Welcome to RVForums.com

  • Register now and join the discussion
  • Friendliest RV Community on the web
  • Modern site for PC's, Phones, Tablets - no 3rd party apps required
  • Ask questions, help others, review campgrounds
  • Get the most out of the RV Lifestyle
  • Invite everyone to RVForums.com and let's have fun
  • Commercial/Vendors welcome

Oil change interval confusion

Welcome to our community

  • Register now and join the discussion
  • Modern secure site, no 3rd party apps required
  • Invite your friends and let's have fun
  • Commercial/Vendors welcome
  • Friendliest RV community on the web
That is utterly ridiculous. Have you EVER seen anything in your owners manual where it says "beware of how much zinc is in your oil"? No.
Just use whatever oil is specified in the owners manual and there is nothing to worry about.
That clown is answering a question that was never asked. Looking for a solution for a non-existent problem
Thanks Dog, now I have to watch the video…..
 
That is utterly ridiculous. Have you EVER seen anything in your owners manual where it says "beware of how much zinc is in your oil"? No.
Just use whatever oil is specified in the owners manual and there is nothing to worry about.
That clown is answering a question that was never asked. Looking for a solution for a non-existent problem
Not going to watch again! As I recall the jest of the video is don't use additives, because they change that delicate balance!!!
 
I have an ISX12 in on a Spartan K3 chassis. Cummins documentation says that if the ISX12 is installed in a MH, that the oil needs to be changed every 6 MONTHS. I confirm this with Cummins via email. I did that once and now change it yearly based on 10K miles/year.

As far as the setup to change your own oil, it’s not that bad. When I still had a S&B, I change my own oil. I had the oil plug replaced (during oil change at Speedco) with a valve and when changing the oil, I would air up the coach to maximum height. I believe I could get a 5 gallon bucket under the coach, but I opted for a 3 gallon bucket. I would open the valve, fill the bucket, and then close the valve. I would then pour the 3 gallon bucket of oil into 5 gallons buckets. I would put the lid on the buckets and then take them to the landfill which had oil recycling tanks. It was 5 miles away.

Yes it’s more work to change it yourself, but I prefer doing things myself. I know it is done right, oil filter changed, etc.

Also being under the coach it gives me the opportunity to check things out for any issues that may exist.
 
Freightliner recommended 1-2-3 in their Fireside Chat literature. 1 being the annual oil and filter change, 2 being the engine air filter, 3 being the desiccant cartridge, etc...

I saw the change to 18 months. The problem is...I am just hitting retirement. We want to travel sometime spring/summer to Fall everyyear, while we can. I don't want to be doing an oil service during our trips. I'll keep on the annual service as a preflight for our annual trip, at least until we quit traveling a lot.
 
Here is some information on high levels of zinc and modern engines.


Wow, that was really informative…I had NO idea about this subject and this guy did a great job explaining it. Thanks.
 
I have a 2022 Dutch Star 4081 with a Cummins L9 450 HP power plant. The owner's manual has a service interval chart that has different milage between oil changes depending on MPG. At 5 to 7 which is what I experience the book recommends up to 30,000 miles or 1500 hours or 18 months. I have always changed the oil on my cars and boats at 12 months regardless the mileage or hours. What do you guys typically do? I have not had to add any oil since I bought the rig back in October. I have under 6000 miles on it. The coach was built in February of 2022 but I have no idea when it was actually put into service by being driven to the west coast to the dealership. Thanks for the input.
 
Changing the oil every year is not necessary it’s a lie. My brother ran the motor pool for the service what they found in the military is oil did not degrade by setting so now they’re not allowed to change the oil without doing a test first some of the vehicles go 7 to 10 years before they change the oil what they have found is we’ve been lied to all these years by the companies That want us to buy oil. Do not change your oil until you have the required amount of miles on it and you will be fine.
 
Que someone saying its cheap insurance. Even though new oil will not fix a mechanical failure.
 
He is no different then Lake Speed and did not go into the problems with roller cams like Ram experienced. Trade one problem for another.
 
That is utterly ridiculous. Have you EVER seen anything in your owners manual where it says "beware of how much zinc is in your oil"? No.
Just use whatever oil is specified in the owners manual and there is nothing to worry about.
That clown is answering a question that was never asked. Looking for a solution for a non-existent problem
Those of us paying attention are fully aware of why there are new oil formulations and even for gasoline engines know the damage wrong oils can do to catalytic converters and O2 sensors. We now also konw that certain oil additives can lead to low-speed pre-ignition probably first addressed by GM in the Dexos oil specifications. No w back to the video, most oil additives do nothing and can be more harm than good. Use the right oil, good filter, change when needed and no additives needed.
 
I always love the oil change and selection posts. Almost like religion and politics. I do not really even know where to begin but I'll throw some thoughts out there. Now, keep in mind that I have 40 years' experience with larger industrial engines being used for emergency power and fire water pumping. Limited use equipment that for most part is only used for testing, running for some maintenance, and sometimes really needed. At one time we used some of the generators for load shedding and power assist but the environmentalist put a stop to that. Anyway, for these engines there are requirements for maintenance and validation.
As for annual oil changes there are some factors that may dictate that. Oil itself does not go bad in a year. What does go bad is the filters, oil, fuel, and air. Even the better ones there is some cellulose base and once wetted, they begin to age. Having an oil or fuel filter separate and pass the media into the fuel or engine lubrication system will make for a bad day. BTDT. How long will they last with intermittent use? As moved to synthetics and oil testing, we eventually moved to annual filter replacement. OK for the filter spiel.
Comparing the care, oil changes whatever from these Diesel engines to our car or light truck experiences, you really can't. Not even close. As for cost effectiveness. Most of us have been frugal driving older, cheaper cars and how we saved enough coin to get into the RV world. While you may never see an engine just plain wear out form lack of oil changes, cheap filters, wrong oil, they can and will fail along with some of the support systems including turbos and the fuel injection system, injectors. Traveling away from home, the past decisions can lead to $20K to $50K roadside repair events. Most of our Diesel pushers have 100 to 200 gallon fuel tank. $500 to $1,200. Driving is around $1/mile just for fuel. Why even question an annual oil and filter change? The wash and detail guy gets me $700 for a wash and quick wax.
The only way to know how often oil really needs to be changed is to do testing. And still there is a lot of stuff that does not show up in the testing. The really small particles. As for recommended oil change intervals, oil and filter selection, the OEM goal is not ultimate engine life. Part of the recommendations are to promote reduced ownership costs, regulatory reductions in consumption, and just getting through warranty. RV manufactures want to sell you a new RV, the chassis supplier wants to sell chassis to the RV manufacturers, and they also want to sell you parts and service including new turbos and engines. The promote longevity and reputation but they really want future and repeat sales. Think home appliances now.
Back to oil change frequency, the most important changes are when the engine is new. Get the bad stuff, machining debris, casting sand, break in materials out of there. Frequent changes the only way. Starting our engines during storage, not driving them is hard on the engine and the oil. Will show up in oil testing especially during break in. My Denali was after 15K miles for the high wear readings to stop.

Anyway, hope I gave few good ideas. Should anyone want some further help, oil and filter selection, let me know. Engine oil is more than just simple wear protection. Also give though to the other fluids such as transmission and hydraulics. Most all equipment failures come back to fluid system failures, one way or another. Now get your rig out there and use it and put miles on them faster than putting months on them.

 

Latest resources

Back
Top Bottom