Welcome to RVForums.com

  • Register now and join the discussion
  • Friendliest RV Community on the web
  • Modern site for PC's, Phones, Tablets - no 3rd party apps required
  • Ask questions, help others, review campgrounds
  • Get the most out of the RV Lifestyle
  • Invite everyone to RVForums.com and let's have fun
  • Commercial/Vendors welcome

Question Isolating coach batteries from house batteries.

Welcome to RVForums.com

  • Register now and join the discussion
  • Modern secure site, no 3rd party apps required
  • Invite your friends and let's have fun
  • Commercial/Vendors welcome
  • Friendliest RV community on the web

lostinfla

Professional nobody
RVF Supporter
Joined
Dec 19, 2019
Messages
921
RV Year
2016
RV Make
Newmar
RV Model
Dutch Star
RV Length
37
TOW/TOAD
2021 Willys
Since I've changed to lithium for house power, I've been toying with the idea of not using the engine alternator to charge the house bank as it will last much longer than the daily drive to power what we use before plugging in again, then the inverter takes over the program. I have a lithium BIM installed and wondered if removing and isolating the coach line side from it would do the job, or eliminate it all together. What say ye?
 
Since I've changed to lithium for house power, I've been toying with the idea of not using the engine alternator to charge the house bank as it will last much longer than the daily drive to power what we use before plugging in again, then the inverter takes over the program. I have a lithium BIM installed and wondered if removing and isolating the coach line side from it would do the job, or eliminate it all together. What say ye?
I, too, am interested in the replies and how difficult will taking the charge away from the alternator?
 
A far as I can see, the function of the LBIM is that it joins the chassis and house batteries for charging with a limit of 15 min on and 15 min off so as to not overwork the alternator, and for use as a boost, which is connecting both together in the same way. I would think it would only be a matter of removing the house battery lead from the unit, therefore charge would be going only to the chassis batteries from the alternator, The other way to do it would be to remove the feed wire at the chassis battery bank. I'll do a little more research and give it a try this week.
 
There should be no issue removing the line coming from the LiBim from the house batteries. What I have wanted to do is put in a heavy duty line switch in the battery compartment so I can choose when I want the alternator to charge the batteries or not. This would also preserve the “Boost” feature if you needed to bridge the batteries if the chassis die for some reason.
 
Excellent idea Rich. Thanks!
Just put a switch in my Amazon cart.
 
Personally, I'll wait for a failure before I change anything. Have we heard of anyone with an alternator failure due to LiFePO4 batteries? I'll gladly replace the alternator and then make necessary changes if needed. However, I also have solar so my house batteries can be maintained by solar vs. alternator. But IMHO these alternators are a lot more rugged than we think.
 
I called freightliner some time ago and asked them about alternator failures, in particular related to lithium house batteries and they had not heard of any issues.
So I do tend to agree that these are pretty tough units. And to be honest, I have not seen the lithiums pull more than 100 amps across (per the shunt).
 
My issue is, while traveling we usually run the generator to keep the ACs ahead of the heat, so the inverter is able to charge the house bank. I didn't want the alternator trying to join in and possibly have an issue with two charge/ battery type systems not playing well together. I'm going to install another disconnect to be able to keep them isolated unless needed at some point.
 

Latest resources

Back
Top