Freshwater pump off-line trying to figure out why need help

[TXheat]

We recently acquired a holiday rambler endeavor 2003 model and the water pump functions but one of the wires was disconnected when plugged in it goes on, it doesn’t seem to be way to turn it off the low side 10 amp latching controller was also disconnected and the board seems like it may have suffered water damage so maybe that’s why the pump can’t be turned off? I should mention that all the switches that controlled pump are the kind that you push and they go back in a position not where it goes into a lower position and an upper position for on and off. I don’t know if that has any bearing?

As you can see in the photos, the connectors that go to the pump I plugged up, bypassing the freshwater tank connection. I tried to connect back the pump to the connections that are plugged up and there isn’t enough slack between the two pipes to connect it but I can’t figure out how else the pump is supposed to be connected. I’m including photos to help figure this out if anyone has the time. Thanks.

 

[Kevin D Pem]

Your problems are only just starting! I see both people a and b in the picture and they aren't compatible.

On the pump end is a pressure switch. There are two terminals. One end goes to the power, the other goes to the motor. These switches go bad. If it's bad you have two options. 1) replace the pump, or 2) get a well pump pressure switch from the hardware store. Of course you will need a 't' in the pex for the switch.

 

[GTS225]

Perhaps we should first ask.........was the pump connected into the plumbing system when you took delivery?

Kevin's correct in what he said, but......it appears that you're attempting to operate the pump without water, or even being connected to the plumbing. If any one of those push-button pump switches are in the on position, it will attempt to run until it builds pressure in a closed system....that's how the pressure switch is set up. That way, it keeps pressure in the camper's system at all times, ready when you need it without you having to wait for the pump to catch up to the demand. I can't help you with that latching relay, except to say my 5th wheel does not have one of those in the circuit.

Kevin says the fittings for the pump don't look like they're compatible. Will they actually connect to the pump ports individually? If so, I would think there's enough "play" in the piping to get them both connected to the appropriate ports.
Now, our advice may not take into account any modifications a previous owner may have hacked together in the name of expedient field repairs.

Roger

 

[TXheat]

Your problems are only just starting! I see both people a and b in the picture and they aren't compatible.

On the pump end is a pressure switch. There are two terminals. One end goes to the power, the other goes to the motor. These switches go bad. If it's bad you have two options. 1) replace the pump, or 2) get a well pump pressure switch from the hardware store. Of course you will need a 't' in the pex for the switch.

There you are again coming to the rescue, I think you meant to say something else cuz he said I see both people A and B? I I can only infer you meant to say pipes A and B. So if I have to replace the pump I can take the good pump I have in my other RV and use that since it's not being used or just get the pressure switch and a T.

 

[TXheat]

Perhaps we should first ask.........was the pump connected into the plumbing system when you took delivery?

Kevin's correct in what he said, but......it appears that you're attempting to operate the pump without water, or even being connected to the plumbing. If any one of those push-button pump switches are in the on position, it will attempt to run until it builds pressure in a closed system....that's how the pressure switch is set up. That way, it keeps pressure in the camper's system at all times, ready when you need it without you having to wait for the pump to catch up to the demand. I can't help you with that latching relay, except to say my 5th wheel does not have one of those in the circuit.

Kevin says the fittings for the pump don't look like they're compatible. Will they actually connect to the pump ports individually? If so, I would think there's enough "play" in the piping to get them both connected to the appropriate ports.
Now, our advice may not take into account any modifications a previous owner may have hacked together in the name of expedient field repairs.

Roger

Yes it would appear that way, considering that the tank does appear to be empty and I will be adding water to it today after I repair the intake hose. I didn't realize that about the pressure but that does make sense, there is very little play, one end can be connected but not the other so you have to wonder if there indeed you hit the nail on the head that there may have been a mod done to expedite field repairs, if that's the case I'll just have to make sure that it's done right. As far as a latching relay goes I can't go on the assumption that it's good until I have the pump connected properly and the pressure switch is working properly so but if need be I can replace that only about $25 part. I do have a working Shurflo pump that I can try in place of this pump so that will probably be the first order of business.

 

[Kevin D Pem]

There you are again coming to the rescue, I think you meant to say something else cuz he said I see both people A and B? I I can only infer you meant to say pipes A and B. So if I have to replace the pump I can take the good pump I have in my other RV and use that since it's not being used or just get the pressure switch and a T.

Yes I typed PEX in lower case Google replaced with???

 

[Kevin D Pem]

'A' and 'B' are not compatible.

 

[TXheat]

Yes I typed PEX in lower case Google replaced with???

Yes it seems that way, ok so your saying A Pex and B Pex are not compatible with the pump?

 

[Kevin D Pem]

Yes it seems that way, ok so your saying A Pex and B Pex are not compatible with the pump?

No! They both would work fine. Both use different fitting and bands. Your electronics likely got wet when someone found that out the hard way!!! Ultimately you will find out the same if you don't correct the issue!

That is why I mentioned the issue. So you can fix it now and save yourself trouble later. Has nothing to do with making the pump work!!! Choose the type that is used inside the coach and correct what has been patched .

both types and their respective tools are sold in my local home depot! May I suggest some YouTube videos on the differences of the two?

 

[TXheat]

So yeah, you’re most likely right about that. I’m guessing electronics being the Low Side unit, that said, I was able to connect both connections to the pump and build up as much pressure as possible with water in the tank,and the switch is occasionally functioning properly. My guess is due to either a faulty pump or like you said the electronics getting wet. The result unfortunately is no water being pumped through the freshwater system. I thought maybe the connectors were reversed and so I tried connecting them in reverse and it seems like the pump is stronger when I did that, but again no fresh water running so my next step is to replace the low side unit in case it’s damaged and swap pumps and see if that solves the problem if it does I’ll just keep the working pump installed. By all means if you know of examples please share them. Thanks