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For all AC and RV electrical folks - puzzling AC question…

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Rich W.

Retired Fire Chief
RVF Supporter
Joined
Jan 19, 2021
Messages
3,610
Location
Rosemary Farm
RV Model
Between RVs
TOW/TOAD
Toadless
Fulltimer
No
I just had a new 15k btu heat pump installed this morning. We function tested it after the install and all seemed well. But this afternoon while setting up in a camp ground it tripped the 20 amp breaker (rear AC breaker) after about 10 minutes. So I ran it again and looked at the EMS (Precision Circuits Power Control System) and while running it’s drawing 27 amps thus the 20 amp breaker tripping. By comparison the front AC pulls 13 amps.

So any ideas about what would make a brand new unit do this? Im heading back there tomorrow morning (about 100 miles) and will arrive around 9 am. I was there before 5:00 this morning to have the new unit installed. Its a new unit, two year warranty, so Im not too worried, just really inconvenienced and somewhat irritated and would appreciate any information that might help resolve this. Im a bit concerned about how tomorrow morning will go.

The new unit: Dometic Product # 970003835, model # 651916HXX1J0-01
 
Compressor is bad. They draw High amperage when they don't have proper freon levels, and these are sealed unit's
 
Compressor is bad. They draw High amperage when they don't have proper freon levels, and these are sealed unit's
On a brand new unit? Its all I can think of too. Fortunately they have more in stock. Guess I’ll find out in a few hours.
 
I googled the model number and after a few hits I found it shows 12.5A rating.

Dometic Penguin II 15.000 BTU Black Low Profile Rooftop RV Air Conditioner • 651916HXX1J0-01

I'm not sure what could be causing the issue.
Yeah that's the unit. The old one was 12.9. And the front reads 13 on the Precision Circuits display. I didnt get up there with my meter, but given the close-enough reading for the front unit, I‘m inclined to trust the reading on the rear. Getting ready to bug out of a very pleasant quiet little campground to head back to Shipshewana.
 
On a brand new unit? Its all I can think of too. Fortunately they have more in stock. Guess I’ll find out in a few hours.
Out of the box bad makes sense. It is terrible, since you just did all the work and have to redo it.
 
I was thinking same thing, defective unit or something is wired wrong.
 
They are thinking its over charged from the factory - can’t verify that with gauges because its a sealed unit, but they eliminated everything else. So as long as Dometic doesn't object they are going to swap it out with another new one.

It was still pulling 23 amps in the shade at 9am. I guess Im fortunate that they can get to it and have more in stock. I also wouldn’t be surprised if they add another element to their system check before they send these out in the future.

It was interesting watching the young tech try to explain electricity to my retired electrical/electronic engineer wife. She just politely nodded her head and didn’t say anything. On days like this I take my amusement where I can get it.
 
As I've often stated, "new guarantees new, but not necessarily good". That's why the warranty exists.
 
Where do you take it in Shipshewana?
 
Im at National RV Refrigeration. Its an Amish shop and they do good work, have great customer service, but they are dealing with Dometic, Norcold, and other problematic products. But if you ever need an RV refrigerator this is the place. Lots of inventory and better proces than anywhere else. They can also fix almost any older RV refrigeration equipment. They are repairing a basement air unit on an older class A right now. They hope to have another new unit on my roof in the next couple hours.
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Thanks, never thought of them for A/C - makes sense.
 
Well I was back on the road by 2:30 this afternoon which isnt bad considering they had to trouble-shoot the unit, then convince Dometic it was bad (probably over-charged from the factory), and still service all the other customers with appointments today. We are now just chillin (literally) in a somewhat large and busy, but nonetheless quiet and restful enough park in Shipshewana (Eby’s Pines) enjoying things operating as they should.
 

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As the compressor builds pressure it is normal for the current demand to increase as well. Yep, overcharge will cause the compressor to draw more amps. Likewise, undercharge will draw fewer amps.

I noticed ours this morning when the compressor kicked on was drawing about 10 amps and after about 2 minutes it was up to 12 amps. Add 2.0 amps to these numbers for the fan and thus total current demand. I consider this to be a normal operation.
 
I just had a new 15k btu heat pump installed this morning. We function tested it after the install and all seemed well. But this afternoon while setting up in a camp ground it tripped the 20 amp breaker (rear AC breaker) after about 10 minutes. So I ran it again and looked at the EMS (Precision Circuits Power Control System) and while running it’s drawing 27 amps thus the 20 amp breaker tripping. By comparison the front AC pulls 13 amps.

So any ideas about what would make a brand new unit do this? Im heading back there tomorrow morning (about 100 miles) and will arrive around 9 am. I was there before 5:00 this morning to have the new unit installed. Its a new unit, two year warranty, so Im not too worried, just really inconvenienced and somewhat irritated and would appreciate any information that might help resolve this. Im a bit concerned about how tomorrow morning will go.

The new unit: Dometic Product # 970003835, model # 651916HXX1J0-01
Could be loose wire or having compressor having hard time trying to start
 

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