Old-RV'er
RVF Expert
- Joined
- Feb 23, 2020
- Messages
- 515
- Location
- Blairsville, GA
- RV Year
- 2019
- RV Make
- Newmar
- RV Model
- Ventana 3407
- RV Length
- 34'10"
- TOW/TOAD
- 2013 Jeep Wrangler Sahara Unlimited
- Fulltimer
- No
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Yup. I also look at the gauges to check the psi of the front and rear tanks, followed by a walk around the coach.The pop-off valve release is indicative that the air pressure maximum has been reached. So is it save to assume that if the dash gauges reach the max pressure, the bags are fully inflated?
I was under the impression that you could never be hooked up with the engine running. Is that wrong?Hmmm, believe low air is at 60PSI, regardless, the following sequence is required by Newmar.
Coach is at "ride height "note, this will change depending on how level the site you are in is. I run down air once in spot, by stepping on brakes several times, and then let coach pump system back up to "compressor pop off noise", but my air gauges are almost pegged out at the highest pressure available. I check the pedestal power with an external Surge Guard Unit, if staying longer than couple of nights, I chain up the SG to the pedestal, and then plug coach into that. Once got shore power, tested good, and hooked to coach, I extend the slides. Back inside for the leveling operation. Note, assuming Dutch Star and above do not have Equalizer System (don't like it), and your leveling systems are better.
I stop the engine, turn key to ACC and power up the equalizer panel, I start Auto Level, then push button again to just stop auto level, but this allows all the bags to lose air in them. I turn off jack panel, and turn on again, then I level the coach manually because the EQ system will lower the jacks and try to level the coach prior to the airbags being empty. This will leave the front of the coach much higher than is necessary for the BH to gain entry because it's so high off the ground. By allowing all the air to be let out, and then leveling manually, I can ensure that the front is as low as possible and still level. NOTE: It seems to me, that after a few hours, the level of the coach changes, most likely due to the fluid in the system cooling down and contracting possibly, so I check level again, and 9 times out of 10, I have to futz with the level again to make sure it's correct. I have very good internal spatial orientation awareness, and so I can see or feel if the coach is out of level and when I do I check the bubble level and it confirms I am correct. Newmar checked the EQ system last service (June 1sat 2020), they said it' is working fine. Using the auto level feature is almost worthless, as stated above, it seems to hunt for level at least 3-10 times before I get the "beep for level" and when I check it, usually it's at least 1/2 bubble off of level, so I just do it manually. The equilizer system is not as good as HWH, they make the best leveling system bar none, but life is what it is. If I wanted HWH, I would own New Aire. Not unless win big lottery.
TO leave: I unlevel coach and start engine almost at the same time. I allow Oil Pressure to stabilize and start fast idle to get coach to Ride Height faster. Once RH achieved, I put in the slides, (assuming all interior things stowed, etc.). I stop fast idle, wait 10 seconds or so to let engine level out and shut down. I then go outside, dump tanks/flush tanks, stow hoses, cords, etc. I make final walk around to check compartment doors/locked. Then we slowly leave spot, to toad hook up area (if necessary) and leave. I do not put any heavy loads on engine until it shows at least the 1st peg of temperature has been achieved on gauge. Then take it easy for 5 miles of so on highway to make sure its warmed up good.