Welcome to RVForums.com

  • Register now and join the discussion
  • Friendliest RV Community on the web
  • Modern site for PC's, Phones, Tablets - no 3rd party apps required
  • Ask questions, help others, review campgrounds
  • Get the most out of the RV Lifestyle
  • Invite everyone to RVForums.com and let's have fun
  • Commercial/Vendors welcome

New to me and getting her figured out and back on the road.

Welcome to our community

  • Register now and join the discussion
  • Modern secure site, no 3rd party apps required
  • Invite your friends and let's have fun
  • Commercial/Vendors welcome
  • Friendliest RV community on the web

Dajain

RVF Regular
Joined
Jun 26, 2025
Messages
8
image000000 (45).jpg

Hello Everyone!
I just picked up a 2010 Heartland Landmark Augusta and going thru the systems and getting everything working again.
The guy I got it from used it as temporary quarters and hasn't had water, electrical or sewer hooked up to it for 5 years.
But here's the thing, I got it for free, so I have room to stick some money into it. :)

One thing that has me puzzled, in the control panel (Slide outs, Awning, Tank levels, etc) there is a light switch which reads "Electric w/h" but then the tanks panel has the switch for the propane water heater.
Does this thing have a separate electric water heater, and if so, where is it located?


The wife & I are excited to start using this old girl.
 
I suspect it's one heater that runs on either switch. My water heater runs on either propane or electric depending on what switch I throw.
 
I suspect it's one heater that runs on either switch. My water heater runs on either propane or electric depending on what switch I throw.
That would make sense. I'll have to check that out.
This thing does seem to have a lot of "bells & Whistles" so that would not surprise me at all.

Our 1995 Terry 5th wheel wasn't nearly this fancy. haha
 
Our old class c had two switches for the water heater - one for propane and one for electric.

The electric side also had a switch inside the water heater box as well as a breaker.

Make sure the water heater is full before turning on the electric - the element will not last long at all if no water to heat.

We always filled, heated on propane side, made sure it was all vented etc to ensure full, then switch to electric.
 
The number one issue I see, probably from the crack in the front fiberglass, is the decay is dropping the panel where the hitch hooks up. Stop all leaks as soon as possible.
 
Welcome aboard! That's a pretty nice project given the cost to you. As "TheLooks" suggested, the first thing you need to do is get the unit weather tight. Repair that Fiberglass Cap, recalk the roof, check the windows and door seals. Then the fun part.....the electric and plumbing systems. It helps to be a handy kinda guy owning an RV even if it's brand new. They are always a work in progress.

There are lots of friendly, knowledgeable folks here that are willing to give you some advice or at least offer a comment to help.

Good luck and safe travels!
 
Thanks for the replies, everyone!

That crack in the front is definitely on the repair list. It is a good thing I live in Southern Utah where rain is rare these days, but yes, the skin under the bedroom has taken it's toll from that damage and is hanging down.
Story behind that damage is the guy asked his wife to spot him in a crowded RV park. As soon as she was out of the truck and spotting him, 3 women came over to visit, distracted her and he hit a tree.
I didn't ask how long it has been like that, but inside doesn't show any water damage so hopefully I caught it in time.

I left the water hooked up to it last night with the "Electric W/H" switch turned on over night. About time to see if this unit has that option.
 
Did you make sure the water heater was filling and not set to by-pass from winterizing?
 
Just so you know, you can use both methods to heat the water, something people do when showering so that it recovers quicker.
 
Well, bad news. The electric part of the water heater doesn't work. Also, looking thru the manual bag, there is no book on the water heater.
Where is the heating element located on this type of W/H? I don't see any electrical going to it at all.
 
I did find the water heater manual, then also fund the 110 VAC heating element.
Element ohms out at just over 10 ohms, so that should be good to go.
But not getting any voltage to the element.
Did some troubleshooting and found the resettable T-stat on the tank doesn't have any continuity.
Ordering the part right now and I'll go from there. :)
 
As stated, you are doing well.

We also had a breaker on the electric side of ours that we opened to make sure we didn’t burn up the elements by mistake.
 

Latest resources

Back
Top Bottom