Line voltage when problems are in progress.( Electrical equipment draws more current when supplyed current is below specs). This can result in blown breakers. For the record 5% voltage drop is excessive, and considered brown out conditions.

High temperatures in the electrical room.

In conclusion. RVs are notorious for uneven interior temperatures. This can lead to breaker problems where proper ventilation can improve service reliability. Brown out conditions not only effect reliability, but also reduce equipment life. If you are experiencing Brown outs more equipment is not going to fix anything. There is an auto transformer many use on this forum that will help you with under voltage conditions.

Shade is more effective then AC in lowering power requirements.