- Joined
- Jul 27, 2019
- Messages
- 11,599
- Location
- Midlothian, VA
- RV Year
- 2017
- RV Make
- Newmar
- RV Model
- Ventana 4037
- RV Length
- 40' 10"
- Chassis
- Freightliner XCR
- Engine
- Cummins 400 HP
- TOW/TOAD
- 2017 Chevy Colorado
- Fulltimer
- No
Hello, and thank you for watching Safety Time with Neal...
Okay, today I realized it's time for some safety inspections. Especially for those of us hunkering down in the S&B it's a great opportunity to do some inspections. If you're bored at a campground, it's also a good time for inspections. Here are a few things I suggest inspecting:
Okay, today I realized it's time for some safety inspections. Especially for those of us hunkering down in the S&B it's a great opportunity to do some inspections. If you're bored at a campground, it's also a good time for inspections. Here are a few things I suggest inspecting:
- Newmar had a recall I don't know how long ago, it feels like a year but it's probably two for the Automated Transfer Switch (ATS) to inspect and torque the screws securing the wires (50A). I don't remember the torque values and I'm not sure it's important, what is important is to get our craniums back there, open the ATS cover and ensure the screws are tight. Remember to shutoff the breakers to shore power (or disconnect) and also make sure your GEN if AGS equipped is OFF and not armed or auto.
- Slide motors: Do you even know where all of your slide motors are? Good time to find them and the one that's usually the fun one to find for first timers is the bedroom slide motor. It's typically under the sub-floor of the bed. Again I don't recall the torque values and when Newmar inspected a few of mine they didn't use a torque wrench but just a wrench. I did this last summer and the only one that has loose bolts was the bedroom slide motor. If you're going to add loctite I believe the tip is to not completely remove the bolt, just expose threads and dabble on loctite otherwise you may not get the bolt back in.
- You may recall I had one or two shorts in my OASIS (possibly one short with one area I didn't catch until a year later with a OASIS failure). Open the front panel of your OASIS system and on the left side are wires going up to the 120V connections. Inspect carefully. The next one that's really important is the top side, remove the panel where your 2 x 120V lines are going in and check for exposed wire from scraped insulation, or any evidence of shorts. Also remove the hour meter panel and look under it, more wires there in the path to the relays below.
- GEN coolant level. I got busted by the OASIS police at the ABQ balloon fiesta not having checked my coolant level and it was low. Look at the white/opaque coolant markings on the front and ensure you're in the proper level
- OASIS radiator fluid. Typically in your chassis battery compartment, check the level and add as needed.
- Engine OIL (eaurrrllll): Last time you checked your engine oil was?
- While at a campground and parked on a nice white concrete pad, inspect under your coach for leaks. While at a high altitude destination I discovered an eaurrrlll leak (later found to be bad head gasket) and a water leak (shower drain came loose from below).
- Inspect your tires slowly and carefully and for dually rear sets check the rubber grommet is seated properly holding your inflator in place so it doesn't beat it to death like happened to mine nearly splitting the side open. Cause was using a too heavy TST flow thru tire sensor. I will never own flow thru sensors again, not needed!
- Is your dryer vent line clean?
- Inspect behind washer/dryer for leaks
- Inspect under sinks for leaks and unwelcome guests
- Clean your air conditioner filters by pulling down the panels opposite the hinge (they're magnetic latches) and removing/washing the filters if yours have the same as mine needing this maintenance
- House filter(s) in the wet bay. Are you being disgusting or are you being cheap? Keep those filters rotated out for new frequently. I do mine quarterly.