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Park model electrical

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misteredwards321

RVF Newbee
Joined
Jul 30, 2021
Messages
3
I’m running electric for a 2000 Breckenridge park model. The previous owner told me that because if it’s age it only needs a single hot (120v) leg and a neutral. This goes against what I’ve always done for a 50 amp service. It has a RV cord with 50 amp plug on it. I just have never heard of a trailer only needing one hot leg. He said it’s not like the new trailers where it needs two hot legs and a neutral. He said it was on a single pole 50 A breaker. Anyone have experience with this ?

These are his words in a text he sent me.

“There was a single 100 amp service ran to the trailer, it isn't like the newer ones that have 2 110 volt lines ran. 1 for the inverter and 1 for the 110 volt appliances”
 
A quick check of how the 50A plug on the cord is wired should provide the answer, along with how the power panel in the trailer is set up? Does the panel have a single row of breakers, or two rows of breakers with staggered neutral contacts? I think it is distinctly possible that the previous owner has provided you with accurate information. “Park models,” especially from that era, were frequently set up that way.

TJ
 
I appreciate that. I will have to check on that. My dilemma is picking up the materials I need. I was going to run #2 AL cable from a main metered panel to the spot where the trailer is. I have to find out if I need 2-2-4 or just 2-4. I could always just bury an extra leg and only use one.
 
Two comments. First, if you use AL cable, be sure to use AL-compatible connections. While I understand that AL is less expensive, I wouldn’t use it, but it is certainly your choice and not mine.

Second, when I run cable that has even the slightest possibility of needing three conductors plus ground (even when I currently need only two plus ground), I run 4-conductor. The cost difference for the extra conductor is relatively small when compared to changing the cable out at a later date.

YMMV

TJ
 
Yes. I agree with you 100%. I work for a utility company and the AL is scraps from a job. The connectors I have are AL-CU. So either way. But that’s a good idea. We normally run spare conduits for that purpose alone. The cost of changing out. Thanks for your input.
 

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