Answered Should current be flowing through an unplugged converter (closed loop)?

[JeffAndPam]

In the process of diagnosing issues with my chassis battery going dead while plugged into shore power, I removed my converter in order to do some testing on it.
My first test was to connect it straight to the chassis battery, which shows 12.36 v currently.

While connecting the terminals (and BEFORE plugging in the converter) I connect positive first, then when going to connect negative, I noticed a little spark.
So rather than completing the circuit, I put the volt meter on it. It showed 12.29 volts (this time running through the DC plugs of the converter).
This means there was a closed circuit in the converter.
I tested for ohms on the converter and it showed 0.594 ohms, rather than reading OL

I planned on doing as much testing my self on this converter before asking questions here, but this one had me a little nervous. I decided to forgo plugging in converter and connect it to the battery until I heard other's opinion.

LONG QUESTION SHORT: Should the DC plugs on a convert show a closed loop?

EDIT: I do want to add one bit of information: While on shore power, the only issue I noticed was the chassis battery getting drained. The convert did provide sufficient power to the other components on the RV.


For those who like pictures:
Converter sitting ready, using 12-2 wires, not plugged in

Although hard to see, showing a connection running from positive side (left, white wire), through the converter, through the volt meter, then to negative.
Showing 12.29 volts

Testing ohms on the DC plugs of the converter (and no, the clips are not touching the metal box).
This shows a closed connection.

 

[GTS225]

I'm reading your meter as .594 MEG ohms. (Notice the notation under the numbers.) That would seem about right to me. Yes, there is some circuitry on the low voltage side that would consume power at all times, even if there's no load(s) on the high voltage side. Shoot, even connecting the battery in a modern car will get you a small spark, as the computer needs power at all times to monitor the inputs.

Roger

 

[Kevin D Pem]

So check the diodes for failure!

The control circuit should be powered by the 110 side of things, but if they smooth the output, your spark can be the charging of a capacitor.

 

[JeffAndPam]

Thank you both (@GTS225 and @Kevin D Pem) , that gives me enough assurance to go ahead with my tests.
I'll also be checking other things (including solenoids). When I'm ready for more help I post a new thread.