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Hitch help for newbie

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Joined
Nov 9, 2021
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4
Going to pick up our new Prime Time Lacrosse RK3411 this weekend. I will be pulling it with my f250 diesel. My question is which hitch is best and is an anti-sway hitch recommended? Was looking at the Equalizer 1400lb tongue/14000 total weight hitch. Is that a solid unit or is there better? This is a big bumper pull trailer(39ft) and I want a damn good hitch to give me peace of mind. Thanks for helping a new guy out.
 
The hitch weight is 1045 lbs on your travel trailer. The GVWR is under 11,245

You want a 4 point equalizer hitch, that will allow you to reverse.

The 1200/12,000k hitch is the perfect fit for your trailer. The 1400/14k could be too stiff.

This is what I recommend. Double check my numbers above to your actual trailer, as that is what I pulled from the internet. Each trailer is built different, but I doubt the GVWR is much more than the 11,245 listed.

 
The hitch weight is 1045 lbs on your travel trailer. The GVWR is under 11,245

You want a 4 point equalizer hitch, that will allow you to reverse.

The 1200/12,000k hitch is the perfect fit for your trailer. The 1400/14k could be too stiff.

This is what I recommend. Double check my numbers above to your actual trailer, as that is what I pulled from the internet. Each trailer is built different, but I doubt the GVWR is much more than the 11,245 listed.

So there is such a thing as “too stiff”? Gotcha👍 I should also mention that my truck is lifted 4” so I will be getting a no-shank setup and buying the 9” shank and ball separate.
 
So there is such a thing as “too stiff”? Gotcha👍 I should also mention that my truck is lifted 4” so I will be getting a no-shank setup and buying the 9” shank and ball separate.
Yes--that is a good catch.

What I do not know is how a lifted truck will affect the requirements for the hitch rating. I don't think it would matter much, but its worth a call to EqualizerHitch to see if they recommend going up to the next level of 14k or not.
 
The GVWR on a F250 is 10,000lbs, at least it was on my old F250. Be careful not to overload your truck.
 
Usually towing is not an issue. It's the STOPPING that gives one the hebejebies. Pucker factor exceeds 10!
 
Usually towing is not an issue. It's the STOPPING that gives one the hebejebies. Pucker factor exceeds 10!

which is why it is important to not exceed the GCWR. I personally prefer to stay within 80% of GCWR, but this is not always possible.
 
which is why it is important to not exceed the GCWR. I personally prefer to stay within 80% of GCWR, but this is not always possible.
Yep, true. I did the calculations on our tow vehicle and trailer. The killer is not what the vehicle is capable of towing but as you say, the GCWR. In our case, it is, per the placard on the door of the tow, it is 1386 lbs. This is for all occupants and contents. i.e. generator, firewood, table, chairs, cooler, bicycles, grill, toolbox.............and????

Now let's look at this. If the trailer is loaded correctly and to max rated, the hitch weight is 800 lbs. This weight transfers 100% to the tow vehicle. Now add 20 gals of fuel to the tow vehicle for 124 lbs, thus 1386 - 800 -124 = 462 lbs. Now add two occupants 235 + 185 = 420 lbs. Uh oh, now this says we can carry 42 lbs of other stuff.

It is much easier to overload than one would imagine. Bottom line, one MUST know the numbers and not guess and say "oh, it's OK". Have the trailer loaded, weigh it for total weight and separately the hitch weight, and then do the math.

Since we load the trailer light, the gross weight of the trailer is less than stated and likewise, the hitch weight is less than stated. We've weighed it! We know! Yet, we come within 100 lbs of 1386. To use Redbaron value of 80% we should shoot for 1100 lbs total load for the tow vehcile. Guess I have to leave.....uh, ....nah, she won't stand for that!
 
Better 100% than 110%
 

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