Question Charge Line

[Underboss]

It’s relevant though. When I first posted the question, I had a wireless toad light in mind, and I thought perhaps my single wire charge line was not an appropriate application in that setting. I’ve since mentally moved on to a more traditional set up with diodes, etc.

I am going to have to spend some serious time working on perfecting my ESP

 

[CaptainGizmo]

Yup...it's VERY relevant..and here's why/how:

If you have a single wire Charge Kit...which a lot of them are...then the ground (from the coach) has to come from somewhere.

The companies "assume" that ground will come from the coach (7-way)-to-toad (6-way) cord, and from the 6-way pin to Toad ground.

HOWEVER...if you happen to run a wireless brakelight system, then there's no need for that cord for those who don't connect the battery kit.

So, the scenario would exist if someone just wanted to stretch a "single hot wire" from coach to toad, and then expect the towbar's metal on metal connection to act as ground. Yes, it should be ok, but to be the "best", then a dedicated positive and negative/ground should be run. And, however you choose to run that is up to you; whether a simple 2-wire (which is DIRT CHEAP), or the overkill 7-way coiled cord (stupid expensive...especially for the RoadMaster nighthawk version I just had to replace for $130!).

Sorry for any confusion I caused trying to keep it short. (no pun intended).

 

[Underboss]

Color me puzzled as I have no idea why anyone would run a toad without, at minimum a 4 wire umbilical.
I can live with being puzzled

 

[CaptainGizmo]

Color me puzzled as I have no idea why anyone would run a toad without, at minimum a 4 wire umbilical.
I can live with being puzzled

Don’t be. Many vehicles can be towed just fine not being charged. And, with a wireless brake light, there is ZERO reason else-wise to have any type of wired connection!

In fact, I’ve towed my ‘21 Trailhawk bare-naked for a couple years now.

 

[Underboss]

Don’t be. Many vehicles can be towed just fine not being charged. And, with a wireless brake light, there is ZERO reason else-wise to have any type of wired connection!

In fact, I’ve towed my ‘21 Trailhawk bare-naked for a couple years now.

A braking system comes to mind. There are systems that do not require a wired connection like NSA ........but .......

 

[TheLooks]

This is still going on? I had a magnetic taillight kit on mine that ran from the 7 pin thru a 4 pin flat blade. NO connection to the toad. My EvenBrake only had a disconnect switch and NO connection to anything but the toad with a 12v power port and it picked its ground up thru the disconnect kit. SO, I had to run a wire and it did NOT ground thru the hitch, period. Even after driving for 3 days. After running a ground wire, it charged very well. I added a 10 amp diode in the line but it really was not necessary as its job is to prevent backfeed and with the lithium in the coach it was not going to happen. I removed it after a week.

 

[CaptainGizmo]

A braking system comes to mind. There are systems that do not require a wired connection like NSA ........but .......

No buts ‘bout it…yup. Like the BO Patriot, RVI, etc., none REQUIRE any connect to the coach. @TheLooks gave the perfect example the absolute minimal, easiest, and least invasive solution for charging if desired.

 

[Fatboy2004]

So, I'm guessing this is why my jeep has had a dead battery when I get to where I'm going ?

 

[CaptainGizmo]

So, I'm guessing this is why my jeep has had a dead battery when I get to where I'm going ?

Yup. And the odd thing is, some model years were fine, and I have one friend with a ‘21 (IIRC) who had random issues of a dead jeep…until I helped him hook up his charge line.

I did quite a bit of research a couple years ago and concluded that it has to do with the way the Jeep’s LED lighting system works. It has a monitoring system that will run through a form of diagnostics that causes the monitor to wake up on occasion. Seems hard to believe that LEDs and a solid-state computer would cause that kind of drain, but that’s what the best sources and experts concluded.

One gent went into business creating a special wiring harness that would prevent this anomaly. But, a simple charge line solves the problem.

 

[Fatboy2004]

Yup. And the odd thing is, some model years were fine, and I have one friend with a ‘21 (IIRC) who had random issues of a dead jeep…until I helped him hook up his charge line.

I did quite a bit of research a couple years ago and concluded that it has to do with the way the Jeep’s LED lighting system works. It has a monitoring system that will run through a form of diagnostics that causes the monitor to wake up on occasion. Seems hard to believe that LEDs and a solid-state computer would cause that kind of drain, but that’s what the best sources and experts concluded.

One gent went into business creating a special wiring harness that would prevent this anomaly. But, a simple charge line solves the problem.

My 2015 Willy's had no trouble. . the 2022 Sahara does. So when does this happen ?(until I helped him hook up his charge line)

 

[TheLooks]

I believe the key must be in a position to unlock the front wheels. If in this position anything is turned on, it will drain the battery. My old TJ had a new battery and nothing else was on, but the Evenbrake pumping up its air tank, depending on how much braking is going on, would bring it down.

 

[CaptainGizmo]

My 2015 Willy's had no trouble. . the 2022 Sahara does. So when does this happen ?(until I helped him hook up his charge line)

As I’ve mentioned, it’s been pretty frustrating for Jeep owners. Even the SAME owner can have mixed experiences with the SAME Jeep. Best I can tell you is, from the vast research I did on his behalf, it seemed to be around 2020-21, perhaps a couple years earlier, when the wheels came off. (That’s probably not a very good pun, here…but I like it. LOL)

Again, the “belief” from experts who’ve drilled down pretty hard, is that it has to do with the LED taillight’s constant diagnostics/active monitoring.

 

[redbaron]

Captain gizmo is correct. The true cause of the problem is with LED lights. The circuit that detects a burned out or disconnected LED bulb is to blame, as that circuit gets activated and triggers the ECU and then the ECU remains awake for up to two minutes. Every time one of the lights turns on it triggers this process.

The fix is to disconnect that diode or to add a charge line. I chose to add the charge line.