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RV garage hydronic heated floor

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Ernie

RVF VIP
Joined
Dec 28, 2019
Messages
106
RV Year
2019
RV Make
Newmar
RV Model
Dutch Star 4363
RV Length
43'9"
TOW/TOAD
2020 Lincoln Nautilus
Does anyone have or know someone who uses in-floor hydronics to heat their garage/ post frame/ pole barns? I'm planning to do so with a 24 wide, 60 long, 16 high at the eave post frame building. Site is cleared and roadwork finished, New power pole, good well, and septic near the site for hook-ups in the building.
thanks
Ernie
 
Use a water heater with recirculating pump and a lot of continuous loop pex
 
It feels strange saying Thanks Ernie. That is the plan, I've been pouring through YouTube videos and lots of google search time. I'm wondering if additional concrete the thickness of the pex will be needed.
 
I would consult a structural engineer to find out the thickness you need to go for your load.
 
@Ernie, since you are talking about a 60' slab and you have a 43' Dutch Star, I would recommend an 8" thick slab. That's pretty standard for pads used by larger motorhomes. That's what our pad is in Polson, Montana, and it was designed to support a 45' coach. Since it is an outdoor pad, it is not hydronically heated but I think the standard PEX used in hydronic heating systems is all that should be required. Once encased in concrete, there should be no need for any extra thickness. You will want to ensure that there is plenty of reinforcing steel in the pad so that it does not crack. That could be a problem if you were to get a major crack.

Sounds like you have a great plan for your rv garage. I'm envious!

TJ
 
Any update on this project? Would love to see pics and know how it turned out!
 
Just level dirt/gravel and water and sewer lines roughed in so far
 
I could ask why heat the floor of a storage shed, but I won't, instead I will guess. A few feet down your earth temp will stabilize in the 50 deg range give or take. With that, running insulation a few feet down along the outside edge of the building will keep the building from freeze temps. If however you should continue with your plan your heat will also go down unless you insulate the underside of the slab. If you are not going to insulate walls and roof any heat you introduce will be lost through convection. Sounds like a very expensive project either during build or after in heating costs.
 
Thank you for your valuable information Kevin, I would have NEVER have taken those items into consideration before I build
 

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