Question How to Bypass the ELECTRONIC PARKING BRAKE (EPR)??

[CaptainGizmo]

Well..new vehicles are getting harder and harder to flat-tow. My buddy just asked me if I can find a way to tow their new '23 Escalade without having the stupid EPB kick on.

Of course, the "go-to" out-of-the-box answer that anyone will give you, is to just disconnect the battery. Well, he doesn't wanna do that since it erases all the memories and is a real PITA when you "boot" up again.

So, I'm wondering if there's a hack, bypass module, OBD port dongle, or some way to disable that thing.

FYI: I thought about yanking the physical cable, but apparently the EPB is used in so many other things, including hill hold, and adaptive cruise!

 

[Knobs]

I just did a web search... Will this procedure work?

GM Electronic Parking Brake Procedures

The parking brake control module has an internal motor, apply actuator, release actuator and temperature sensor.

www.brakeandfrontend.com

 

[Kevin D Pem]

Tell your friend to look up Recreational vehicle towing in his owners manual. Also how to disengage the EPB. Same book.

 

[CaptainGizmo]

Thanks guys, I'm cruising through his manual now to do more research for him.

Fact is, this EPB is little bugger and will re-engage unless the battery is disconnected. I see no hack or work-around for that.

As for the goofy procedures others have told him about rolling windows up and down after reconnecting; I've yet to find any refernce of that.

 

[Just George]

@CaptinGizmo Steve, let me start by saying thanks for the forum contributions and videos I've found them quite interesting & helpful.

I know this thread is a bit dated but I'm working essentially the same issue regarding 23 GM battery disconnect options. In my case for a 23 Silverado. I've given up on a hack / work around, there's just too much electronics for me to get comfortable that using some sort of old school preset saver won't allow some unintended consequences.

My current research is regarding disconnect the negative battery cable as directed by the GM manual or can I disconnect the Positive with no ill effects. I'm a retired EE so this is not an electrical question for me. The issue is, in the case of my Silverado there are 2 small wires that remain connected to the Negative battery terminal when the cable specified in the owners manual is removed. So far I've not been able to id what the two wires are supporting.

In my thinking disconnecting the Positive has the advantage of I still have chassis ground, particularly for the tail lights (using blocking diodes etc.).

So I don't have any help for you regarding the battery disconnect work around but I thought perhaps you have settled on and perhaps installed a toad wiring solution. If you have any insight regarding Positive vs Negative disconnect and / or the 2 remaining wires on the Negative battery terminal I would appreciate any info you may be willing to share.

 

[CaptainGizmo]

@CaptinGizmo Steve, let me start by saying thanks for the forum contributions and videos I've found them quite interesting & helpful.

I know this thread is a bit dated but I'm working essentially the same issue regarding 23 GM battery disconnect options. In my case for a 23 Silverado. I've given up on a hack / work around, there's just too much electronics for me to get comfortable that using some sort of old school preset saver won't allow some unintended consequences.

My current research is regarding disconnect the negative battery cable as directed by the GM manual or can I disconnect the Positive with no ill effects. I'm a retired EE so this is not an electrical question for me. The issue is, in the case of my Silverado there are 2 small wires that remain connected to the Negative battery terminal when the cable specified in the owners manual is removed. So far I've not been able to id what the two wires are supporting.

In my thinking disconnecting the Positive has the advantage of I still have chassis ground, particularly for the tail lights (using blocking diodes etc.).

So I don't have any help for you regarding the battery disconnect work around but I thought perhaps you have settled on and perhaps installed a toad wiring solution. If you have any insight regarding Positive vs Negative disconnect and / or the 2 remaining wires on the Negative battery terminal I would appreciate any info you may be willing to share.

Hi George, thank you for extending appreciation!

I just had another friend take his new Yukon Denali to my installer who did an incredible job rigging everything up; baseplates, AF1, and an electric disconnect that works GREAT!

The button triggers a solenoid that breaks the positive cable. Very clean system that you can hardly tell isn’t factory. Sorry these aren’t the best photos, but they are frame-grabs from a video.

Hope this helps…it‘s about as eloquent of a disconnect you can have.

 

[Just George]

@CaptainGizmo Steve thanks for the reply and photos. I recognize the Roadmaster PN766 battery disconnect system. I suspect the Yukon Denali may have similar battery connections as my Silverado. Any chance of getting a photo of the negative battery terminal connection(s). If it has the same set up as my Silverado that would pretty much settle me on disconnecting the positive vs negative. I have chose to use a Blue Sea electronic battery disconnect which is similar to the Roadmaster unit.

Also if you have any specifics on what was used for the taillight wiring I would love to know the details. The taillights are fully LED's and I've read some reports of the standard blocking didoes not working. Who knows could have been bad installs, just looking for some facts.

Thanks again,
George

 

[CaptainGizmo]

@CaptainGizmo Steve thanks for the reply and photos. I recognize the Roadmaster PN766 battery disconnect system. I suspect the Yukon Denali may have similar battery connections as my Silverado. Any chance of getting a photo of the negative battery terminal connection(s). If it has the same set up as my Silverado that would pretty much settle me on disconnecting the positive vs negative. I have chose to use a Blue Sea electronic battery disconnect which is similar to the Roadmaster unit.

Also if you have any specifics on what was used for the taillight wiring I would love to know the details. The taillights are fully LED's and I've read some reports of the standard blocking didoes not working. Who knows could have been bad installs, just looking for some facts.

Thanks again,
George

You’re welcome George. My pro installer is ARROW TRAILER in Ontario, CA. They’ve done my Raptor twice and a couple referrals. All are extremely happy with their work.

Yes, that’s a full RoadMaster system. The cables were from a company in Ventura.
There’s nothing to show other than the lug is disconnected and linked with a bolt then insulated with heat shrink. It fits under the lid and cables are routed through existing factory ports in the box…very clean.

HTH

Here is the kit.

Amazon.com