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GFCI’s gone bad

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J&JD

RVF Supporter
Joined
Nov 3, 2019
Messages
2,502
Location
Fremont, California
RV Year
2017
RV Make
Newmar
RV Model
Dutch Star 4018
RV Length
40’
Chassis
Freightliner
Engine
Cummins ISL450
TOW/TOAD
Jeep Wrangler Sahara
Fulltimer
No
I’m now replacing my 3rd GFCI since buying my DS new. Each one on a different circuit/location. They all have just started the red led blinking and would not reset. Seems like one each year goes bad. Anyone else have this many GFCI’s go bad or is it just my bad luck?
 
I have a 2017 4369 and have not replace any GFCI's, maybe you just got a bad batch?
 
Mine is 2015, and never had a problem.
 
Haven’t replaced any either
 
Occasionally have to reset the bathroom/bedroom GFCI, but none have failed.
 
I had to replace one this year in the DS.
 
All, in winter (summer too, when not using RV) go over and run genset to keep batteries up. So in winter, run heat pump feature, last December, zone 2, bedroom, kept tripping off line at AC breaker. So made sure all power off both chassis and house. Removed front breaker panel cover and just tested how tight the screws were holding down the wires, both black - white & green. Every screw head I could get too, I checked for tightness. None were lose exactly, but some I could tweak a little, YOU DO NOT WANT TO OVERTIGHTEN THESE SCREWS. Ever since, no issues with HP in zone 2. So my suggestion is, some wires in ac panel are lose, causing the CGFI's to intermitely lose power, for second or less, this weakens internal circuritery, and eventually they fail. Check all the breakers in AC panel for tightness, (see large capital letters above), you can buy a 1/4' torque screwdriver on AMZN, but if you are careful don't need it. They take a square drive head so make sure you have correct size. There are small ones and big ones, so both sizes might be needed. Remember, RV is nothing but earthquake going down road, things get lose. Also, the quality of the connections in the CGFI's are most likely slip in to groove type, not screw down type from factory, cheapest thing on world. They should be required to use at least the type you slip wire into hole and tighten screw down, they cost about 2 dollars more, multiply that by 20,000 and you see delima here. NEC, (NFPA) does not really have any firm codes on RV's, and they can do about what they want, which is wrong, but until more people die in electrical fires, nothing will change per quality.
 
I certainly must have gotten a bad batch of GFCI’s. This morning neither of my two front heated floors were working. One of the GFI’s above the main breaker panel had a blinking red light and would not reset. Replaced the GFI plug and all is good ( this is the fourth one I have replaced). None of the replaced units have failed, only the original ones.
There are way too many GFCI circuits in this coach IMHO.
 
I hope you screwed down the wires and did not use just the push in type. The push in type, will oxidize over time, causing a higher resistance and the unit to trip more often, then fail, There are/is a type, you push wire in, and then screw down the screw which holds it in place. I always put a little bit of "no-ox-id-special a" electrical grease on any electrical connection I fix, then I know it wont corrode. Hmmm, we pulled apart breaker connections in the substations over 40 years old and the stuff was still on the connection from when initially installed. Know it's good stuff.
 

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