Question Is there a specific type of grease gun needed for Dexter EZ Lube axles?

[osuallen]

I agree with team bradfield. Although this was not on our previous trailer, it seems someone overpacked the Ez-Lube system. See below.

I always pull wheels and pack bearings by hand. That way I can inspect the races and seals and replace them if necessary.

. View attachment 17920

When they had to refill the grease gun the first time, that should have been a clue.

 

[TheLooks]

I saw that picture at school when they were promoting hand packing. No could explain how it could happen other then defective seals or something plugged on the outlet side. Plugging would make a seal defective of course. If I don't have grease coming out when I pump it in, I go looking. As I said, warm and spinning wheel.

 

[kkaos]

Took off the wheel and outer bearing, easily enough. Looking at the inside of the drum/hub (?). I am trying to remove the seal so that I can get to the inside bearing. Got one of these pullers that is supposed to make this job easier, but that hasn't been the case:

https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/seal-puller/p/oemtools-seal-puller/48199_0_0

From what videos I have found on YouTube, at least part of the seal is metal, not just rubber. The puller only seems to be getting a hold of the rubber part, and I don't want to pull hard on that because I am fairly certain that is not all of the seal and that will cause damage, which would make this very difficult to change my mind and take it to someone who works on campers and trailers.

In the picture below, is the seal what is circled in red? Or is it only what is circled in yellow? The yellow is what I am pretty sure is only part of the seal, the rubber part.

Speaking of taking it to someone, there is no one nearby. The nearest Camping World is almost 2 hours away. There's a "family-owned" operation about a half hour away, but when I asked them about performing the work, they said they would likely charge me $800...for the two wheels. From what I've read and watched, I KNOW that's way above the average price for this service. Ugh.

 

[team bradfield]

I have the same tool, I put one hook under the seal, then use it like a hammer pulling a nail, If you bought new seals, just flip the hub over and knock them out with a piece of soft wood (metal will scar the race) and a rubber mallet.

 

[Rich W.]

Took off the wheel and outer bearing, easily enough. Looking at the inside of the drum/hub (?). I am trying to remove the seal so that I can get to the inside bearing. Got one of these pullers that is supposed to make this job easier, but that hasn't been the case:

https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/seal-puller/p/oemtools-seal-puller/48199_0_0

From what videos I have found on YouTube, at least part of the seal is metal, not just rubber. The puller only seems to be getting a hold of the rubber part, and I don't want to pull hard on that because I am fairly certain that is not all of the seal and that will cause damage, which would make this very difficult to change my mind and take it to someone who works on campers and trailers.

In the picture below, is the seal what is circled in red? Or is it only what is circled in yellow? The yellow is what I am pretty sure is only part of the seal, the rubber part.

Speaking of taking it to someone, there is no one nearby. The nearest Camping World is almost 2 hours away. There's a "family-owned" operation about a half hour away, but when I asked them about performing the work, they said they would likely charge me $800...for the two wheels. From what I've read and watched, I KNOW that's way above the average price for this service. Ugh.

View attachment 17936

Yes everything in the red circle is the seal. As stated above, tap it out from the other side with a wood dowel (or a small wood hammer handle) using the inner bearing to push out the seal. Work both sides to push it out evenly. Its probably tight from sitting so long.

Take the seal with you (or just measure it) to a local auto parts store for replacement. You don’t re-use seals so you don’t have to worry about damaging the old ones. There are only a couple different sizes for trailer axles so that should be easy.

And yes your $800 quote is just crazy - they obviously don’t want the work so they bid it high enough to send you elsewhere. You don’t need to take it to anyone though. You’ll get through it and then you’ll have another skill. We all had our first bearing job at some point. Also those seal pullers are a pain and usually just bend if the seal is stuck. I don’t use them.

 

[Kevin D Pem]

I would guess the last seals I bought were about 5 a piece, just plan on replacing them and avoid the stress.

 

[Bob K4TAX]

A 1" wood dowel or a length of wood broom handle is great for driving out the rear bearing and the seal at the same time. The outside bearing likely fell out when you pulled the hub. Just remember to install a NEW seal. You can tap it in carefully all the way around. Just be sure to put the rear bearing in place first and then the seal. It must be flush with the inside ring of the hub. Look at the old one before removal.

I replaced bearings and seals including grease for less than $75. It takes a couple of hours to remove the hubs, clean everything, pack the new bearing, and reassemble and adjust to torque specs. Then adjust the brakes and install the tires.

Be sure to clean all of your tools and hands. They will get dirty and greasy.

Bob

 

[Bob K4TAX]

I did read somewhere that the zerk could be stopped up, and I bet that is the case since I haven't ever changed the grease. I'll repack the bearings by hand at this point. Maybe I'll try the EZ Lube system again next year, but if repacking isn't really difficult, I might just keep doing that.

Thank yall for the advice.

Yes, always wipe off the outside of the Zerk so as not to push dirt into the bearing area.

 

[kkaos]

So now I'm wondering if I need to go to all this trouble. Although we have had this travel trailer for three years, we don't take it far and not very often. Last year, we took it on 3 or 4 trips, and I would say the mileage for the year was less than 1000 miles. The year before, the usage was similar. For the first year, we might have taken it for 6 trips. Overall, I'd say we've put no more than 4000 miles of usage on the trailer.

Although I do see some black (dirty) grease, I also still see a lot of red (clean). Also, I mentioned my usage of the trailer to someone recently, and he said that given how seldom the trailer is used, a couple squirts of fresh grease with the grease gun for each wheel per year should be good enough.

Is that sound advice? How often do yall add grease or repack?

Also, I went ahead and put the tire back on yesterday, making sure that the outer bearing, washer, and nut were added in the correct order beforehand. I had hand-tightened the nut and tested rotating the wheel. It would turn smoothly for about a rotation or two before getting a bit stiff, then smooth for another rotation or two, and then get a bit stiff again. The only way to get the wheel to not feel stiff was to loosen the nut to where it really isn't hand-tight at all. That doesn't seem right. Shouldn't the nut at least be hand-tight and the wheel still be able to turn smoothly?

 

[Rich W.]

A couple pumps per year is usually enough. If its been a long time since the bearings have had any attention, repacking them is a good idea. Since its a fairly new trailer and you are apparently the orig owner, normal maint with the bearing buddies should be fine.

On the axle nut, you first set the pre-load on the bearing by tightening the nut. With the nut loose, get the wheel spinning and then tighten the nut until it slows, then another 1/4 turn or so. Then turn the wheel a few times. That gets grease where its needed and firms everything up. Then loosen the nut and run it down hand tight, then put in the cotter pin and you’re set. If you have it about right and the cotter pin hole doesn't line up, just tighten it a bit more until it does - it wont take much. Thats why the nut (castle nut) has three slots.

Do a google search on setting the pre-load if you are unsure. You’ll probably find several different methods - use the one that works for you. When you’re done, your wheel should spin freely but there should be no play in it. Grab the top and bottom of the wheel and push on while pulling the other back and forth a few times to see if its firm - there should be no play or slop.

If after going through the above proceedure your wheel still hangs up and doesn't spin freely, it’s time to take a close look at your bearings.