Ventana shower issue

[Dmduffer]

Replaced the shower valve but now some faucets and the toilets make a noise from the wall in the shower. Sounds like it’s hitting the shower wall. Any ideas?

 

[Rich W.]

If the piping is thumping against the shower wall the only solution is to dig back in there and try to secure it better. I still haven’t done this improvement yet; what valve make/model did you use, and are you satisfied with it?

 

[Notsotalltexan]

I have spoken with outer Newmar owners who have the same shower valve issues. Mixing hot and cold water to find a good temp is very difficult. If you're off just a smidge, you can burn yourself or, the water's just warm. Is that why you're replacing it. I too would like to know where you got it and it you like it, other than it causing a racket.

 

[Rich W.]

This is what I bought for mine after some lengthy discussions a couple years ago on ”that other forum” about it, but I never installed it because it differs from the recommended one, which was out of stock. The nice thing about this one is that it has a tub filler outlet that I could use to return cold water to the fresh tank while waiting for hot water, but I don’t boondock much these days so that probably isn't worth the hassle. If I use this valve I’ll likely just cap the tub supply outlet.

 

[Rich W.]

Here’s a link to the discussion at that other place - I hate to post anything from there but it was a good discussion, so….Skip to posts 19 and 47 to save some time.

Question about the Ventana shower control - iRV2 Forums

My 16 VT shower lever is EXTREMELY sensitive. We bought new and it has always been that way. Tiny movements of the handle are needed otherwise you will get extreme temperature variations. This does

www.irv2.com

 

[Dmduffer]

If the piping is thumping against the shower wall the only solution is to dig back in there and try to secure it better. I still haven’t done this improvement yet; what valve make/model did you use, and are you satisfied with it?

I got the Gabrylly replacement kit. I didn’t need all the parts, just the valve and I changed out the shower head. The item number was NB6206BN and I got it on Amazon. It was fairly easy to replace and the cartridge is ceramic and not plastic like the last one.

 

[Neal]

The nice thing about this one is that it has a tub filler outlet that I could use to return cold water to the fresh tank while waiting for hot water,

Are you sure about that? I'd think that's a one way output for tub fill.

 

[Dmduffer]

It’s exactly like the one I took out of my rig.

 

[Rich W.]

Are you sure about that? I'd think that's a one way output for tub fill.

it is but why couldn’t that be connected to a new line plumbed to return to the fresh tank? Just like filling a tub. Somewhat mute anyway because I’ve decided its not worth the trouble and I’ll just cap it. I’ve been re-reading that other thread - interesting stuff, especially the seven stitches!

Other than that Neal, does the valve in my pic look like it will mount properly as a direct replacement? Looking at the pics in post 47, it appears that the valve just hangs on the plumbing and is secured by the face plate. The mounting holes dont appear to be used. Is that correct?

edit: I just saw post 50 and I think that answers my question:
“I wish I would have taken a picture...see those four screw holes? There is a metal plate Newmar installed that is actually used to push the regulator back to simulate wall thickness and filler as they use a large hole for easy access. You'll need to use the thin wall spacer which also serves to push the regulator back otherwise your lever will stick too far out on the shower side. So when you install the regulator it will be from back to front: regulator, spacer that comes with regulator, metal plate screwed into wall, fixture.”

I’ve installed these before in new residential construction, but didn’t know what Newmar did to make them work on a coach.

 

[Neal]

Expensive mod with the ER visit

I wouldn't install a four way but I'm not a plumber and don't understand it. I'd get one that's no tub outlet and shower only.

 

[Rich W.]

a brass cap and seal were provided with the valve to cap the tub supply if needed.

Also, I know its a little late, but that black plastic top hat looking thing is just to set the depth of the valve in new construction, depending on wall thickness. After that you throw it away. I found this pic of the Newmar solition:

 

[Notsotalltexan]

I found an "Open Box" Moen 82604SRN Spot Resist Brushed Nickel Finish Adler One Handle Shower Faucet on eBay just now for $70 and bought it. Dang I love this forum!

 

[Chuggs]

Amazon.com

Neal turned us on to the Moen Adler a very long time ago. The pressure compensating valve kept temperature well regulated while showering... vs. the Cold Hot...and constantly trying to adjust the temperature while showering.

Recently, we had a random water pump cycle... I know that is a sign of a leak somewhere. Then Ronni, whose ears still work properly, complained that the shower head was dripping ever so often. I purchased a replacement cartridge kit...and swapped out the core of the fixture. No more drips, water pump only comes on when we open a sink or shower valve...and the handle turns freely...like butter!

I will have to say...it can be frustrating ordering parts from Amazon. I ordered a plastic cartridge kit...and I kept getting kit's missing parts. I would send them back and order another. I still don't have a plastic cartridge kit. I ordered the HD kit...and it had all the parts. But, in the end ...I got the cartridge installed and everything is working perfectly.

So, if any of you long time Moen Adler fans are out there...and noticed the handle is kinda difficult to turn, or your shower head is dripping. This is a quick fix

 

[Neal]

Good to know! Thanks for the info.