Electric trailer brake issues

[TrevorMcNeill]

New to the forum so I hope this was the right place to post. Long story short one of my trailer brakes is having issues that when the brake drum is attached it I don't get a "Trailer connected" pop-up on the dash but if I remove it so that the brake is exposed then it works as intended and the magnet gets power(when brake is applied). Any ideas on what would cause this? Probably will get a new set of brakes but wanted to check for any ideas first. Thanks!

 

[Bob K4TAX]

Speculation The magnet contacts the drum and the magnet is worn such that the coil comes in contact with the drum. Careful examination of the magnet is suggested.

Also, make sure the 7-pin connector for the tow vehicle is wired correctly. There are drawings available and the cable wiring should be standard. Usually, the 7-pin cable terminates into a junction box or terminal strip usually under the front of the trailer. Let's hope a previous owner has not tampered with the wiring.

Bob

 

[Kevin D Pem]

You have left out a bunch of info.

How many axles? OK that really doesn't matter, but you left out whether or not you set your brake controller for the number of axles,this may make a difference.

I would guess you had the problem and that is why you're poking around. If the display is telling you the brakes are not connected you have an open. One brake assembly will not cause an open in the entire circuit, only the one wheel assembly.

So! Do all brakes activate? (Looking for the open here)..
Hope this will get you looking at the whole picture.

The wire flex can cause a wire to brake. Won't cause a brake error if only one wire fails though, you need an open to get the error.

 

[TrevorMcNeill]

So to answer both of you its dual axle but only one set of brakes on the rear, the right side works as intended(once I can get a trailer connected). the wiring is good, I ran new cable from the plug to both brakes as I had some 10awg laying around and the existing wasn't in the best shape and I suspected that was the issue(plus I am very electrically inclined). it is all wired correctly as I checked myself and the rest of the trailer works as intended(lights ect.). to clarify this is also just a 2021 Car hauler trailer so bare bones setup and not much electrically to go wrong. I am curious with maybe the magnet is just too worn as that would make sense as to how it is pretty much shorting out once the drum is on as that is what I assumed was happening but wasn't sure how.

PS yeah in my case I am using a 2012 chevy 2500 with ITBC so the brake controller is very basic and doesn't care about the number of axles lol

 

[TrevorMcNeill]

After inspecting it does look as if I can start to see what looks like the coil starting to be exposed. Once I get some time I'll put some electrical tape on it and see if that solves it, at least I'll know what caused it but at about $100 for a set im for just replacing the brake assembly anyways

 

[sanda]

Check with a brake and clutch shop. I needed to replace magnets on my TT. Each magnet was $66.00. The complete backing plate was $99.00. New magnet, brake shoes, and hardware. It was a no Brainer for me as the shoes had about 30% left on them.

 

[Cool Javelin]

Hi Trevor, Did you ever get your issue fixed? I'd be curious what it was.

I looked at that pix you uploaded, and I didn't see any wire poking out. If any wear cut through the wire, then the coil would be open, and it wouldn't work.

From what I see, the light parts (center perforated rectangle with X hole and outer shell) are the iron core, the light gray doughnut part would be the epoxy encapsulated coil, and I guess the black square is the mount.

Mark.