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2014 - 33’ Forrest river georgetown rocking

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Broken "sway bar" brackets are a known issue on F-53 chassis.
And "Yes" it will allow what the "OP" stated to happen.
In another Forum, there is a Ford chassis group, which addresses it, & also an available "cure" for it.
The brackets need to be checked for tightness, just like slide motor bolts.
Good Luck!
 
I disagree, Rich. A sway bar reduces exactly what the OP is complaining about. It allows for softer spring rates (better ride) with more stability.
The torsion on the sway bar equalizes some of the offset weight to the spring on the other side of the “sway”, i.e. the outside of the turn. They do the same thing in crosswinds, centrifugal force or any condition that will shift weight side to side.
Well I was bound to be wrong eventually. However these sway bars (anti-sway bars) are neutral when sitting level and not in a turn or wind, and given the OPs description “whenever i get up over 60 or so”, it didn’t seem like this would be the culprit, or at least not the entire problem.

My point was to look for additional damage as well. If the problem went away with a new clamp, great! If not, I’d get the coach on a rack. Maybe @Forrestrivertodd will return and tell us, but since we haven’t heard from him in over two months, that was probably all it was - nice cheap fix.

I’ve hit some ugly RR crossings too and now I nearly come to a stop even if they look smooth. Usually they are, but once in a while I hit one that looked ok but would have caused a hard hit on my suspension if I were going any faster.
 
Broken "sway bar" brackets are a known issue on F-53 chassis.
And "Yes" it will allow what the "OP" stated to happen.
In another Forum, there is a Ford chassis group, which addresses it, & also an available "cure" for it.
The brackets need to be checked for tightness, just like slide motor bolts.
Good Luck!
I did the “cheap handling fix” (from that other forum) on my F53 (2010 Bay Star) but used Helwig adjustable links on the front and my front links on the rear to maintain OE geometry. It worked out well, but at one point I lost a bolt in one of the link ends and while handling wasn’t as good, it didn’t cause anything near the problems that the OP had. It still handled ok even on winding, crowned back roads. Hence my suggestions - I’d probably still do this:
95B0934E-2170-4AFA-B666-54CE895C1D20.jpeg
 
The found problem and symptom right after the hard hit don't make sense to me either. If the anti-sway bar is keeping that from happening, something else is wrong. Shocks, alignment, tire balance, tire pressure, spring mounts, and relatively equal side to side weight distribution all need to be checked. Even a broken belt in a tire can allow the tread to look like a camshaft creating such a symptom.
 

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