Damaged spindle ok?

[gephro]

My trailer isn't that old but wow has it been problematic. The current issue is that the bearings on one wheel of the 3500 lb LCI axle self destructed and as usual, I didn't realize it and drove a few miles before another car pointed out the clouds of white smoke behind me.

Anyway, I disassembled it and here's the spindle. Since the bearings are enclosed in a hardened ring that goes around the spindle, I'm wondering if I can still use it with a new brake assembly (new races, bearings, brakes, drum, and all that). I can't find this exact spindle for sale and I don't know if I could find someone to weld it on (trailer shop said no already), so if all that fails, I'll have to buy a new axle. And of course, it's a "custom" axle, not off the shelf specs.
Here's the pics - if you've got experience with this sort of thing, I'd love to get your input. I wouldn't hesitate to try it except for what a royal pain it is when you break down with a tall trailer on the side of the highway during construction, can't find anyone to tow it, then have to hang up the spring pivot so you can lift the hub off the ground 6" and drive it home at 30MPH. Essentially all the bearing needs to do on the spindle is stay put.
Thanks,
-Jeff

 

[Joe Hogan]

If you are home in Warren, there appears to be many fabricators around that could weld on a set of fresh spindles. Or you could just replace the axle assemblies with new complete assemblies of similar dimensions.
To answer your question, with my limited experience with trailers, I would not trust the spindle for reliable service.

This is bread and butter work for a good welder.

 

[gephro]

If you are home in Warren, there appears to be many fabricators around that could weld on a set of fresh spindles. Or you could just replace the axle assemblies with new complete assemblies of similar dimensions.
To answer your question, with my limited experience with trailers, I would not trust the spindle for reliable service.

This is bread and butter work for a good welder.
]

Wow nice relevant video - I've seen some of that guy's other stuff. Thanks for the feedback on the spindle, I'm going to look hard for the correct one and a fabricator.

 

[Kevin D Pem]

Center back side of axle should have a axle serial number, with the manufacturer name. .

I see the inner race is still on the spindle!! Did it weld itself on, or have you tried to remove it???

The problem with welding on a new spindle would be not having a fixture to establish proper alignment. Even a slight misalignment will destroy tires in no time.

I would take a picture of the manufacturer plate described above and get a new axle, you will sooner rather than later if you try any other approach.

 

[gephro]

If you are home in Warren, there appears to be many fabricators around that could weld on a set of fresh spindles. Or you could just replace the axle assemblies with new complete assemblies of similar dimensions.

Further complicatons with doing this - the spindle is very very difficult to align and I can't find the correct spindle (thought I had it, but it's not the same). I'll be going for the axle I guess.

Center back side of axle should have a axle serial number, with the manufacturer name. .

I see the inner race is still on the spindle!! Did it weld itself on, or have you tried to remove it???

The problem with welding on a new spindle would be not having a fixture to establish proper alignment. Even a slight misalignment will destroy tires in no time.

I would take a picture of the manufacturer plate described above and get a new axle, you will sooner rather than later if you try any other approach.

Yep, have the axle number. It's not a "standard" axle. That race is indeed welded on and I haven't tried hard to remove it yet. I think I'll just consider the spindle toast. And misalignment is looking to be a big problem with how the spindle is designed (it has no parallel surfaces to align to the axle). I have an email into Lippert now, as well as a local dealer waiting to hear back.
Thanks everybody!
-Jeff

 

[Bigblockyeti]

How does the inner race of a new outer bearing fit on the damaged section of the spindle? If it's chewed up to the point too much clearance is there, that's certainly going to have to be fixed. If there's a tiny interference fit or snug slip fit, you might still be OK. It looks like the bottom of the spindle where the grease seal slides might be scuffed up a bit to, that needs to be pretty smooth and clean or it will slice up a fresh seal very quickly.

 

[gephro]

How does the inner race of a new outer bearing fit on the damaged section of the spindle? If it's chewed up to the point too much clearance is there, that's certainly going to have to be fixed. If there's a tiny interference fit or snug slip fit, you might still be OK. It looks like the bottom of the spindle where the grease seal slides might be scuffed up a bit to, that needs to be pretty smooth and clean or it will slice up a fresh seal very quickly.

I think it's chewed up too badly. To be sure I'd have to try and see, but I really don't want to get stuck on the side of the road again - it was lucky I was only 11 miles from home when it failed. I could not find anyone that would tow it - even the places with trailers for it wouldn't because it'd be too tall. I am awaiting a quote on an axle from LCI at the moment.
Changing gears, so to speak, I see a few things that conflict with my idea of how wheel bearing (preload?) is set - I've always tightened the nut while going back and forth just until I get some resistance. I back it off and re-do it a few times to make sure everything's set in place. Once I feel it's set, I tighten until I get a little resistance and then back off enough to get the cotter pin in (up to 1/6th turn). That sound right to everyone?

 

[Bigblockyeti]

That's pretty close to how I do it with a 3500lb axle, I typically will torque it down to 6-7lbft. while spinning. It can get tricky relying on resistance if you're dealing with a drum brake hub with shoes close to where they should be. I will also get the cotter pin through the castle nut as close I can to tightened as much as I can with my fingers, this may mean running it just a little tighter or just a little looser. With heavier axles, be it 5200lb, 7K up to a full floating Rockwell or Meritor, it's a bit tighter due in no small part to the fact that some of these bearings on a big axle are, well, big.

 

[gephro]

Just an update - I ordered an axle (LCI35-SB-86.5-68.5-NOSP-OS-L-545-7242-30PT) from ICL for $561 + shipping - it was not an off-the-shelf one, so they have to build it. It's a complete axle with springs, hubs, and brakes. I don't need the springs but it's included. They said it'd be 5 days to build and then a few days to ship. If the planets are in alignment it will be here Friday, I'll install it that evening, then be on the road Saturday morning (it ALWAYS works that way for me - fixing stuff until the last minute).
I have the front axle's spindles torn down and cleaned up, new bearings/seals on order (even though the bearings and races looked great), new grease caps. I'm taking the drums in today to get turned. I should finish the fronts before the axle gets here.
I need to call ICL again and ask what kind of grease they use - I want to use a compatible one.
So a tight timetable, but on track
-Jeff

 

[Rich W.]

Just an update - I ordered an axle (LCI35-SB-86.5-68.5-NOSP-OS-L-545-7242-30PT) from ICL for $561 + shipping - it was not an off-the-shelf one, so they have to build it. It's a complete axle with springs, hubs, and brakes. I don't need the springs but it's included. They said it'd be 5 days to build and then a few days to ship. If the planets are in alignment it will be here Friday, I'll install it that evening, then be on the road Saturday morning (it ALWAYS works that way for me - fixing stuff until the last minute).
I have the front axle's spindles torn down and cleaned up, new bearings/seals on order (even though the bearings and races looked great), new grease caps. I'm taking the drums in today to get turned. I should finish the fronts before the axle gets here.
I need to call ICL again and ask what kind of grease they use - I want to use a compatible one.
So a tight timetable, but on track
-Jeff

Probably the best choice considering the risk of being stranded somewhere. I’ve cut “welded” races off before and successfully fitted a new bearing with no issues, but for the cost in this case its not worth the risk of being stranded miles from home.