Need some advice and guidance for efficiently cooling our 94 Adventurer

[TXheat]

We have been living full time at a RV park in our 1994 adventurer. So here comes another grueling Summer in Southern Texas. To begin with Our Coleman Mach AC is not working correctly. Aside from it being old, the finds on the element are destroyed exposing the rods. Luckily I replaced the fan last year and it least when can use that to bring in cool air, that is when there is any outside. When trying to run the AC it doesn't get cold enough and the breaker trips, could also be because we are on 30amp and the AC is working harder due to the issue. I assume that's because the AC is not working to it fullest potential, but what do I know is I'm no HVAC expert. Just getting a RV repair guy to come and check it out will cost $100 for the trip. Assuming the unit is no good and needs to be replaced it could cost easily for parts and labor over $1k . I know there are used units for sale on ebay but I would need to hire someone to do the install. To make matters worse we have the lift out type windows in the bedroom and they can no longer can seal short of sealing them with duct tape, which we do when it gets colder. Winnebago should have stuck with the same sliding windows that are in front in this model instead they complicated it and finding replacements is next to impossible short of going to a RV junk yard like in AZ. We have tried the little evaporative coolers with the water and ICE and didn't find them to be effective. We considered installing a small window unit the problem is the sliding window we would have to use only has about 18-19 inches available and the unit is 17 making a fairly tight fit, then the problem of bracing the window unit it's only 35 lbs, so I would some wood would do the trick. But now we are considering buying a 5000 BTU Vented Portable AC like this one Robot or human?, but the problem is how do we vent it in the Adventurer, which windows would be best and where would it be best to place the unit for maximum efficiency? There is this article The Smallest Portable Air Conditioners for RVs & Tiny Spaces about how they are good for RVs but it's not very helpful. Anyone have any experience or suggestions on what's the best way to go in already cramped old 30 foot Aventurer? Obviously the best way to go would be to replace the Coleman that would make it so we don't have to add one more thing in here, but it's not really cost effective or efficient if the rear windows don't seal out the heat.

 

[Dan_Frisbie]

One thing that probably needs to be done is cleaning the heat exchangers. If you take off the outside cover, you will see the evaporator unit (looks like a radiator). Those fill up with dirt and crap and prevent air from moving. They should be cleaned every year.
On the inside, make sure that the filter is clean and the fan is unobstructed and clean.
If it’s popping the breaker, then it is likely that the compressor is overheating. This could be to a low coolant level (but if it doesn’t leak, it should never be low), or just not enough cooling air on the compressor due to the coils being dirty.

 

[TXheat]

I've.seen the heat exchangers and those are all flaky and most of them are gone, can the evaporator still work well without them? I agree the breaker popping could be due to the compressor overheating., can coolant level be checked? As I recall if the compressor is cold to the touch there should be no leak, similar to a vehicle AC cooling principle. Isn't it a sealed system that doesn't allow coolant to be added? Thanks

 

[Dan_Frisbie]

I've.seen the heat exchangers and those are all flaky and most of them are gone, can the evaporator still work well without them?

You have found the problem. With the cooling fins flaky and gone, there is limited ability for the refrigerant to cool.
The compressor IS overheating and that’s popping the breaker.
The heat exchangers need to be replaced before you do anything else. It is probably cheaper to replace the entire unit.

 

[TXheat]

You have found the problem. With the cooling fins flaky and gone, there is limited ability for the refrigerant to cool.
The compressor IS overheating and that’s popping the breaker.
The heat exchangers need to be replaced before you do anything else. It is probably cheaper to replace the entire unit.

Yep that's kind of what I figured so either replace it with a used affordable unit or we have to go with a portable indoor unit. Thanks

 

[Kevin D Pem]

Coolers? No.
New rooftop unit? No.
Window shaker? No.

Did I cover them all? No.

I would strongly suggest a mini-split!!!
Starting at 500 bucks, they are more efficient than any of the others above except the Medea inverter Window shaker that uses the same technology. Also much quieter!!!

 

[TXheat]

Coolers? No.
New rooftop unit? No.
Window shaker? No.

Did I cover them all? No.

I would strongly suggest a mini-split!!!
Starting at 500 bucks, they are more efficient than any of the others above except the Medea inverter Window shaker that uses the same technology. Also much quieter!!!

Funny you should suggest that, our park manager also suggested that last year, I did a little research into it and wrote it off one for one reason or another. Now I am strongly reconsidering it and sold on the idea and I saw Amazon has a 9000 btu model Amazon.com or this 11k btu model Walmart which I would hope would work well on our 30 amp system. I know there are install videos but I'm not finding anything specific to a class A like ours. So my question is where am I supposed to place the indoor and out door units in this model of Winnebago? Also the rear windows in the bedroom will have stay sealed unless I replace them. Any ideas?

 

[Kevin D Pem]

Take a look here https://www.homedepot.com/b/Heating...r-Conditioners/12000-BTU/N-5yc1vZc4m1Z1z19b6s

 

[TXheat]

Take a look here https://www.homedepot.com/b/Heating...r-Conditioners/12000-BTU/N-5yc1vZc4m1Z1z19b6s

Took a look looks like Home Depot has some good selections.

 

[TXheat]

Well in theory it's a great idea, but as far as placement it seems based on my search mini splits are easier to place on a Class B than a Class A, so far I have read how difficult it is to place a mini split in a class A and have yet to find a video that shows a successful install. The portable option starts to look more likely except the vent will have to go somewhere maybe through the floor?