Adding extra A/C to Itasca roof.

[Street1954]

I understand the roof construction on the Itasca is a "sandwich" design, luan plywood, rigid foam, fiberglass type matrial roof. So, there are no "structural" supports spanning the roof.
Has anyone added an a/c unit to the rear portion of their Itasca MH? I'm thinking of removing a centered light fixture and cutting the required hole for a new a/c. I plan on concealing the power wire in a "wiremold" type moulding down under the bed and out to the 20 amp pedestal plug. I'm not going to tie this unit into the coach, it will only be used at the campsite.
Does anyone see a problem with this?

 

[Kevin D Pem]

I like the hands on approach.

I would remove a vent flashing inside and study the construction before I took anyone's opinion/word for it.

 

[Underboss]

Can you add two structural members side to side

 

[Street1954]

I like the hands on approach.

I would remove a vent flashing inside and study the construction before I took anyone's opinion/word for it.

Excellent thought, Thank you!

 

[Street1954]

Can you add two structural members side to side

No, they would interfere with the bedroom slide.

 

[d23haynes57]

I will add some electrical considerations. When you pull up to a park power post and you see up to 3 receptacles, those are not 2 x 50, plus 1 x 30 plus 1 x 15 or 20 amps. That would require each post to have an 80 amp service. The 30 and the 20 come from one side each of the 50. If there is only a 30 and a 15-20 amp receptacle, the 30 will still be total available. No value running another circuit for the added AC.
No for the reason not to even consider it. While The connection to the pole is a "temporary" connection, as it enters the RV, considered a dwelling it becomes a service entrance feeder. As such it has to follow all the code requirements for grounding and over current protection. Basically, has to mimic the main service up to the main breaker in the main panel. Wiring inside needs to be the right stuff, not extension cords stuck in place.
Also, maybe consider other AC options such as a mini split. Avoid doing the holes in the roof. Seriously, for the electrical do it right.

 

[Street1954]

I appreciate the response, are you saying I should wire the second a/c to the onboard power distribution circuit? Thereby avoiding the temporary connection at the power pedestal?
Should I then increase the wire size for my incoming power to a 50 amp service cord?

 

[Kevin D Pem]

I assume you have one AC unit. Is that the case?

 

[d23haynes57]

I appreciate the response, are you saying I should wire the second a/c to the onboard power distribution circuit? Thereby avoiding the temporary connection at the power pedestal?
Should I then increase the wire size for my incoming power to a 50 amp service cord?

Going to a 50 amp RV circuit is not just going from 30 amps to 50. it is going from a single 30 amp to a dual 50 amp. Going from 3,600 watts available to 12,500 watts available. Now as good as that sounds it is not an easy upgrade. May need to repalce the panel and most likley the generator transfer switch. Maybe consider a full upgrade package including a 3K inverter/charger and lifepo batteries to feed it. All sorts of options. But back to basics.
A 30 amp properly managed should be able to operate 2 AC's. Coordinated start up and nothing else. What type of fridge do you have? On a 30 amp connection I run the 2 ACs and can usually run the fridge on electric. So yes, connect the new AC to the existing panel if there is an open slot.

 

[Kevin D Pem]

A load center like this mounted in the bay where your shore power is. Can be feed by a 50 amp cord. Feed your current 30 amp load center with one leg and use the other leg for your A/C unit.

Your current AC will be powered by your 30 amp load center the new unit will run only while connected to the pedestal, and not while running your generator.

30 amp service is not sufficient for 2 AC units.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-QO-60-Amp-2-Space-4-Circuit-Outdoor-Main-Lug-Load-Center-with-Non-Metallic-Enclosure-and-Neutral-QO24L60NRNM/100174454

If I lost you hire an electrician.

 

[d23haynes57]

A load center like this mounted in the bay where your shore power is. Can be feed by a 50 amp cord. Feed your current 30 amp load center with one leg and use the other leg for your A/C unit.

Your current AC will be powered by your 30 amp load center the new unit will run only while connected to the pedestal, and not while running your generator.

30 amp service is not sufficient for 2 AC units.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-QO-60-Amp-2-Space-4-Circuit-Outdoor-Main-Lug-Load-Center-with-Non-Metallic-Enclosure-and-Neutral-QO24L60NRNM/100174454

If I lost you hire an electrician.

Some Fleetwoods were creative with a set up where one AC would work on the 30 amp shore and both could run on the 5,500 watt generator. Then there was the switch where you chose the 2nd AC or the microwave.

 

[Kevin D Pem]

Some Fleetwoods were creative with a set up where one AC would work on the 30 amp shore and both could run on the 5,500 watt generator. Then there was the switch where you chose the 2nd AC or the microwave.

If you're pockets are deep enough, there are plenty of options. If I want A/C, My choice would be a two or three zone mini split.

However I don't do as others do. An older rig (determined by 30 amp service), is not worth the effort to do more than minimal. What I offered is a stop gap solution.

The only time it's worth more effort is your rig is a collector item, or antique. Otherwise it's Just another money pit.