Ok, here is how my two heat pump/ac's and the oasis work. If I want heat, I choose furnace on the thermostat, and set the fan to auto, enabling both zones. This make sure only the registers fans blow hot air from the oasis system (assuming you have it). But if I want heat pumps to run I have to change the thermostat to HP and the fan speed to hi-med-low or the furnace registers will also blow out even though it's not suppling heat. There is/may be a way to get both systems to provide heat, and selecting HP may be how it's done, setting the fan speed is the ticket to which system is providing heat on our unit. In fact now that I think about it, selecting HP, with oasis on (diesel/elect), and fan to auto, then both systems will work.
To cool, again, I choose cool on the thermostat, and select any fan speed, i.e., auto-hi-med-low, and the units will work. Since we have two of them, and they are cross connected, either unit will provide cool air through that cross piping and blow out of both units. To make sure I am getting cool air from both, I have to set the temp down to as low as 68F, and then they both will run, blowing cool air from both. If the "auto fan speed" is selected, the fan will only run when the unit is providing cooling. It's my opinion, the new type of refrigerant used is not as good as the old stuff, so the units have to work harder to get the temps cool enough for us.
FWIW-In winter, I store my coach, going over and running the genset to keep batteries charged up. If warm enough outside, I also run both heat pumps to provide enough load on the GS to meet it's half load requirement for the exercise provision (manual). Several times, the breaker on the second (zone 2) unit would trip, and that one would not work, showing an error in the thermostat display. I made sure all the switches for coach/house were off, and took of the panel for the breakers, and checked tightness on every connection in that panel. It takes a square drive bit to tighten then down a tad bit. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN then. After doing that (none lose), the breaker never tripped again, either running cool or HP. Might have been a bit of surface corrosion on the connections, regardless, it now works fine.