LPG parts question

[Scotsman]

Hello Campers

I have a Palomini 132FD travel trailer from which am currently pulling out the water system (not for discussion). My last task is to
remove the water heater but I'm leary of disconnecting the propane line that feeds it as I don't know how to cap the line.
I'm not familiar with those parts and don't know where to buy them or even what they're called.
The attached image shows two LPG feed lines going up into the camper from underneath. The 'end' line goes to the
water heater, the first line goes to the furnace (they're both located in the same compartment next to each other).
You can see the red and blue water lines that I've already cut.
How can I safely disconnect the line leading to the water heater and cap it off?
I'm hoping there's a way I can just unscrew the fitting at the end of the line and screw on a cap or maybe a valve that I can close.

I don't want to do ANYTHING until I have some answers and know the end-game.
Any advice would be very gratefully received.

 

[Rich W.]

Shut off the tank and then take that last 90° to a hardware store like Ace or even Home Depot, and get a cap for it. The reinstall it capped. For propane its probably flare. The cap replaces the last fitting. You dont want to use a valve because it could get opened unintentionally.

 

[Rich W.]

Or even easier, and much more sensible, after looking at the pic again, just remove both the T and the 90 and reinstall the 90 in place of the T. Problem solved, no new parts needed, fast and easy, safe, clean solution. Don’t know why I didn’t notice that earlier.

 

[Scotsman]

Shut off the tank and then take that last 90° to a hardware store like Ace or even Home Depot, and get a cap for it. The reinstall it capped. For propane its probably flare. The cap replaces the last fitting. You dont want to use a valve because it could get opened unintentionally.

Thanks very much - Great advice

 

[Scotsman]

Or even easier, and much more sensible, after looking at the pic again, just remove both the T and the 90 and reinstall the 90 in place of the T. Problem solved, no new parts needed, fast and easy, safe, clean solution. Don’t know why I didn’t notice that earlier.

Wow - very elegant solution - I’ll do it tomorrow. - probably with some thread sealant…

 

[Rich W.]

Wow - very elegant solution - I’ll do it tomorrow. - probably with some thread sealant…

You don’t need thread sealant or teflon tape on flare fittings. It wont do anything for the actual seal. Note there is none on the existing fittings/joints. The seal is formed by soft copper held tight against brass. The threads just hold the joint tight - they don’t seal it.

Just snug them down and leak test with fairly concentrated soapy water in a spray bottle. If you see bubbles when you turn on the gas, tighten it up a bit more until it stops. If not, leave it - its done. Be careful not to over-tighten it. Firm but gentle. Over-tightening can cause the flared copper in the joint to deform or crack. The operating pressure in those lines is only 10-15psi.

Also use two wrenches to loosen and tighten the fittings so you don’t stress the copper lines. Its soft copper and its easy to bend and kink. Use one wrench on the flat surfaces of the fitting body (probably 5/8”) and the other on the nut (probably 3/4”) working together to isolate the stress on the threaded fitting. The pics below will give you an idea of what you are working with. I dont have any tees or 90°s but its the same thing.

 

[Scotsman]

Thank you Rich,
Very helpful and well explained. I'll have more questions on other topics soon.

 

[Rich W.]

My pleasure. I enjoy this stuff as you probably noticed.