Question about weight distribution hitch

[dixiemountaineer]

Hello all! I'm new to the forum which looks to be a wealth of information. After reading through the various topics, I've already learned a few things I realized I never knew. That being said, I have a question about a weight distribution hitch.

I recently acquired a 2016 Rockwood Micro Mini Lite, just shy of 27 feet. The factory spec sheet I obtained for it states the the dry weight is 4514 lbs with a hitch weight of 625 lbs. After checking these stated weights, my actual hitch weigh is 485 lbs and that is loaded with personal effects (not much), propane tanks full, battery and all holding tanks empty. I'm towing this with a 2018 Chevy Silverado Z71 4wd and it tows quite well with no real effort that I can see from the truck and I have very minimal squat on the rear end.

On advise from a family member, I invested in a weight distribution hitch with sway control. The previous rv owner had one and I later found the springs with frame hangars/claps in a storage compartment but no drawbar/hitch head. It's the EAZ Lift brand with 1000lb springs. So, based upon the stated hitch weight of 625 before I knew the actual real hitch weight, I ordered an entirely new setup, same brand, with 1200 lb springs as I was advised that the hitch weight ideally should fall in the middle to allow some wiggle room for additional weight.

My question is, would it be preferable to use the 1000 lb springs on this 1200lb capable setup I have now or should I just stick to the new 1200lb springs. The springs are identical in size and design except for the the rv end thickness, the 1200 being bigger. I'm looking at this as the springs being interchangeable (?) in that I could use the 1000 pounders and not have a stiff ride I might have with the larger springs with a lesser tongue weight, and have the larger ones available if needed.

I hope this made sense to everyone and all advise/comments are welcome. Thanks much in advance!

Jim

 

[TJ&LadyDi]

Hi, Jim. Welcome to RVF.

I doubt that you would notice any ride difference between the two sets of springs. The weight distribution hitch just transfers some of the tongue weight forward. And, in fact, you may find a smoother ride with the weight distribution hitch than without it.

I would just go with the springs that came with the new hitch.

TJ

 

[dixiemountaineer]

Thanks, I'll just use the 1200 pound springs and see how it rides.

Another question came to mind yesterday.....

First image is the decal on my receiver hitch that does not indicate information regarding use of a WDH. The second image shows a hitch bearing a decal that does. Should I have any concern about using a WDH on my rig as it does not indicate anything about it? Am I overthinking this and am I correct in my thinking that despite no WDH info on my receiver that it will be ok? This is all new to me and want to make sure I'm set up safely and correctly both for myself and others on the road around me.

 

[NWIP]

On the first decal it is showing tongue weight of 1200# which is 10% of the total weight that can be pulled with this hitch 12,000#. Using a WDH setup doesn’t allow you to pull more than the 12,000 rating. You still might be limited by truck capacity, you didn’t state whether your truck is a 1500 or 2500, and the capacity can be found in owner’s manual.

 

[dixiemountaineer]

On the first decal it is showing tongue weight of 1200# which is 10% of the total weight that can be pulled with this hitch 12,000#. Using a WDH setup doesn’t allow you to pull more than the 12,000 rating. You still might be limited by truck capacity, you didn’t state whether your truck is a 1500 or 2500, and the capacity can be found in owner’s manual.

It's a 1500 and the 12,000# rating on the hitch exceeds what my manual states is the actual truck capacity, but I'm well within my trucks towing ability. I was mindful of that when I bought the camper due to having 3.08 gearing which limits it to 6100# max trailer weight.

Just wondering about the WDH setup on the receiver that doesn't specify any info for use with one whereas as others I've seen do as in the second picture.

 

[TJ&LadyDi]

Those are "Maximum" ratings you are looking at. Since you won't be going anywhere near maximum, you don't need to worry about it.

TJ

 

[LSG]

As far as the 1200 pound springs go just ad one more length of chain if you feel to stiff or aggressive when its responding to a hefty dip in the road but I doubt that will be needed. More complain of not enough load leveling spring than to much. If your springs are hanging to low with an added link to the chains you can change the pitch of the hitch assembly to allow for a higher spring with less spring rate as well. The way the hitch stinger angle is positioned allows for more or less spring tension while still keeping the springs parallel to the frame of the trailer or close they should not be overly low or high generally just slightly angled lower Than parallel with the eh trailer frame is what your shooting for as you achieve the right lift assist ont he tow vehicle. Its simple and complex at one time like salted chocolate

 

[dixiemountaineer]

As far as the 1200 pound springs go just ad one more length of chain if you feel to stiff or aggressive when its responding to a hefty dip in the road but I doubt that will be needed. More complain of not enough load leveling spring than to much. If your springs are hanging to low with an added link to the chains you can change the pitch of the hitch assembly to allow for a higher spring with less spring rate as well. The way the hitch stinger angle is positioned allows for more or less spring tension while still keeping the springs parallel to the frame of the trailer or close they should not be overly low or high generally just slightly angled lower Than parallel with the eh trailer frame is what your shooting for as you achieve the right lift assist ont he tow vehicle. Its simple and complex at one time like salted chocolate

Thanks much! I'm sitting level after several adjustments, checking and re-checking measurements, and the pitch is not extreme. I ended up having to use the lowest point on the drawbar and it fell right into place. Everything is tight and I'm at the 8th chain link bringing the springs level to the trailer frame. Did a low speed test tow around the farm yesterday and all seems well. Had the wife drive while I rode in the bed and watched everything. Aside from the creaking noise from the sway control which unnerved her, everything seems fine. Now to see how it does on the open road at highway speed.

 

[Gronk]

Check your owners manual!! Most trucks are rated for xx,000 pounds, BUT there is a statement in most manuals about the frontal size of the trailer. Weight does not take into consideration the wind resistance with a TT.

 

[Kevin D Pem]

I get it. You want to know the possible problem using the weight dist hitch. The weights may vary I see the label. One label gives enough info to confuse and one not enough.

When you spend some time to try and understand it comes down to if the truck can haul the load but fails to be able to handle 10% of the trailer weight on the hitch clarity comes from data enough to consider a weight leveling hitch to handle the tong weight that would other wise not be able to handle with hitch capacity. the V-5 tells it all both hitches are the same model.

Put another way No equalizer=max hauling weight 5000lbs trailer, with equalizer= max 10500 lbs trailer. This is hitch capacity not truck capacity. Remember they are the same V-5 hitch.