Surge protector

[A-Texan]

I have both an EMS (which I use now anytime I plug in to shore power) and an old surge protector I used in the past that I keep just in case the EMS ever messes up (to clarify I only use the EMS now which also has built in surge protection). I bought a 30 amp version EMS by Southwire for my Travel Trailer after having a power outage on my home take out several expensive components including the refrigerator circuit board, my motherboard in my PC, two automatic motion sensor light switches and the cable internet modem, which all went out at the same time after repeated power surges a few years back during a severe thunderstorm. Before this incident caught my attention I used to chance it with my travel trailer, but after that power outage damaged those items in my home I thought about how lucky I was that the travel trailer hadn't ever been damaged while using it in bad weather and I realized I don't want to take a chance with this happening to it. I fixed all the items mentioned, but the parts were not cheap, I spent several hundred dollars on parts even though I did the labor myself for free on my day off work. Ordering the stuff was a hastle though. We have been in the same home a very long time and this has only happened this one time, but it helped me recognize how dangerous low voltage can be to electrical components (soon after this storm my power lines from the pedestal to my home had to be replaced as well due to low voltage on one phase coming into my house, but the electric company replaced the lines to my home at no cost because they are responsible for the line up to my breaker box). Better to be safe then sorry, and I figure $200 is cheaper than an A/C unit or a new RV refrigerator.

 

[wildebill308]

The Southwire Surge Guard is one of the better units. I have a 50 amp one that is portable. That makes it easier to check the power before you pull in or if that site is bad check anouther one without moving your RV. Unlike some of the others it will shut off power if it isn't right but will turn power back on if it improves.
Sounds expensive but one circuit board for the refrigerator or microwave will cost you more.
Bill

 

[Bob K4TAX]

I have an "outlet test plug", one of those 6 LED units along with a 30A to 15A adapter, which I always use before plugging in the cord to our TT. I have an in-line EMS installed in the TT as well. I figure it is $250 well spent.

Bob

 

[Altazi]

Bear in mind that most ‘surge protectors’ are really just ‘spike protectors’. They operate by clamping the incoming voltage to a (hopefully) safe level, and absorb the excess energy, which is dissipated as heat. Voltage spikes are very brief events, measuring in microseconds to milliseconds. They are generally caused by noisy loads - motors, switching transients, etc. A true power surge is generally caused by some sort of line fault, and can last into the seconds range, and will likely destroy a spike protector.

The amount of excess energy a spike protector can safely absorb is given as the joule (watt x seconds) rating, and higher is better. If you substantially exceed the joule rating, the protector will fail, which typically allows the unclamped surge voltage to pass through and ruin sensitive equipment connected.

 

[wildebill308]

Bear in mind that most ‘surge protectors’ are really just ‘spike protectors’. They operate by clamping the incoming voltage to a (hopefully) safe level, and absorb the excess energy, which is dissipated as heat. Voltage spikes are very brief events, measuring in microseconds to milliseconds. They are generally caused by noisy loads - motors, switching transients, etc. A true power surge is generally caused by some sort of line fault, and can last into the seconds range, and will likely destroy a spike protector.

The amount of excess energy a spike protector can safely absorb is given as the joule (watt x seconds) rating, and higher is better. If you substantially exceed the joule rating, the protector will fail, which typically allows the unclamped surge voltage to pass through and ruin sensitive equipment connected.

That is good if all you had was hi voltage. That does nothing for low voltage. I think low voltage, from my experience, is much more common than hi voltage. You absolutely need a surge guard that will protect from all the potential problems.
What about mis wired pedestals?
Bill

 

[Joe Hogan]

Looking further into the Surge Protection methods, looking at the Hughs Autoformer product. The newest Autoformer has a Surge Protection feature as well. AND the surge protection fuse is replaceable!! That alone almost makes the $800 price tag worth it

 

[Joe Hogan]

Hughs replacement surge module