Welcome to RVForums.com

  • Register now and join the discussion
  • Friendliest RV Community on the web
  • Modern site for PC's, Phones, Tablets - no 3rd party apps required
  • Ask questions, help others, review campgrounds
  • Get the most out of the RV Lifestyle
  • Invite everyone to RVForums.com and let's have fun
  • Commercial/Vendors welcome

Question How does a Surge Protector work?

Welcome to RVForums.com

  • Register now and join the discussion
  • Modern secure site, no 3rd party apps required
  • Invite your friends and let's have fun
  • Commercial/Vendors welcome
  • Friendliest RV community on the web
Status
Not open for further replies.

Joe Hogan

RVF Supporter
Joined
Nov 3, 2019
Messages
2,730
Location
Florida
RV Year
2024
RV Make
Newmar
RV Model
Dutch Star 4311
RV Length
43
Chassis
Spartan
Engine
Cummins
TOW/TOAD
2018 Ford Flex
Fulltimer
No
We elected to install a transfer switch with a surge protector in the CanyonStar. Surge Guard 40350. Good protection and convenient, was my thought.
The higher end surge protects check for all manner of miswired, odd current, and other miscellaneous electrical issues. All good things.

However in my case, if the surge protector that is built into my transfer switch has to protect against a surge in voltage, the fuse in the Surge Protector will fail. This protects my RV electrical equipment by stopping the current.

Once the fuse fails, no electricity will pass through the transfer box until it is replaced or rebuilt. This could be a major issue if we need generator or park power on an extended trip.

Does it now makes sense to purchase an additional surge protector to put inline with the 50 amp cord to protect the transfer switch? Or is this just too many layers of defense.

A Belt and Suspender guy.

 
If there is someone with too many surge protectors that is me. I have the Progressive SSP-50XL at the pedestal which I like because is gives me colored lights that tell me if the pedestal is wired properly and also first line of defense before it messes with internally mounted protection. This hopefully protects the cord reel as others have had them fry. After the cord reel is a hard wired Progressive HW50C. I didn't realize my ATS had the surge guard in it, had I known that I probably would not have installed the HW50C but I guess it can't hurt. I also have the Hughes AutoFormer installed in the cord reel bay but I don't think it's the model that has the surge protection.
 
@JoeHogan @redbaron … All I have is the Progressive Industries HW50C Hardwired EMS installed ahead of the transfer switch. The EMS has the by-pass switch incase it gets fried. I do understand that my 50 amp cord back to the pedestal is not protected which is my weak point. The one thing I try to do is not spin the cord reel once I have power going through the cord. I think that action is one of the things that has caused cord reels to go bad because the electrical contact points/tabs in the reel short out. Think I remember redbaron posting that once.

FLSteve
 
When a pole in RV park was hit with lightning the surge hit my Progressive 50 EMS at the pedestal and arched about 18 inches from the case of the Progressive back to the pedestal leaving. a large burn spots. I will always use some sort of surge protector at the pedestal hoping the arching will at the pedestal and not inside my coach in my electrical bay right next to a fuse box and transfer switch.
 
When a pole in RV park was hit with lightning the surge hit my Progressive 50 EMS at the pedestal and arched about 18 inches from the case of the Progressive back to the pedestal leaving. a large burn spots.

That’s scary to think about. I had assumed that my interior direct wired Progressive would just ‘absorb’ it or something. Hate to have to spend more money to put something on the pedestal. I wonder if there is a cheap sacrificial thing I can connect, and still leave my Interior Progressive connected?
 
While it is a lot more convenient to have the surge suppressor mounted in the electrical bay, there are enough down-sides to keep me from doing so. Regardless of what you use and how you use it, there needs to something effective at the power post. The PI SSP 50XL linked by JoeHogan (above) is the minimum I would use at the power post. And, at just over a hundred bucks, it won't break the bank.

As for lightning strikes, NOTHING will soak up a nearby strike; just too much power. When I notice lightning anywhere in the area, I ALWAYS unplug the power cord.

TJ
 
Out of curiosity, @TJ&LadyDi , will you run the Genset in place of shore power until the lightning subsides?
 
Out of curiosity, @TJ&LadyDi , will you run the Genset in place of shore power until the lightning subsides?
If I need to, but most lightning events only last an hour or two and we are an all-electric coach, so can run a full day on the batteries/inverter (with a little common sense) before needing to use the generator.

I disconnect to get away from any direct connection to the power grid. A lightning strike on a power pole 5 miles away still has the potential to deliver a huge surge at the park power pedestal.

TJ
 
Last edited:
I can vouch for that. Lived in an old house many moons ago and a car hit an electric pole nearby and knocked out a transformer. According to my insurance estimator, the resultant surge ended up frying the high limit switch on my furnace and later that night I had to get out of the house fairly quickly as the furnace overheated, chard my floor joists that were over it and eventually tripped the fire alarm with the resultant smoke. Scary stuff. Electricity finds the path of least resistance.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Latest resources

Back
Top