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External Ground?

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Dan_Frisbie

RVF VIP
Joined
Aug 4, 2022
Messages
377
Location
Wausau, Florida
RV Year
2025
RV Make
Brinkley
RV Model
G3520
RV Length
40’ 3”
We live in Florida and experience many electrical storms. I have never had any lightning strikes hit me, my house, any of my vehicles, or any other buildings that I own or use (that I know of).
During a recent storm in which we had several very close strikes, I wondered if an additional ground rod attached to the RV barn and to the RV chassis would be a good idea. It could be a simple quick connect to the RV.
Anyone else consider this?
 
By code, your barn should have a ground. With the RV inside your barn, you may end up with some very weird things going on on your coach electrical if you try to attach it to a ground rod - not to mention providing an additional pathway for a nearby ground strike to reach the MH. I assume you connect with a surge suppressor to your barn shore power? Might give this a read: Grounding
 
By code, your barn should have a ground. With the RV inside your barn, you may end up with some very weird things going on on your coach electrical if you try to attach it to a ground rod - not to mention providing an additional pathway for a nearby ground strike to reach the MH. I assume you connect with a surge suppressor to your barn shore power? Might give this a read: Grounding
Absolutely! Give it a read. Don't give more than one ground path.
 
By code, your barn should have a ground. With the RV inside your barn, you may end up with some very weird things going on on your coach electrical if you try to attach it to a ground rod - not to mention providing an additional pathway for a nearby ground strike to reach the MH. I assume you connect with a surge suppressor to your barn shore power? Might give this a read: Grounding
The pole barn is not wired at all. The power plug-in is on my garage, which is wired to code and is literally a foot away from the pole barn.
Yes, I use the Power Watchdog anytime my rig is plugged in and it stays powered at home.
Your link is bad, it leads right back to this thread.
 
The pole barn is not wired at all. The power plug-in is on my garage, which is wired to code and is literally a foot away from the pole barn.
Yes, I use the Power Watchdog anytime my rig is plugged in and it stays powered at home.
Your link is bad, it leads right back to this thread.
Sorry about the link. Try here Grounding. But is moot with knowing it is an unpowered open pole barn. Your power system should be grounded at your house/garage. Perhaps the approach would be lighting protection on your barn. Basically it is aerial terminals all interconnected and bonded to a cable system which is taken to a ground. Probably best to discuss with a licensed electrician or a registered professional electrical engineer.
 
The pole barn is not wired at all. The power plug-in is on my garage, which is wired to code and is literally a foot away from the pole barn.
Yes, I use the Power Watchdog anytime my rig is plugged in and it stays powered at home.
Your link is bad, it leads right back to this thread.
Are you using an extension cord (temporary use only) going from the garage to the Pole Barn? Bring power into another building. And then connected to the RV? Maybe time for some power and lights in the Pole barn and receptacle for the RV inside. I wish I had the pole barn.
 
The pole barn, if it has a metal roof, can become a fairly effective lightning shielding “carapace” that is less likely to allow a strike to attach itself to your camper if you can electrically join the roof sheets together and ground it all with enough significantly sized downlead conductors to rods that are long enough to be effective (reaching into “not powder dry” subsoil).

Getting everything up there bonded together electrically and paying for the lengthy amounts of large conductors and ground rods required won’t be cheap, though. And Exothermic Welding of connections, a sort of “Bless this Holy Hand Grenade” joining technique that surprises customers who never saw it done previously (Monty Python Holy Grail Reference!) is preferable for lasting, effective connections in some of what needs done in grounding work vs. relying on bolted or clamped connections.

Of course once you achieve a well earthed bonded roof with uniformly distributed down lead conductors, the random chance of getting struck by being just one of many things in your neighborhood area that the lightning could attach to, may change to where your roof may be electrically "more available” as a target for lightning to attach to.

In my misspent youth, lightning gave me an up close understanding of being electrically “more available” in 1973 on the Intracoastal waterway during a serious afternoon thunderstorm. On a 14 foot catamaran, tossed in whitecaps, soaked to the skin, me and another pal, Roger, from our high school, heard an intense frying sound get going from the top of the sailboat’s mast; us out in the channel, plunging mightily through the wild chop at speed, from just a half-raised jib that we still had up by itself. We had no motor and were unable to get off the water in time. (Saw it coming.. wind direction not initially against us, stupidity of our youthfulness…)

The frying noise began to reduce after a bit as the broad, black-fronted storm went onward over us. We got to shore and thanked God to not have been struck out there. Roger went on to become an Air Force Pilot, but refused to boat with me ever again.. If it had been night, we probably would have seen the ionization trail that was going up into the sky from our mast. A golfer told me years later that he would not have been afraid to boat with me like that, but would insist on bringing along a nine iron. I asked him why. He claimed that not even God could hit a nine iron… I am not convinced of that!
 

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