DavidL
RVF VIP
- Joined
- May 8, 2021
- Messages
- 208
- Location
- Metamora, MI
- RV Year
- 2002
- RV Make
- Newmar
- RV Model
- MountainAire
- RV Length
- 4370
- Chassis
- Spartan K2
- Engine
- Cummins 500hp
- TOW/TOAD
- Grand Cherokee
- Fulltimer
- No
While at the Newmar HOOTs rally, my leveling system decided to not be responsive. While at the campground I did a quick look but didn't find anything obvious....there was fluid, the parking brake was on, no leaks, no smells. So, I decided to just manually retract the legs so we could drive back to Michigan. So, now back in Michigan, took a better look. The fuses were fine on the HWH controller box (velcro strapped under the brake pedal to the firewall). All connectors looked good. Double checked the fluid level and added a half a quart.
I then took the control pad off the driver's window console and brought that into the house.
There was dirt in-between the touch membrane and the switches / LEDs. So cleaned all that up with a toothpick and tissue. The control pad PCB had a little corrosion. So I cleaned all that up and looked for bad solder connections, especially near the connection harness thinking that might be flexing with bumps. Nothing real obvious. I then took a voltmeter and checked each switch for connectivity when the switches were depressed. Aha! the On / Off button was never "On"! So, measured the stem length and ordered an assortment from Amazon. got 200 of them for $8.00. They arrived in a day. Desoldered the old one, cleaned up the pads and soldered a 12mm stem length one (only 199 left for another project!). BTW, the pile of stuff next to the box of switches was the old switch destroyed while pulling it off the board (too lazy to really desolder it well) Tested and now all looks good.
So, took that outside to the RV, plugged er in, and Walla! all operational again! Plus the LED displays all looked nice and bright again from being cleaned on the inside.
Another project off the list. Beats having to buy an expensive component.
I then took the control pad off the driver's window console and brought that into the house.
There was dirt in-between the touch membrane and the switches / LEDs. So cleaned all that up with a toothpick and tissue. The control pad PCB had a little corrosion. So I cleaned all that up and looked for bad solder connections, especially near the connection harness thinking that might be flexing with bumps. Nothing real obvious. I then took a voltmeter and checked each switch for connectivity when the switches were depressed. Aha! the On / Off button was never "On"! So, measured the stem length and ordered an assortment from Amazon. got 200 of them for $8.00. They arrived in a day. Desoldered the old one, cleaned up the pads and soldered a 12mm stem length one (only 199 left for another project!). BTW, the pile of stuff next to the box of switches was the old switch destroyed while pulling it off the board (too lazy to really desolder it well) Tested and now all looks good.
So, took that outside to the RV, plugged er in, and Walla! all operational again! Plus the LED displays all looked nice and bright again from being cleaned on the inside.
Another project off the list. Beats having to buy an expensive component.
