2024 Grand Design Momentum 22MAV. Furrion battery monitor shows 25.x% and not actively charging. Plugged into 120V, and has full sun all day on the solar. This system worked fine for the first 14 months we owned the rig (from new), and in the last two months I’ve replaced the battery twice (stock one went dry…my mistake) and have now replaced the converter three times. The first converter I think actually went bad, but now even the one I replaced yesterday has the fault light come on immediately upon connecting 12VDC.
The shore power is almost always connected through a surge protector. Perhaps worth noting, I did plug into 240 at my house where the surge protector noted an open neutral and the main breaker in the RV tripped; I haven’t plugged into that same outlet between the 2nd and 3rd converter failure.
When plugged into shore power, pos and neg at the converter read 13.6; when disconnected from shore, they read 12.9. Battery reads 13.6 when connected or disconnected, and the wires at the battery read 13.6 when disconnected. The battery is brand new. The two 40amp fuses in the panel are both good. The breaker for the converter is not tripped. Battery disconnect switch is not disconnected. I have also tried disconnecting the battery, removing all fuses, reconnecting the battery, and replacing the fuses 1 by 1 – starting with the 40A, the red light immediately comes on. If I disconnect the red and black wires going to the DC panel, turn power back on, I do not get 13.6V; multimeter just reads “1 “.
I did find (just Wednesday) what my RAM dealer and I suspected to be a bad ground connection between the trailer and truck, and replaced the truck receptacle and the trailer 7-pin. Could that have somehow fried wiring?
Is it a matter of somehow checking the wiring between the converter and the battery (which likely means dropping the freaking colorplast)? How likely is it the battery meter is frozen or somehow otherwise stuck on a particular voltage; probably unlikely since the red light is on the converter?
Converter is a WF-style.
The shore power is almost always connected through a surge protector. Perhaps worth noting, I did plug into 240 at my house where the surge protector noted an open neutral and the main breaker in the RV tripped; I haven’t plugged into that same outlet between the 2nd and 3rd converter failure.
When plugged into shore power, pos and neg at the converter read 13.6; when disconnected from shore, they read 12.9. Battery reads 13.6 when connected or disconnected, and the wires at the battery read 13.6 when disconnected. The battery is brand new. The two 40amp fuses in the panel are both good. The breaker for the converter is not tripped. Battery disconnect switch is not disconnected. I have also tried disconnecting the battery, removing all fuses, reconnecting the battery, and replacing the fuses 1 by 1 – starting with the 40A, the red light immediately comes on. If I disconnect the red and black wires going to the DC panel, turn power back on, I do not get 13.6V; multimeter just reads “1 “.
I did find (just Wednesday) what my RAM dealer and I suspected to be a bad ground connection between the trailer and truck, and replaced the truck receptacle and the trailer 7-pin. Could that have somehow fried wiring?
Is it a matter of somehow checking the wiring between the converter and the battery (which likely means dropping the freaking colorplast)? How likely is it the battery meter is frozen or somehow otherwise stuck on a particular voltage; probably unlikely since the red light is on the converter?
Converter is a WF-style.
