Welcome to RVForums.com

  • Register now and join the discussion
  • Friendliest RV Community on the web
  • Modern site for PC's, Phones, Tablets - no 3rd party apps required
  • Ask questions, help others, review campgrounds
  • Get the most out of the RV Lifestyle
  • Invite everyone to RVForums.com and let's have fun
  • Commercial/Vendors welcome

Old one: OBDII connectors?

Welcome to our community

  • Register now and join the discussion
  • Modern secure site, no 3rd party apps required
  • Invite your friends and let's have fun
  • Commercial/Vendors welcome
  • Friendliest RV community on the web

Old one

RVF Regular
Joined
Apr 13, 2026
Messages
13
Location
Altamonte Springs, Fl
Fulltimer
No
I am planning to buy a 24-28' gas motor home either class A or C. I will hire a professional to inspect it, and be there with him.I do have soem questions--
Most of the motor homes have the Ford V10 and the web sites I visited say they are reliable if it is later than 2003. Do they have an OBDII connector and is it usually under the dash like in Ford trucks/SUVs? (I have the plugin computer and will have it with me.)m

Are the associated transmissions also reliable? I want a comfortable ride as we are pushing 80. We also need reliability for we hate surprises. I am familiar with gas engine ignition systems and computers
 
My 2016 F53 chassis has the OBD port under the dash by the steering column. I have realistic expectations about the ride quality and although it will ride nice and smooth on a flat surface that is rarely the case. I would not classify it as a comfortable ride.
 
I am planning to buy a 24-28' gas motor home either class A or C. I will hire a professional to inspect it, and be there with him.I do have soem questions--
Most of the motor homes have the Ford V10 and the web sites I visited say they are reliable if it is later than 2003. Do they have an OBDII connector and is it usually under the dash like in Ford trucks/SUVs? (I have the plugin computer and will have it with me.)m

Are the associated transmissions also reliable? I want a comfortable ride as we are pushing 80. We also need reliability for we hate surprises. I am familiar with gas engine ignition systems and computers
Just an FYI, Late model Ford F53 (Class A Motor Home Chassis) came with a six speed transmission. A great improvement over the older four speeds.
 
Just an FYI, Late model Ford F53 (Class A Motor Home Chassis) came with a six speed transmission. A great improvement over the older four speeds.
There's a 5 spd. in between them as well. Mine is the last year for the 5, yours is a couple of years into the 6. They also transitioned from 2 to 3 valve.
 
OBD2 is a standardized port required by USinc. Starting in the mid 90's. Previous manufacturer standard was OBD1 that is usually accessed by a key sequence. As I recall My 1991 van had OBD1 as did My 1994 dakota
 
1996 was the year almost everything went to OBDII and the F53's did too. The very first of the 6.8's came in 1997 so by definition all V10's are OBDII.
The earlier V10's had a 5R110 five speed and later ones the 6R140 six speed. Though either is about as reliable as the other I think, the six speed seems a much better match for the V10's power band is you ask me.

As for the engine, they have had some issues but by now about all of them should be long settled by the current/previous owner. One thing to watch out for though is exhaust leaks at the manifold/cylinder head. They tend to break exhaust studs (a LOT of other engines do this too, Dodges, diesels, all sorts) which causes "ticking" like exhaust leaks. It's definitely fixable but probably not something you want to get into right off the bat. On the other hand you can use an estimate of the repair cost as a bargaining chip. These type of leaks tend to be most evident when the engine is "dead cold" and can even disappear completely once it has fully warmed up. So watch out for a seller who warmed up the engine for you before you got there to try and hide this. As for repair, some shops want nothing to do with it and don't deal with them. Other shops have invested in drilling templates, right angle drills, and such to take on that exact work and those are the ones you want to find because they have no problem with the job. If you need such help, you may not.
 
OBD2 is a standardized port required by USinc. Starting in the mid 90's. Previous manufacturer standard was OBD1 that is usually accessed by a key sequence. As I recall My 1991 van had OBD1 as did My 1994 dakota
I was into cars back in 1994 when this came about. You are correct in what you said. The problem with OBDI was the port data string was manufacture written, so you needed THIER reader to access it. Moreover, in that year, Ford had different data strings for: small cars; large cars, small trucks, and H/D trucks. The average mechanics needed 4 of these to service Ford, and the other big 3 were the same. The car owners who lived away from dealers like say my B I L who lives in Freistadt, Mo, had to drive 40 miles to access a dealer, so when the check engine light comes on, and the car is still running, everyone said hell with it. The polution stiuff may have been the fault, and it's polluting. The Gov't stated teh OBDII so the local gas station could afford the reader and do minor repairs or if not send the to the dealer. Also, the common data language allows people like me to diagnose problems and do some repairs myself.
the point of my post is to be able to ":test" a rig on the spot. Minor things that I can fix may not be a deal-breaker.
 
1996 was the year almost everything went to OBDII and the F53's did too. The very first of the 6.8's came in 1997 so by definition all V10's are OBDII.
The earlier V10's had a 5R110 five speed and later ones the 6R140 six speed. Though either is about as reliable as the other I think, the six speed seems a much better match for the V10's power band is you ask me.

As for the engine, they have had some issues but by now about all of them should be long settled by the current/previous owner. One thing to watch out for though is exhaust leaks at the manifold/cylinder head. They tend to break exhaust studs (a LOT of other engines do this too, Dodges, diesels, all sorts) which causes "ticking" like exhaust leaks. It's definitely fixable but probably not something you want to get into right off the bat. On the other hand you can use an estimate of the repair cost as a bargaining chip. These type of leaks tend to be most evident when the engine is "dead cold" and can even disappear completely once it has fully warmed up. So watch out for a seller who warmed up the engine for you before you got there to try and hide this. As for repair, some shops want nothing to do with it and don't deal with them. Other shops have invested in drilling templates, right angle drills, and such to take on that exact work and those are the ones you want to find because they have no problem with the job. If you need such help, you may not.
also good advice. I would try a shop that does trucks that should be equipped.
 

Latest resources

Back
Top Bottom