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How To Power Starlink Standard (Gen3) using PoE?

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Neal

Staff member
RVF Administrator
Joined
Jul 27, 2019
Messages
12,220
Location
Midlothian, VA
RV Year
2017
RV Make
Newmar
RV Model
Ventana 4037
RV Length
40' 10"
Chassis
Freightliner XCR
Engine
Cummins 400 HP
TOW/TOAD
2017 Chevy Colorado
Fulltimer
No
@DavidL you mentioned this product to power a Starlink Gen3 "Standard" setup.


This appears to just take a 12V source and not require a 120V power supply?

Looks like a great option!
 
Yes, it takes 12 volts and pumps that up to POE voltage (57 volts? memory is failing). It also has lightning suppression built in so less chance your electronics ecosystem fries when near a lightning strike.
Then, it's "normal" ethernet DHCP server/ firewall / routing etc that takes place in the existing router (like PepWave, or PFSense or many others).

All of my core networking runs off of 12 volt natively so less power efficiency losses (not that I care too much about that as I have never dry camped). My real reason is same dish gets relocated to boat, car, house so I don't need multiple monthly Starlink service charges.

The Starlink service plan is associated to the Dish, not the router so the router that Starlink provides is optional.

Note that the Starlink would typically be connected to the WAN (dirty side) of the router's firewall.
 
Excellent. While it allows you to remove the Gen3 Wi-Fi router it still adds a router but 12V powered appeals to me for boondocking. However, my inverters remain on so I have to see if I get any other benefit going this route. I do use an Amazon Alexa enabled smart plug on the Starlink router so I can turn it on/off as desired. Options to consider. I have just have to figure out pro's/con's of 12V power vs. inverter supplied power via 120V.
 
Excellent. While it allows you to remove the Gen3 Wi-Fi router it still adds a router but 12V powered appeals to me for boondocking. However, my inverters remain on so I have to see if I get any other benefit going this route. I do use an Amazon Alexa enabled smart plug on the Starlink router so I can turn it on/off as desired. Options to consider. I have just have to figure out pro's/con's of 12V power vs. inverter supplied power via 120V.
If your inverter inverts power at 95%, then you gain 5% more battery life by not using the inverter.
 
If your inverter inverts power at 95%, then you gain 5% more battery life by not using the inverter.
Good to know. Thanks!
 
I have used a home made POE for my Gen2 StarLink, which required some effort. It was flawless and allowed me to get rid of all the extra equipment.

One of the reasons I did this was the distance from the clearview sky to the RV was approx 500ft. I mounted a solar panel, 200Ah of battery (lithium), the POE, and Ethernet to fiber transceiver equipment in the box and raised the starlink on a 50 ft pole to get clear sky. I then ran fiber to the RV and converted back to ethernet at my peplink.

This has worked very well for the past 4 years. The setup runs year-round, even when I am not camping, as it provides monitoring of the cameras and other devices we keep there.

When I installed the large in motion unit ($2500 setup), I didn't recreate the POE, and I doubt the effort would be worthwhile for this dish. It is a very large power consumer.
 
I have used a home made POE for my Gen2 StarLink, which required some effort. It was flawless and allowed me to get rid of all the extra equipment.

One of the reasons I did this was the distance from the clearview sky to the RV was approx 500ft. I mounted a solar panel, 200Ah of battery (lithium), the POE, and Ethernet to fiber transceiver equipment in the box and raised the starlink on a 50 ft pole to get clear sky. I then ran fiber to the RV and converted back to ethernet at my peplink.

This has worked very well for the past 4 years. The setup runs year-round, even when I am not camping, as it provides monitoring of the cameras and other devices we keep there.

When I installed the large in motion unit ($2500 setup), I didn't recreate the POE, and I doubt the effort would be worthwhile for this dish. It is a very large power consumer.
is the 50 ft pole for the sticks and bricks or also for the RV? Certainly telescopic. Gotta pic / link to the pole? Curious.
 
is the 50 ft pole for the sticks and bricks or also for the RV? Certainly telescopic. Gotta pic / link to the pole? Curious.
It’s on the property. Just some 1.25in metal pipe with guy wires to keep it steady. It’s in a forest so I had to get over the trees. It was 5 10ft sections with about 5ft in the ground with cement then 3 guy wires at the lower portion of top bar. It’s not perfect but was quick and easy.
 
@redbaron how did you set up the in motion dish?
 
@redbaron how did you set up the in motion dish?

I mounted the starling in front of the middle air in the center of the coach. I used VHB tape along the base when attaching to the roof and then used 4 screws into the aluminum cross bracing of the roof to add extra strength. It will not be coming off without extreme effort.

Once it was attached I used liberal amounts of Dicor over the heads of screws and along the edges of the bracket to ensure no water intrusion to weaken the tape or eventually follow the threads into the roof.

The cable was routed along with my cellular and other cables to the front cap and into the driver overhead cabinet. I mounted the starling POE to the ceiling of the cabinet, covering the 2"x3" hole I made to find the dang cable. This location had AC power, so it was very simple. I then ran an ethernet from that box to the side cabinet over the driver where my peplink is installed, connecting it to a WAN interface.

I have parked in areas with trees and it still works very well.

While I am at my property in MT, I use the RV based unit along with the Ground based unit I have there, my wireless internet from MT Sky, and AT&T. This ensures I always have plenty of bandwidth for the 6 people that like to use it during our summer stay :)
 

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